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1  2  3 


1  2  3 

4  5  6 


NE 


LIEU' 


s 


/ 

KNGINEER  DEPARTMENT,  UNITED  STATES  ARMY. 


PRELIMINAKY    REPORT 


OF 


EXPLORATIONS 


IN 


NEBRASKA   AND   DAKOTA, 


IN  TlIK 


VE.VR8    1855-^■)()-^■37, 


IJY 


LIEUT,  (i.  K.  WAKIIEN,  TOrOGIlAPlIICAL  ENGINEERS,  U.  S.  ARMY, 

[N'OW  MAJOR  or  EN'ilNEF.Iifl,  AND   IIVT.  MA.IOI!  GEXIlItAI,,  f.  S.  A.] 


REPRINT 


N 


washingto:n^: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE, 

1875. 


Note— This  report  was  originally  luinteil  in  tbe  appendixes  to  the 
Eoport  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  in  the  President's  Message  and  Docu- 
ments, December,  1858. 

The  map  was  printed  by  resohition  of  the  United  States  Senate. 


Office  of  the  Chief  of  Engineers, 

Washhujton,  L.  C,  August  18,  1875. 

SiH :  In  1857  an  exploration  of  the  Black  Hills  was  made  by  Lieut.  G. 
K.  Warren,  Topographical  Engineers,  (now  major  of  engineers,  and 
brevet  major-general  United  States  Army.) 

A  preliminary  report  of  this  exploration  (embracing  also  liis  explora- 
tions in  ISTebraska  and  Dakota  for  the  two  previous  years,  18o5-'5G)  was 
appended  to  my  annual  report,  as  captain  of  Topographical  Engineers  in 
charge  of  oflice  of  explorations  and  surveys  for  the  War  Department 
for  the  year  1858.  ' 

As  this  report  was  printed  with  the  documents  accompanying  the 
President's  annual  message  to  Congress  in  December  1858,  (in  the  an- 
nual report  of  the  Secretary  of  AVar,)  it  can  always  be  referred  to  for 
olhcial  purposes,  but  is  not  accessible  to  those  specially  interested  in  the 
region  of  which  it  treats. 

Kecent  developments  in  the  Black  Hills  country  have  awakened  a 
great  interest  in  that  region,  and  there  are  constant  inquiries  for  the 
report  referred  to. 

I  would  therefore  recommend  that  this  report  be  reprinted  at  the 
Government  Printing-office,  and  that  2,000  copies  be  furnished  to  this 
Office,  upon  the  usual  requisition. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

A.  A.  Humphreys, 

rr       TUT      -rr.   r,  Brigadier-Oeneval  ttud  Chief  of  Enginccrs. 

Hon.  Wm.  W  .  Belknap, 

Secretary  of  IFar. 


Approved  by  order  of  the  Secretary  of  War. 
August  20, 1875. 


H.  T.  Crosby, 

Chief  ClerTc. 


I 


1 1 


If 


War  Department,  Office  Explorations  and  Surveys, 

Washington,  Korember  20,  1858. 

•  *  *  *  #  *  « 

explorations  in  NEBRASKA. 

T  i J,?<-^  r^^T  w'  ^'^''^i?'"'"  '•''1.^^,  the  expedition  commanded  bv 
Lieut.  G.  K.  ^\arreu,  Topographical  Engineers,  after  the  successful 
execution  of  the  duties  ntrusted  to  him  ol"  reconnaissance  and  exE^^ 
tion  n  Nebraska,  has  been  already  reported.  The  maps  have  been 
completed  all  the  necessary  calculations  of  the  astronomical  and  hlZ 

Sot'  o?  th'/Iv  ;^  rr"'^*^'  "^^  the  reports  in  relation  to  the  dmereut 
objects  ot  the  expedition  are  in  an  advanced  state. 

v<.,Tfi^^""f•^w''^'J^''5•  ""^'^^^  expedition  were  to  ascertain  the  best 
route  by  which  to  continue  to  the  South  Pass  the  militarv  road  nnvr 
constructing  from  the  Mississippi  Eiver  to  Sioux  Citv  on  the  Mi  soZT 
?M-xtte  '^n^lZZ  J^^^«"r««tion  the  valley  of  the  Loup  Folk  of  he 
tl  ;  R^LpT  mnf  f  the  Niobrara,  aiid  to  make  such  reconnaissance  of 

vonhl  nprmi/  t'  ^T^  ^^^  '^IV'^?'  f  ^^"  ^*»  Cheyenne,  as  circumstances 
vAOuld  permit,  to  determine  their  character,  especially  with  reference  to 
the  future  military  operations  that  may  be  carried  on  in  this  Terri?ory^ 
of  tf pTf  ^'1"'^'  *^i'''  ^^J""^''  ^^^  expedition  would  obtain  informatTon 
ot  the  character  and  resources  of  the  country,  its  adaptability  to  settle- 
ment  and  cultivation,  and  would  develop  its  geography  S  geoWy 

plSll'/XrmeT^"^''  ^^'"^^^^^  ^^  -hich^fre  Uviouslf  ite?. 
The  preliminary  report  of  Lieutenant  Warren  is  herewith  presented 
The  routes  reconiioitered  and  mapped  in  1857  are  from  Sioux  City  t"  the 
mouth  of  Loup  Fork;  thence  up  this  stream  to  its  so^ce  in  the  Sand 
Hills ;  and  thence  by  the  Niobrara  to  Fort  Laramie.    From  tl  is  pZ 
the  party  proceeded  north,  and  carefully  examined  the  Black  H  Is  aid 
re  urning  to  the  Niobrara,  explored  this  stream  to  its  juuctU  "iV^^^^^ 
Missouri ;  aiid  also  a  route  from  the  mouth  of  Turtle  Hill  Eiver  to  Fort 
Eandjill.    Finally,  the  road  from  Fort  Eandall  to  Sioi^x  Cit/vv^is  sur- 

With  the  report  on  these  routes  Lieutenant  Warren  combines  that  of 

M^'Jh?  f '  ''^""""!^  ^^^  ^^"^  ^"  1^^^'  ""^e^-  orders  from  Se  al  Harne? 
Tn  thn.     """'r^'^".'  "^  ^'"l^^^t  has  heretofore  been  presented  ^' 

from  th«  «S  T^^  ?  ''^''^^^^  reconnaissacce  of  the  Missouri  Eiver, 
Siemouth  of  tL"  ^.^r."^^7  ^*  ^^hv^f:x  to  a  point  sixty  miles  aiove 
iJive?  Yellowstone,  and  of  this  latter  strea^n  to  Powder 


b  EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 

The  routes  explored,  inclmling  those  of  1858,  (of  which  a  rei)ort  has 
been  rendered  aud  printed,)  all  lie  east  of  the  lOdth  meridian.  They 
lead  once  thronfjh  the  Sand  Hills  north  and  sontli,  and  twice  east  anil 
west,  almost  aronnd  the  l>lack  IJills,  and  thron<jfh  the  valleys  of  the 
following  rivers,  viz:  the  Platte,  Lonp  Fork,  Niobrara,  White  Earth, 
Big  Cheyenne,  Missonri,  Yellowstone,  and  James  rivers. 
The  accompanying  re])ort  of  Lieutenant  Warren  is  divided  as  follows: 
Part  1  is  a  statement  of  the  routes  pursued  and  main  incidents  which 
affected  their  direction  and  extent;  and  in  connection  with  this  are 
given  the  obiections  urged  by  the  Dakotas  against  the  passage  of  the 
expedition  through  the  Territory.  This  may  prove  valuable  to  any 
white  men  that  may  travel  there. 

Part  2  contains  a  general  description  of  the  surface  of  Nebraska ;  an 
account  of  the  general  structure  of  the  country;  its  principal  geological 
formations  and  the  character  of  the  soil ;  aud  its  adaptability  in  differ- 
ent parts  to  settlement. 

It  contirms  the  statements  heretofore  made  by  explorers  in  other  por- 
tions of  the  western  prairies  of  the  generally'  sterile  character  of  the 
lauds  west  of  the  90th  meridian,  attributable  to  the  absence  of  fertile 
elements  in  the  soil  in  large  tracts  like  the  Sand  llill  region,  and  to  the 
want  of  timely  rains. 

The  section  in  the  mountains  bordering  these  plains  on  the  west  is 
described  as  containing  small  fertile  valleys,  with  streams  of  water  and 
an  abundance  of  building  material,  botli  of  stone  and  wood,  aud  an 
ample  supply  of  the  latter  for  fuel.  The  opinion  is  expressed  that  this 
section  will  be  overspread  by  considerable  settlements. 

Part  3  contains  a  general  description  of  the  rivers  and  routes  through 
the  Territory,  with  a  discussion  of  the  question  as  to  the  best  route  by 
which  to  supply  Fort  Laramie  and  the  interior.  The  conclusions  ar- 
rived at  in  regard  to  this  last  question  are,  that  the  route  up  the  Loup 
Fork  is  impracticable,  and,  besides,  is  less  direct  than  the  Platte  route ; 
that  the  route  along  the  aSTiobrara  is  barely  practicable  for  wagons,  and 
that  the  difficulties  to  be  met  with  on  the  road,  together  with  the  in- 
creased river  transportation  of  the  route,  render  it  less  favorable  than 
that  up  the  Platte,  whether  the  starting-point  be  Omaha  City  or 
Nebraska  City ;  that  a  road  from  Sioux  City  to  Fort  Laramie,  along  the 
Niobrara,  would  only  be  about  forty  miles  shorter  than  a  road  proceed- 
ing from  the  same  point  direct  to  the  Platte,  at  the  mouth  of  Loup 
Fork,  and  thence  along  the  Platte  route  to  Fort  Laramie ;  that  the 
shorter  length  of  the  Niobrara  route  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by 
the  great  difficulties  on  that  route,  and  therefore  the  route  along  the 
Platte  is  the  better  of  the  two ;  that  the  route  from  the  mouth  of  White 
Eiver  west  to  Fort  Laramie  is  probably  practicable,  and  superior  to  that 
along  the  Niobrara;  that  the  route  from  Fort  Pierre  to  Fort  Laramie  is 
likewise  superior  to  the  Niobrara  route,  but  that  the  increased  river 
transportation  and  absence  of  settlements  along  this  part  of  the  Mis- 
souri liiver  render  these  routes  at  present  inferior  to  those  of  the  Platte 
Valley ;  that  above  Fort  Pierre,  on  the  navigable  part  of  the  Missouri 
Eiver,  there  are  no  routes  leading  from  it  to  Fort  Laramie  or  the  South 
Pass  that  are  as  advantageous  as  those  enumerated.  It  is  further  con- 
cluded that,  of  all  the  routes  explored,  the  Platte  Valley  is  the  best 
adapted  for  locating  a  railroad  to  connect  the  settlements  to  be  formed 
in  the  mountains  with  those  along  the  Missouri  River ;  and  that,  as  a 
national  route  for  a  Pacilic  railroad,  leading  to  the  South  Pass  or  to 
Bridger's  Pass,  it  is  superior  to  any  other  in  this  latitude.  These  con- 
clusions appear  to  be  fully  su.staiued  by  the  facts  advanced  in  their 
support. 


1  a  report  lias 
ridian.  They 
wice  east  ami 
/alleys  of  the 
White  Earth, 

ed  as  follows: 
cjidents  which 
with  this  are 
lassage  of  the 
uable  to  auy 

!?ebra8ka;  an 
pal  geological 
ility  in  differ- 
in  other  por- 
xacter  of  the 
5uce  of  fertile 
m,  and  to  the 

a  the  west  is 
of  water  and 
i^ood,  and  an 
jsed  that  this 

lutes  through 
best  route  by 
nclusious  ar- 

up  the  Loup 
Platte  route ; 

wagons,  and 
'  with  the  iu- 
vorable  than 
laha  City  or 
lie,  along  the 
•oad  proceed- 
)uth  of  Loup 
lie;  that  the 
•balanced  by 
te  along  the 
uth  of  White 
)erior  to  that 
rt  Laramie  is 
ireased  river 
t  of  the  Mis- 
of  the  Platte 
the  Missouri 
or  the  South 
;  further  con- 
y  is  the  best 
to  be  formed 
id  that,  as  a 
I  Pass  or  to 
These  con- 
cod  in  thtir 


EXl'LORATIOXS   IN   NEBRASKA    AND    DAKOTA.  ^ 

The  tth  part  of  the  report  treats  Of  the  Indian  tribes,  their  number 
location,  .Vc.    An  ai)proximate  estimate  of  their  strength  is  made,  an« 
routes  by  which  to  operate  against  them,  in  the  event  of  hostilities,  u^ 
discussed.    Almost  every  part  of  the  country  examined  is  nraeticab  e 
lor  the  operatmns  of  cavalry;  and  routes  practicable  for   he'^^i^rsT^" 
a  military  expedition  can  generally  be  found,  even  in  the  Jilack  Ilills 
to  such  points  as  would  be  used  as  depots  from  which  sunnlies  for  hripf 
periods  could  be  furnished  for  military  movements        ''"^  ^*"''*  ^"'  ^"®* 
The  5th  part  of  Lieutenant  Warren's  rei>ort  is  a  brief  statement  of 
the  meteorological  phenomena  of  the  country,  as  observed    E"  the 
explorations;  the  most  prominent  facts  respecting  which  are  the  ex 
treme  variableness  of  the  phenomena  of  moisture  and  tempera  urel 
facts  which  confirm  previous  statements  in  regard  to  them. 

The  report  contains  a  catalogue  of  the  fossils  collected,  with  the 
ocalities  of  the  specimens,  and  similnr  lists  of  the  plants  and  the  cof 
lections  in  the  different  departments  of  .oology.    All  these  collections 
were  made   without  interfering  with  the  niore  in.iuLlLL  i   acS 
objects  ot  the  ext>lorations,  and  reflect  credit  on  the  labors  of  Leu 
euan    Warren  and  his  assistants.    These  collections  are  esteemed  to 
be  ot  high  scientihc  value ;  and  among  the  discoveries  due  to  the  labors 
n  •  lu  T^''-?'}'"'''  '^'^  ^^'^  discovery  of  the  Potsdam  sandstone,  the  oldest 
ot  the  tossihterous  rocks  in  the  Black  Hills,  the  first  positive  proof  of 
the  existence  in  America  of  the  formation  correspond  ng  to  the  Juras 
n    H.  Pr""^'"'  ""''^  ^.^^  discovery  on  the  Niobra4  of  a  new  fomat'on 
ot  the  Pliocene  Tertiary,  containing  the  remains  of  an  extinct  fa  inn 
resembling  that  now  inhabiting  Asia,  from  whicVat  least    hfrtj^t wo 
distinct  spec.es  of  vertebrates  have  been  described  by  Professoi  Leidy! 
Ihe  principal  of  these  results  have  been  published,  by  perm^sion  of 
of  P^iifflnhfi' ' V^'  proceedings  of  the  Academy  if  Natural  Sciences 
ot  Philadelphia.    Accompanying  one  of  these  papers,  prepared  bv  Dr. 
Haydeu,  is  a  small  geological  map  of  Nebraska.  ^ 

A  military  map  of  Nebraska  and  Dakota,  on  a  scale  of  ^^J nre- 

pared  by  Lieutenant  Warren,  and  ordered  to  be  engraved  ^ftheSen^ate 
at  Its  last  session,  is  now  ready  for  publication 

thrsoun^?  nf'?rViif  ^^P^«^^tion  of  the  interior  of  Nebraska,  about 
mn«t  oE  f  ^^  Yellowstone,  Lieutenant  Warren  thinks  could  be 
most  advantageously  and  economically  made  by  an  expedition  organ 

el?  mates  at  ^00  000  "'ti*^'  ^T'  l"  '^f  ^1^'  ^"^^  ^^''^''  «*"  ^^^'^^ 
htn  ?» T  ?•  ^^^^^^9'  This  exploration  has  been  a  favorite  object  with 
him,  and  his  previous  experience,  and  his  knowledge  of  the  Indians 

'with  eSmy  ''''''"^'^'  '^"""^'^  ^"""^^^  ^'"^  **"  accomplish  the  work 

in(^n^fP<1^'ti•^'K''^'^^^^^'"'^""''  ?^bich  the  explorations  heretofore 
Iffl  ,m^.  «,ui  "i  ^""'^^  ^^^"  conducted,  under  many  embarrassments, 
the  taik.  ^^^"gers,  prove  him  to  be  peculiarly  well  qualified  fo^ 

report?^'''"^'^  ^'^'''"  ^''''  ^^^  execution  of  the  work  will  be  found  in  the 


n:; 


;  i: 


i  i 


lU 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  ^^EBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


rRKLlMINARY    IfKl'ORT    OF    LIEUT.     (;.     K.    WARREN.     TDPOGRArillCAL 
E.N(;iNHKK,S.    T(.     CAPT.    A.    A.     irUMl'MREVS.    TOi'oViRAl'HIUAI      ENOI 
NEEKM,  I.V  cirAU(;E  OF  OFFICE  OF  EXI'LORATIONH  AND  SURVEYS  VVAU 
DEl'AUTMENT.  oi^uvi^io,  WAU 


Wasiiinoton,  D.  C,  November  24,  1858. 

CAPTAIN :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  nroliininarv 

/.rtTrnx"^!-..  'l8r!r>"  -r  -y'"  explorations  condncted  by  n.e  i!i  Nebra«kJ 
in  the  >f'a. 8  1 855,- 50,-'o < .    Thi8  rei)ort  is  divided  as  follows  : 

and  extent-*^'*  explored,  and  main  ineidents  alfectinff  their  direction 

2a.  Physical  Reography  of   Nebraska,  character  of   the  soil,  and 
resources  ot  the  country ;  ' 

.{(1.  Itemarks  upon  the  climate  and  meteorology  • 
,   ^^!';  \  «;ef  ription  of  the  principal  rivers,  and  discussion  of  the 
merits  ot  dilk'rent  routes ;  and 

5th.  An  enumeration  of  the  Indian  tribes,  military  posts,  and  routes 
for  nnlitary  operations.  j  i    ""  >  luuius 

r  (uui  fX  'l*"'^- ''  •Vl"*^'-^^*^.  '^  «'"»»  "i«P  «f  Nebraska  on  a  scale  of  1  to 
0,0(0,000,  showing  the  main  physical  features  of  the  country  and  the 
routes  re.,u.ring  lurther  examination,  as  well  as  those  already  exX^^^^^^^^ 
The  re|)oit  is  accompanied  by  catalogues  of  the  paleontololnca     min 
eralogical,  botanu.al,  and  z<,ological  specimens  collecte     o  ^ourexplo- 
rations    prepared  by  Dr.  F.  V.  Ilayden,  so  as  to  show  the   ocaSs 
where  they  were  found.    Much  useful  instruction  as  to  th^num  ler  of 
naking  meteorological  observations  and  collecting  specimens  i,  iSa 
h  s  ory  Avas  given  to  us  by  the  officers  of  the  Smithsonian  Inst   it  on 
s  1  ;L  oniT!''r^^'  l^^'«*f  «f  ,JI«'"y,f»i"i«l'ed  us  with  rooms  in  whS 
stole  the  collections  and  elaborate  the  results.    A  brief  report  bv  Dr 

"  r  iiiiisr  '^^^"'  ^^  '""^  ^^^^^^  ^-^"^  '^^  cSSit^u^u 

tivlw^inntin^'Zv  i^,"f  ^^''•'^Y  to  defer  to  a  subsequent  report  tlie  narra- 
h  sf  atio  f  R?.  i^^'^r"^?'  ^''?  complete  maps,  profiles,  and  other 
of  m!.  '^         ;        tables  ot  meteorological  observations,  and  the  results 
ot  our  collec  ions  and  observations  in  geologv,  botany,  &c. 

misXn  of  tho  ^^"^  T^^'  ^y'''''  '^'''^'^y  been  "published  by  per- 
1.  J..  Meek,  and  J)r.  Joseph  Leidy,  before  the  Academy  of  Naturil 
Sciences  of  Phi  ade  phia.    A  letter' prepared  by  me  for^l^  IIo„    G 

bv\  sm'll^ln;;T^4?^'""*^' *^^^"  -r^^  ^^^"  l*"^^''^^-^^^'  accomi^ied 
nL?  iTn,      V^   ■,  ^^^^'^*^^^.'»'  o"  a  seale  of  1  to  0,000,000.    This  man  has 
also  been  colored  so  as  to  indicate  approximate  y  the  geological  forma 
T'llavct'in  fh^'l^r  *'  ?»^"«^«^-ith  oneof  fhe  pa?>ers  ^aSri^ 
Philadelphia  ^^«««^e^^"g8  ot  tlie  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  ot 

hv'^+i!!!'?!  V  "PJ^f^Plor^^tions  in  Nebraska  was  ordered  to  be  engraved 
re^iv%y";>^';^i.^i"'''  ^?'^^^'  ^^""°S-  tl'«  J'-^^t  session,  and  ifnow  nearly 
St\'fvK,^/4'^^'",^^^^  In  preparing  this  map  I  availed  myself  of  all 
...i^iorar.ouo  and  surveys  witam  the  limits  comprised  by  it,  (in- 


I!    I 


m 


10 


i:XI'L.)I,'ATIONS    IX   NFMRASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


rluiliii;-    tliiLs  Noiiic  Into  iiii|ml)lislM'(l  maps  kindly  ftiniislicd  from  tlio 
liilt'iior    I)('|»iirfiii('iil,)   ill)  iickiio\vl('(l«;iiioiil,    of  iill  of  which  is  iiiado 
thcn'oii.     1 1  was  .u'ccssiiry  to  iiidicatf  on  this  Miap  a  (!onsi«leral)I^i  por- 
tion (if  Mm  couulry  not  cxaniini'd  by  mo  in  onh-r  to  j^ivc  it  thci  «real(\st 
in-iictifal  valiif,  and  to  show  thr  relation  of  the  parts  I  havo  (•x[>lor(Ml 
to  thosl^  snrronndin^-  them.     ."My  (h'si<-ii  was  to  mako  tho  map  a  com- 
plett)  rrpnsontafion  of  all  tlio  rt';>ion  occupied  by  tlio  J)akotas,  and  the 
best  routes  by  whicii  to  ai)pr()a(^ii  and  traverse  it,  and  ah»n^'  wliich  to 
coiKhict  mihtary  operations  to  the  best  advantage;  in  other  words,  to 
make  it  a  ♦'  Military  Map  of  N»a>raska  and  Dakota,"  whicih  is  Mie  title  I 
have^'ivei:  it.     •'.  is  on  a  scale  of  I  to  I,L'(m,(H)(),  and  embraces  all  tho 
country  from  tin-  !)Hh  to  the  I  (Kith  meridnm,  between  the.'Wth  and  T.Oth 
parallels.     In  iis  northeast  corner  is  the  liake  of  the  Woods,  in   tho 
southeast  Fort  Leavenworth,  in  the  southwest  Pike's  Peak,  and  in  tho 
northwest  the  Junction  of  Milk  Iliver  with  the  Missouri.     A  number  of 
rivers  art^  put  down  on  this  map  which  have  \u\vvv  yet  been  explored, 
except  at  their  moullis  ;  these  are  th<^  Knife  Uiver,  Heart  liiver,  Camion 
Hall  Kiver,  and  Moreau  Kiver.     As  the  expeditions  under  mvi^onnuand 
have  innuy  almost  around    the  section  throuf-h  which   they  How,   and 
<h  termiued  with  a  yreat  decree  of  ct  rtainty  that  it  is  an  open  prairie, 
and  have  ;;aine«l  sonu<  knowledjie  of  their  "len<>ths  and  directions  from 
the  Indians,  they  aie  probably  represented  witli  a  considerable  decree 
ot  exactness. 

On  the  small  map  acctunpanyinji' this  r<>port  the  southern  branches 
of  the  Yellowstone  Kiver  have  also  been  represented  with  an  approxi- 
nu»ti(Ui  to  correctness,  by  usinj--  information  furnished  by  the  expedi- 
tUMis  of  Captains  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  Ca|)tain  lUmneville,  and  also 
troia  sk(^tches,  Cvc,  obtained  by  me  from  traders  and  trappers.  This 
section  of  country,  however,  has  much  pracf.  d  importance  in  relation 
to  routes  throujjh  it  by  which  to  reach  Utah  from  tho  naviijablo  parts 
ot  the  .Missouri  -mil  Yellowstone,  and  deserves  a  uiorouj;h  exi)loration. 
Ihis  (examination  I  have  always  luul  a  «reat  desire  to  make,  and  in  my 
previous  expeditions  have  taken  much  pains  t(»  ascertairi  tho  best  meaiis 
ot  conductin«;'  it.  In  this  I  have  been  fortunate  in  meeting  with  Mr. 
.lames  Urid^er,  ,Mr.  Alexander  Culbertson,  Mv.  Kobert  Campbell,  and 
otaeis  well  aciiuainted  with  the  character  of  the  country  from  personal 
experience,  and  have  tho  assurance  of  tho  services  of  Mr.  iirul"or  if  the 
e\|»loration  should  be  ordered. 

On  ae<H>unt  of  tl:e  {iieat  distance  of  the  region  to  be  examined  from 
the  settlements,  it  is  necessary  to  provide  the  expedition  with  the  meiiiis 
kn   remaining'  two  summers,  the  interveninj;' winter  to  bo  passed  at 
some  suitable  point  on  the  Yellowstone  or  Big  Horn  rivers.     It  would 
be  «lil1icidt  tor  an  expedition  to  do  n:ore  than  j;o  and  return  in  the  same 
seasv.ii,  so  that  then  little  or  no  time  wouUl  be  allowed  to  explore.    Tho 
country  is  prinripally  occupied   by  tho  Crow  Indians,  and,  as  I  know 
them  to   ae  frieadly,   I   think  a  military  escort  can  bo  dispensed  with, 
which  is  a  material  consideration  u.'ider  the  present  excessive  require- 
ments of  the  military  service.     The  method  I  propose  instead  is,  to  go 
well  i)rovided  with  jioods  and  presents  by  which  to  purchase  of  the  In- 
dians permission  to  pass  throiij;h  the  country,  and  to  employ  them  as 
g  tides.    In  this  way  much  expense  can  bo  prlventeil,  and,  with  prudent 
niaiia^n-inent,  i?ai'ji-r  lo  the  expeditiiui  can  oe  avoided;    besides,  valua- 
ble niformation  will  be  <;ained  from  tho   hniians  whicli  would  be  with- 
held  if  we  entered  their  «  )untry  in  a  hostile  attitude. 

The  e.vpeditiou  should  be  completely  or<iaiiized  and  equipped  for  tho 
neld  oy  the  1st  of  .May,  loaU,  and  remain  in  the  tield  uutil  the  1st  of 
December,  1800,  nineteen  mouths. 


V. 

lu'd  from  tlio 
lii(;li  is  itiiuU) 
si«leriil)I^'  por- 
t  tlici  y  real  est; 
iiivo,  ex[>loiv(l 
J  niiip  a  (;<)Mi- 
otus,  and  t\w, 
\u\\}t  which  to 
her  words,  to 
is  'he  title  I 
)ra(VH  all  tho 
JSth  and  TiOth 
^)ods,  ill  tho 
bk,  and  in  the 
A  ninnber  of 
t»ea  explored, 
tiver,  Cannon 
ni,V(;onnnand 
ey  How,  and 
open  pra'rie, 
reel  ions  from 
arable  (.lej^rec 

mil  bran  el  I  es 
an  ajjproxi- 
y  the  expedi- 
ille,  and  also 
ippers.  This 
;«:i  in  relation 
M^able  parts 
exploration. 
:e,  and  in  my 
0  best  mea!is 
inj;  with  Mr. 
anipbell,  and 
0111  personal 
Jridgor  if  the 

vniined  from 
th  the  means 
>o  passed  at 
s.  It  would 
L  la  tlie  same 
xplore.  The 
,  as  I  know 
pensed  with, 
sive  recpiire- 
oad  is,  to  go 
ISO  of  the  In- 
>loy  them  as 
vith  prudent 
sides,  valua- 
iild  be  with- 

•pod  for  the 
il  the  1st  of 


J 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEBRASKA   AND    DAKOTA.  H 

There  should  be  thirty  men,  at  $;}()  per  month,  and  eight  assistants 
Z^wfS^S'  """^"^''''^  ^'"'!^^^«'  ^^«M;it  $125  per  month.  This  would 
3       fii;  11     w»/''r^'''"'''''^l''^  ^'^'^^^  '^^"»t  $7,000.    Animals 

;  L-.oin*  A.-  ,••  ^"'^"^'»  «<>p^'«  $M)00.  Contingencies  $3,000,  To- 
tal )?(.0, 000,  Ot  this  amount  about  $35,000  would  bo  required  the  first 
year  I  he  Imlic  ot  the  stores  and  goods  required  should  be  contracted 
lor,  to  be  delivered  at  Fort  Laramie  or  tho  i'latto  Bridge. 

Ihe  expedition  itself  sliouUl  proceed  by  the  Missouri  Eivcr  to  Fort 
!  lerre,  where  the  necessary  animals  for  j.,  pack  train  should  bo  assem- 
led.     At  this  point  we  should  meet  with  some  of  the  principal  men  of 
the  Dakotas,  and  overtures    ,:,ould  bo  made  to  secure  their  assent  to 
our  proceeding  westward  up  the  Hhyenne  and  its  North  Fork,  r-nd  thence 
o  the  source  ot   I  owder  liiver,  thus  exploring  a  now  route.     ShouM 
this  consent  bo  withheld,  aiul  it  should  not  be  considered  safe  to  proceed 
without  It,  the  party  could  take  tho  route  by  way  of  White  Kiver  to 
lort  Laramio  and  thence  to  tho  source  of  Powder  Itiver.    The  exnlo- 
-ition  should  then   bo  conducted  along  Powder  liiver  to  its  mouth 
luonco  up  the  lellowstone  to  tho  mouth  of  Tongue  Kiver,  up  which 
stream  a  detachment  should  bo  sent  to  its  source     The,  remiinder  of 
the  party  should  ascend  tho  Yellowstone  to  the  mouth  of  Uig  Horn 

,ins''\vi;;:  .;'^!f     ?  ^f  A'  '^'"^'^  f^^''^  ^^^^'"^  ^^'^^'^«  ^^  >«^^^««  the  mount. 
i\.niuo  Kisser     '^"""^'^  ^"^  •''^'"*^^^   ^'^'  ^^^  detachment  which  explored 

inThiVnlilniwi''^"  ;''"'t«V'l'^"^*  '^"J"*'^  "'^  ^^^^y  *«  P^««  t^^t  season 
I  this  neighborhood,  or  it  time  sutliced,  the  expedition  might  ascend 

t     ^  V?7  ^^'''''V^^^."^  liiver,  where  a  very  favorable  wintering 
pi  CO  could  bo  found.    Either  of  these  places  would  be  sutHciently  con 
Ncnient  to  he  supplies  on  the  Platto.    Under  circumstances  not  fore- 
seen It  niig-ht  be  best  lor  tho  expedition  to  winter  near  ^ort  Laramie. 

Ihe  next  season  should  be  spent  in  examining  the  mountain  region 

ch.u"u.  i;'.r;r'''  f  *^  i^eHowstone  and  Missouri,  to  ascertaiKo 
cha  actei  ot  the  routes  leading  south  and  west  from  the  navigable  parts 
1  ;  ffl'^r' V     On  returning,  one  portion  should  descend  tho  Missouri, 
t  e  othei  the  \  el  owstone,  to  their  junction,  where  a  Mackinac  boatshould 
bt  11  remhness,  by  which  all  could  proceed  to  the  settlements. 
nvvi.i.!T  ^'-^i;  -iHtions  would  determine  the  practicability  of  all  the  routes 
In  )J.l  '*"  t«e  accompanying  map  as  deserving  examination,  and  would 
r.?in     1     T'  ^^'^•Vt>-^"^tho  part  of  those  conducting  them.    Pack 
.; !  ^^  f'f'^  •;^"'^  ^'^'  '''''''\'''^  ^^''S^'i^  «»'eatly  retard  the  operations  of  a 
T h  •^i!    !  1  ^'"•"^'•V"'^»'^  !««  the  ditliculty  of  defending  it  against  attack. 
t.,n'  !''-''  "^  ^T"" '"  '""''''  ^^'  ^^''^  ^*'«'«»  "^ould  render  it  unnecessary 
h.    n.i      /  f  "'"''^-  'l"'"'<^'f3-  of  bread  and  bacon,  which  always  make 
the  bulk  ot  the  provisions  re<piired. 

it  u'nni'*/'r?'i"'"''S^!'^  1'''^^  prepared  for  defense  against  war  parties,  and 
•mm         ^\|^'''^>^'?^>1«  to  .«"■•»  <^'^^  "Hill  with  a  revolver,  and  about  three- 
,n   1  h'     V,"'"'''"  •'^'l^l'tion,  should  have  a  double-barreled  gun,  one 
or  lightings      "'  ""  ''    ™^  '' ''  "'•''^  ^'^'^^^''^  S^"  *^^^^^'^'  for  hunting 

A\^r^'^f !  '"f  instructions  from  the  Hon.  John  B.  Floyd,  Secretary  of 

llaim      d'Lui Y    '  .^^1 ''-/."'^^  ^^'^"^  ^^'«^^t  Brigadier-General  W.  S. 
A^aIne,^,  dated  June  .5,  IS.jO.  ari>  tninsmitted  herewith 

V'ory  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

G.  K.  Warren, 
Capt.  A.  A.  Humphreys,  ^'^"^^"«"^  Topographical  Engineers. 

Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers, 

In  charge  Office  Explorations  and  Surveys. 


12 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA 


! 


■iW 


War  Department, 

Washington,  May  6,  1857. 

Sir:  Under  the  appro]  riation  "for  surveys  for  military  defenses, 
geographical  explorations,  and  reconnaissances  for  military  purposes," 
you  will  organize  an  expedition  to  ascertain  the  bt  st  route  for  con- 
tinuing the  military  road  between  Fort  Snelling  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Big  Sioux  to  Fort  Laramie  and  the  South  Pass,  bv  way  of  the  Loup 
Fork  of  the  Platte ;  to  make  also  such  explorations  in  the  Black  Hills 
about  the  sources  of  the  Shyenne  and  Little  Missouri  rivers,  as  the 
time  and  means  will  permit ;  and  to  examine  the  Niobrara  or  I'Eau  qui 
Court  River,  upon  your  return  route,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
Its  character  and  resources  and  the  practicability  of  locating  a  road 
along  It,  leading  from  the  Missouri  Kiver  to  the  South  Pass,  or  from 
Fort  Eandall  to  Fort  Laramie. 

The  sum  of  twenty-flve  thousand  dollars  is  set  apart  from  the  appro- 
priation to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  expedition,  which  amount  vour 
expenditures  must  not  exceed. 

The  commanding  general  of  the  Department  of  the  West  will  be 
directed  to  detail  an  escort  of  thirty  enlisted  men  of  the  infantry,  under 
the  command  of  a  second  lieutenant,  who  will  report  to  you  for  duty. 

Transportation  for  the  provision  and  equipage  of  the  escort,  their 
subsistence,  and  their  necessary  ammunition,  will  be  furnished,  respect- 
ively, by  the  Quartermaster's,  Commissary,  and  Ordnance  Departments. 

Upon  tbe  proper  requisitions,  officers  of  the  Quartermaster's  and 
Commissary  Departments  at  the  military  posts  near  the  routes  pursued 
by  the  expedition  will  furnish,  as  far  as  practicable,  all  necessary  sup- 
plies for  It,  which,  when  required  for  the  civil  employes,  shall  be  paid 
for  at  cost  prices  at  the  t)laces  of  delivery,  from  the  appropriation  for 
the  survey. 

Twenty  Colt's  revolvers,  of  the  Navy  pattern,  with  belts,  holsters,  and 
the  necessary  ammunition,  will  be  furnished  by  the  Ordnance  Depart- 
ment; those  lost  or  damaged  being  paid  for  out  of  the  appropriation  for 
the  survey. 

All  other  arras  and  ammunition  for  the  civil  employes  (guides  hunt- 
ers, herders,  &c.)  of  the  expedition  will  be  paid  for  from  this  same 
appropriation. 

You  are  authorized  to  employ  as  assistants— 

Per  uiontL. 

A  topographer,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed $si3o 

One  assistant  topographer,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed lOO 

An  assistant  astronomer,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed J'^ij 

A  physician  and  geologist,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed S.V.  V>b 

xln  assistant  physiciar  and  geologist,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed . .  lOO 

A  meteorologist,  at  a  salary  not  to  exceed CO 

And  to  pay  their  actual  traveling  expenses  to  and  from  the  field  of 
operations. 

You  will  procure  your  employes  equipment,  supplies,  &c.,  at  those 
points  which  appear  to  insure  the  most  economical  and  eftectivo,  organi- 
zation for  your  party,  and  prepare  to  take  the  field  at  the  earliest 
possible  moment.  While  in  the  field,  attention  will  be  given  to  ascer- 
taining everything  relating  to  the  agricultural  and  mineralogical  re- 
sources of  the  country,  its  cli-natnlogy,  its  topographical  features,  and 
the  facilities  or  obstacles  which  these  latter  oiler  to  the  construction  of 
rail  or  common  roads. 

You  will  communicate  with  the  Department  through  the  Office  of 
Explorations  and  Surveys,  in  charge  of  Capt.  A.  A.  Humphreys,  Corps 


'A 

SNT, 

May  6,  1857. 
itary  defenses, 
lary  purposes," 
route  for  con- 
s'raoutli  of  the 
y  of  the  Loup 
e  Black  Hills, 

rivers,  as  the 
ra  or  I'Eau  qui 
f  ascertaining 
eating  a  road 

Pass,  or  from 

om  the  appro- 
amount  your 

West  will  be 
nfautry,  under 
ou  for  duty, 
e  escort,  their 
ished,  respect- 
Departments, 
rmaster's  and 
cutes  pursued 
Qecessary  sup- 
shall  be  paid 
)ropriation  for 

,  holsters,  and 
lauce  Depart- 
)ropriation  for 

(guides,  hunt- 
)ui  this  same 


Per  montb. 
$130 
100 
125 
125 
100 

GO 

m  the  field  of 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


13 


a  will  make  the  reports 

•f  of  engineers  in  charge 

transmitted  as  oi'^en  as 

1  keep  the  Department 

gress  of  the  expedition 


Topographical  Engineers ;  and  to  this  oflfir 
and  returns  required  by  regulations  of  an  t 
of  a  work  or  operation,  and  such  other  rep. 
the  means  of  communication  will  allow,  a 
apprised  of  all  your  movements,  and  the 
under  your  charge. 

On  the  completion  of  the  field  duty,  you  will  return,  with  your  assist- 
ants, to  Washington,  and  there  prepare  the  maps  and  reports  necessarv 
to  a  lull  exposition  of  the  results  ot' the  expedition.  "ecessar;y 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

•  John  B.  Floyd, 

Lieut.  G.  K.  W^ARREN,  ^'"''^'"'^  ''•^"  ^^«''- 

Coq)s  TopogmiiUcal  Emjineers. 


Bed . . 


[Special  Onlers  No.  26.] 

„  ,     Headquarters  Sioux  Expedition, 

Unnp  near  old  Fort  Loohmt,  Missouri  liiver,  June  3,  18oG. 

L  A.s  it  is  important  to  obtain  reliable  information  of  the  Missouri 
Mver,  from  Fort  Pierre  to  some  point  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, near  which  Governor  Stevens'  route  strikes  it,  Second  Lieuten- 
ant Gouverneur    v.  Warren,  Topographical  Enginee^sTis  a  signexl    o 

lhe^,ornf  XveTildS^^^^^^  ''''''  '^^  '"'''''  ''  ''''  ^^^^^^  «^-  ^^^-^'^  ^^ 

nf^-^uT-  ^^^»™'.^'?^^"f"^^^'''''^^"  ^'"^  Procure  a  sufficient  number 
of  Mackinac  boats,  lor  the  transportation  of  his  partv,  stores  &c  to 
enable  him  to  effecta  thoro^  gh  examination  of  this  pS  of  the  river? 

II.  The  commanding  officer  of  the  Second  Infantry  will  select  an  effi- 
cient party  from  his  regiment,  consisting  of  two  non  commissioned  offi- 
cers and  fifteen  men,  to  report  to  Lieutenant  Warren  as  his  escort  Thev 
wi  1  be  furnished  w  th  three  months'  provisions,  equipage,  &c  ^ 

III.  The  assistant  quartermaster  at  Fort  Pierre  will  furnish  the  neces- 

entitwrr'""? "'  T^  ''''^'  ^^"l^P"^^  ^'  Lieutenant  wSren  may  be 
struclions^  department,  for  the  proper  execution  of  these  in- 

By  order  of  Brevet  Brigadier-General  Harney. 

n     *    o         1  -r.  ^'  PJ^EASONTON, 

tapt.  i^econd  Dragoons,  Acting  Assistant  Adjutant-General. 


&c.,  at  those 
ectivo  organi- 
the  earliest 
ven  to  ascer- 
lerfilogical  re- 
featurcs,  and 
)nstructiou  of 

the  Office  of 
>hreys,  Corps 


I     ''fv 


REi^ORT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ROUTES  EXPLORED,   AND  MAIN  INCIDENTS  AFFECTINa  THEIR  EXTENT 

AND  DURATION. 

In  presenting  the  following  report  of  explorations  in  I^ebraska,  made 
by  me  in  the  year  1857, 1  shall  include  also  my  previous  reconnaissances 
m  that  ierritory  in  the  years  18o5-'56,  while  attached  to  the  staff  of 
Brevet  Brigadier-General  W.  S.  Harney,  commanding  the  Sioux  expe- 
dition. As,  at  this  time,  a  complete  narrative  of  these  cannot  be  made, 
I  shall  only  mention  the  routes  pursued  and  the  nature  of  the  examina- 
tion, and  then  give  what  I  consider  the  most  prominent  results. 

A  report  of  the  explorations  made  in  1855,  and  map  of  the  routes 
fT"""!" S  aV^.^^^o®'*^.""^.  expedition,  have  already  been  published  by  the 
United  btates  Senate  in  a  small  document  called  "Explorations  in  the 
Dacotah  Country."  During  that  year  routes  were  examined  from  Fort 
Pierre  to  Fort  Kearney ;  from  Fort  Kearney  to  Fort  Laramie,  along  the 

t^lf  ^    fJ^'  i'T  59^'t  Laramie  to  Fort  Pierre  5  and  from  Fort  Pierre 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux  Kiver. 

In  1856  I  started  from  Saint  Louis  for  Fort  Pierre,  in  the  middle  of 
April,  accompanied  by  my  assistants,  Messrs.  W.  H.  Hutton  J  H 
Snowden,  and  F.  V.  Hayden,  on  board  Captain  Throckmorton's  steam^ 
ft?i  .w  "rf^'V  ,?""."S  oy  passage  up  the  Missouri  we  made  a  care- 
tul  sketch  of  the  river  above  the  southern  boundary  of  Nebraska  bv 
means  of  compass  courses,  and  distances  estimated  from  the  rate  of 
travel  of  the  steamboat,  and  by  astronomical  observations  for  lati- 
thf  t^rf  elevated  position  of  the  pilot-house  of  the  steamboat,  which 
the  politeness  of  the  captain  allowed  us  to  occupy,  afforded  advantages 
for  gaining  a  knowledge  of  the  river,  the  extent  of  the  sand-bars  and 
the  s.ze  and  quantity  of  timber  on  the  banks,  the  nature  of  the  bottom 
ZfL  Tf  ''^^^''^'-  "marshes,  &c.,  not  equaled  by  those  of  any  other 
f^ol?  1^  reconnaissance,  and  the  topographer  at  the  same  time  could 
avail  himselt  of  the  extensi^*^  and  accurate  knowledge  of  the  pilot 

t^rpff^'J7%*'?"'',^^.?'^T  ^^  ^'^"^^^'^  ^"^  ^«e>^  sightsrshowed  us  that 
tiie  effects  of  local  attraction  on  the  compass  by  the  iron  on  the  boat 
were  not  important,  and  the  checks  on  the  estimated  distances,  afforded 
!Si  SJ  ""^  ot  observations  for  latitude,  proved  that  these  estimates 
were  very  accurately  made  by  Messrs.  Hutton  and  Snowden,  who,  bv 
turns,  prepared  the  sketch  of  the  river.  '        '  ^ 

As  far  up  as  the  mouth  of  James  Eiver  our  advance  had  been  quite 

S/i^t.r''^''  ^'''f  ^^  ^  ^I"?^  '^''§^^5  but  a  short  distance  above  that 
point  we  encountered  a  sudden  and  heavy  freshet  in  the  river,  rnro- 
duced  by  rains,)  with  a  current  so  rapid  that  our  boat  was  unable  to 
advance  agains  it.  From  this  cause  we  remained  tied  up  to  the  bank 
«  wiiuiu  Uay.    As  sooji  as  the  river  began  to  fall  the  velocitv  abated" 

ZiZl  ^fT^'fl'^^^,  l^^.  '^7^^'-  ^^  ^^^^^n,  however,  was  the  sub! 
sidence  of  the  flood  that,  in  five  days  after  we  had  escaped  the  embargo 
ot  too  much  water,  we  found  ourselves  aground  and  drawing  several 


DHEIR  EXTENT 


EXPLORATIONS   IN   NEBRASKA   AND    DAKOTA.  15 

inches  more  water  than  thprpwoQ  n.,T^.^u 

to  leave  the  boat  and  prS^^^  f  ^^"  ^«^^')  ^'«  determined 

of  American  Crow  River  XntP?ifVf^^^^^^^^  camp,  at  the  mouth 
transportation  were  two  h'orsestli^l.rlo'"/^'.  ?,''^"^-  ^"^  '"^ans  of 
fantry,  and  LieutenarColonef  And?Z  of  ?L^  ^' h^  t^T'  ^^^^^^  I"' 
carried  our  blankets  and  provisions-  oL'xrf  ^  ^''^^^  Infontry,  which 
Moore  and  two  men.  On^i  ^  ^  o'pposite  to^'£«  accompanied  by  a  Mr. 
evening  of  the  third  dav's  trnv*?  ^'f^®''^®  ^.^}^^^  dragoon  camp  on  the 

boat  to  bring  us  across     We  stlv'^  there  was  «o 

and  the  next  morning  renewed  nnri  ^?  of  the  river  that  night, 
camp.  These,  however  faHed  to  .  LF^'i'  to  communicate  with  the 
visions  being  short,  we  w?  I  ob  Led  t^^^^^  *^  "?'  ^°d'  «»r  pro- 

iiey  on  foot,  (there  having  U^n  a  ;oi,re?n"'"''^^^^^^^  ^^  '^"^JO""'" 
tempt  to  reach  Port  Pier?e^  eigSv  mS  dlst.n?"%t-^  '""^  "^^^^'^  ^^  ^^^ 
m  three  days,  and  arrived  there  o'lhe  on  k  Jm'  "^^  accomplished 
hausted,  having  subsisted  ma  nlj  on  the  bi^ds  H?Lfei'  ««™P  ^^.^'^  '^■ 
The  journey  gave  me  an  opportun  W  of  vW  L  ?.  ^^  """^Z^^^-^^^^' 
ainK^arances  a  few  miles  back  from  the  Milsouri^      '  '^""''^^'  ""^^  ^^'^ 

^^  tT^tl^irSe^r^St  P&^^  ^--^'^^  '^^  the  place 
arrival  all  the  tribes  of  the  Dafotrs  west  of'the\\1«f  "'•  "^^  ^"  »^^' 
bichaugus  and  Ogallalas,  were  asseinTSH  ir.  ^^  foun,  except  the 
peace  .a.  „a,e  ^,,  ..ein  ^'VeS'Sl ' "e^wS  Sl.^ffi,»e' 

to  determine  their  suSlft"  a^  „?flJ  if^M-'.™  ""  P"'"'^  »»  »«  n™^ 
such  otlierinformatioi  Twe  Z,f  ,n,«lr'''-l'''  P™*"'  »■»•  «»  obtain 
An  escort  of  fifteen  men  and?wn„„„„„l?''*  ^''''/<'*f''"' t«  the  countrr. 

Infantry  were  placed  nndep  my  cZmZT""^^"?^^^".  °J-  '"*  ««»»« 
American  Far  Comnanv's  Iwnt  "  «f   li        f^  '®^'  ^""^  I^'"™  '■>  the 

transit  was  set  up,  and  ob7ervafLn«  Jli        f^^^^t  Union  a  16-inch 
but  owing  to  the  cloudy  coSon  of  th«^^^^^^^  ^  ^''^^^  ^""^*^«^ ' 

shortness  of  the  nightf  themsXpf  ^  ?   l^  ^^  "^"""^  *^^  time,  and  the 
obtained  on  the  m?rand  star^   T,?i^'       u'^^"  f  observations  were 

tude  of  that  post  104°  02'  with  a  lir^t ,  P^^  ""l  ^}'^^^  ^^^«  «^«  lo^gi- 
WhiJp  nf  T?r»rf  rr;  •         '  ^  ^^'"^^  ''^  ^"or  of  about  10' 

Ha.;  n\'Lce  S  ^'^^i-^^-     " 

,  me  beforf  tre    st  Sf  SeDtembeJ  T^!T'  boat  could  not  be  prepared  for 
I  of  tho.  Ypiin«....l  ,„4^tem"er,  I  determined  to  make  an  pvim^nof? ".: 

joutl\^.sfSuiraTe  hTlefr,fa\^^^^^^^  ^°^^  iaVan^yinFtTrs 

portat  )n  from  Sir  Georie^rnr!  t«  P^^^^'-^^e  ^^^  means  of  laid  trans 

«ive  hunting  exc„r8ioC,Uhe^at%sof''.h?v  n''"""°^  ^^''"^  ^"  «^ten. 
We  left  the  month  of  Z  ^^n^r^J  !^.l/lS  traTetil^^  tL^^^^: 


i':i 


16 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


up  the  left  bauk,  reached  a  point  one  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  be- 
yond which  it  was  impossible  to  advance  with  w%agons  along  the  valley 
of  the  Yellowstone  without  crossing  to  the  opposite  banks.  Here  wo 
made  a  camp  with  the  main  body,  and  with  a  party  of  seven  I  proceeded, 
with  pack  animals,  over  a  very  difficult  country  (known  as  the  Bad 
Landa  of  the  Yellowstone)  to  the  mouth  of  Powder  Kiver,  thirty  miles 
further. 

This  was  the  furthest  point  up  the  Yellowstone  that  I  intended  to 
proceed,  and  I  was  anxious  to  reach  it  and  to  fix  its  position,  as  being 
a  good  and  certain  point  with  which  any  future  reconnaissance  could 
connect.  From  the  appearance  of  Powder  Kiver  at  the  mouth,  no  one 
would  suppose  the  stream  to  be  of  the  length  it  really  is,  and  I  was  not 
surprised  at  Captain  Clark  not  having  done  so  on  his  voyage  down  the 
Yellowstone  in  1806.  On  returning  to  our  wagon  camp,  we  all  traveled 
a  short  distance  down  the  Yellowstone  to  a  convenient  point,  where  we 
made  a  boat  eighteen  feet  long  and  five  feet  wide,  by  stretching  the 
skins  of  three  buffalo  bulls  over  a  frame  made  of  small  cottonwood  and 
willow  trees.  With  this  vessel  a  small  party  navigated  the  Yellowstone 
to  its  mouth,  carefully  mapping  the  islands  and  bends  of  the  river.  The 
wagons  and  laud  party  returned  to  the  Missouri  by  traveling  over  nearly 
the  route  by  which  they  ascended. 

We  enjoyed  the  greatest  abundance  of  large  game  of  all  kinds  while 
on  the  Y^ellowstone  lliver. 

On  reaching  Fort  Union  again  we  found  our  boat  nearly  ready, 
and,  all  our  arrangements  being  completed,  w^e  left  that  place  on  the 
1st  of  September  A  small  party  conducted  the  animals  along  the 
shore  on  our  journey  down  the  Missouri,  geneially  camping  each 
night  with  the  boat  party.  Halts  of  two  or  three  days  were  made  at 
all  interesting  localities,  and  map  sketches  were  made  several  miles 
up  all  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Missouri;  and  the  map  of  the  Mis- 
souri was  also  verified.  These  sketches,  on  a  scale  of  one  and  a  half 
inch  to  a  mile,  are  on  file  and  convenient  for  reference  in  this  office. 

Thermometer  and  barometer  observations  were  made  throughout  the 
period  of  the  examinations  of  the  year  1850.  Dr.  Hayden  was  indefat- 
igable in  his  eftbrts  to  develop  the  geology  of  the  region  traversed, 
and  some  of  the  results  have  already  been  published,  by  permission  of 
the  War  Department,  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences  in  Philadelphia.  A  very  extensive  collection  was  also  made 
in  zoology. 

We  reached  Fort  Pierre  on  our  return  on  the  2d  of  October,  at 
which  place  our  animals  were  sold,  and  most  of  the  soldiers  returned 
to  their  respective  companies.  A  few  accompanied  us  as  fiir  as  the 
mouth  of  the  James  River.  We  reached  Sioux  City  on  November  15, 
and  fortunately  found  a  steamboat  there,  by  means  of  which  we  pro- 
ceeded with  our  effects  to  Saint  Louis,  and  thence  by  railroad  to  Wash- 
ington. The  cost  of  this  expedition  to  the  United  States  was  about 
$1(),000. 

No  special  report  has  yet  been  made  by  me  on  the  results  of  this 
explorati<'  The  maps  were  about  completed,  and  the  mate- 
rial in  the  process  of  elaboration,  when  I  was  assigned  to  the  command 
of  finother  exploration  by  the  War  Department,  a  brief  account  of 
which  I  shall  now  proceed  to  give. 

I  received  my  instructions  from  the  Hon.  John  B.  Floyd,  Secretary 
of  War,  May  7, 1857,  the  general  terms  of  which  were  to  make  the 
necessary  examinations  to  determine  the  best  route  for  continuing  the 
military  road  between  :\Iendota  and  the  Big  Sioux  westward  to  Fort 


year's 


11  kinds  while 


f  account  of 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NKHKASKA  AND  DAKOTA.         IJ 

Lanunie  and  the  S.u.th  Pass;  thence  to  j.roceed  northwird  -md 
make  such  examinations  on  the  ]Jlack  Hills^.s  n.v  tiim  ■  id  ne^ns 
woukl  permit,  and  to  return  bv  the  vin«»v  r.r  m.^  v-  i  «"'<'  "i<m»8 
a  careril  exa.nination  thereof  I  was  i  sited  n  '^1  e  r;?'  ""r  "''^" 
Messrs.  J.  H.  Snowden  and  P.  M.  S.^rn     tJ  o-       S^.' D  'p    l^ 

Mofttt,  as  surgeon;   and  Lieut.  Jas.  McMilhin'co.uinan.liuTtho  escort 

Accompanied  by  Mr.  Engel,  I  then  nroceedPfl  Vn  <4,v.„^  n-^ 

long  use,  were  of  very  inferiorCalifv      T?nn^    '^-  ?^  ^'''''"^'?'  *'«"^ 
getting  the  train  iu  Vavebng  Tn    ^n    wSS^^^^^^ 
abandoning  one  wagon  and  a  larffe  snm^/nf^     was  only  done  by 
During  this  time  a  rumor*  reached  fhe^.^nfnfi  f??'  •^^'  ^^^  ^''''''^' 
between  the  soldiers  and  the  ShvemfJ.^t   a  f^t^* 

Civilized  community,  where  we  sLl!!in„rt     '"''^^  occurring  in  a 

construct  a  raft  with  which  to  cross  the  Elk  Ho?n  ''^  ^''"^'  ^"^ 

and  south  raTtotbePi;tteTtll„?'°'''l''''r''  '°  "'"  ''''''"•'■■•■' 

^  ^  This  rumor  was  without  foundatiou,  a«  it  afterwards  appe^^^IT 


18 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NKHRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


Ill 


,it 


llill  coniitry,  but  many  of  tlicin  iiro  too  niiicli  iinprofriuited  with  salts  to 
\m  wiioIcMoiiu'.  Solium  of  tlu'Hc  latter  our  animals  drank  out  of  without 
injury.  On  rcatdiiiiH  tlu'  lon^ihidc  of  102°  iW  we  had  the  ^^ood  fortune 
to  tind  an  «»|.en  stretch  of  eountry,  with  a  lar^e,  wellinarked  lod^e  trail 
leading;  between  the  IMatte  and  Niobrara,  wiiich,  in  one  day's  travel 
northward,  bion^'ht  us  to  the  Niobrara.  We  now  i)r()eeeded  rapidly 
ov«'r  an  easy  joute  to  Fort  Jiaraniie. 

Duriiij,'  lh(^  journt^y  there  had  been  considerable  siekness  in  the  canii> 
[roin  fevers,  and  one  of  the  men  was  so  near  the  [mint  of  death  that  a 
halt  ot  several  days  was  made  for  ids  benefit.  Dr.  Motlitt  also  became 
so  dl  as  to  re(iuire  a  delay  of  one  or  two  days.  These  necessary  ston- 
I»a«('s,  the  dilVicultu's  of  the  route,  rainy  weather,  toff(.ther  with  my 
benifj  obh^M'd  to  leave  so  much  of  our  provisions  behind  at  Sioux  City, 
reduced  our  supplies  to  a  small  amount,  and  for  nearly  two  weeks  we 
were  without  su^ar  or  eoifee.  We  had  also  been  very  much  disap- 
pointed in  the  amount  of  game;  and  though  the  country  gave  evidence 
ot  having  recently  been  occupied  by  large  herds  of  bullalo,  only  a  few 
bulls  were  seen.  During  the  early  part  of  the  journev,  moscpiitoes  were 
abundant,  and  allowed  our  animals  no  rest  at  night,  and  immense  uu'/i- 
bers  of  llies  attaiiked  them  by  day.  These  insects,  combined,  exhausted 
and  worried  the  animals  more  than  the  labor  they  performed,  and  the 
lives  of  ont^  or  two  were  saved  only  by  covering  them  with  grease  and 
tar  to  kee})  the  flies  and  mosquitoes  away. 

At  Fort  Laramie  we  entirely  refitted  the  party,  which  took  us  a  Ion'' 
time,  on  account  of  everything  being  required  for  the  Utah  expeditiom 
Jt  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  state  that  the  commanding  officer.  Colonel 
Ijotlman,  and  the  a(!ting  quartermaster.  Lieutenant  Higgins,  gave  me 
all  the  tacilities  at  their  command.  Owing  to  the  great  number  of  ani- 
mals  that  graze  in  the  neighborhood,  the  grass  was  nearly  eaten  off,  and 
our  animals  recruited  very  little  during  our  stay  there.  While  there  I 
succeeded  m  getting  several  sets  of  observations  for  moon  culminations, 
which  determined  the  longitude  to  be  104°  30',  with  a  limit  of  error  of 
about  4'.  Dr.  ILaydeu  and  Mr.  Eugel  also  made  an  excursion  to  Lara- 
mie Peak,  which  they  ascended. 

The  party,  on  leaving  Fort  Laramie,  was  divided  into  two  parts,  as, 
owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  it  was  impossible  to  accomplish  all 
the  objects  of  the  expedition  by  keeping  together.  Though  in  doing 
this  I  subjected  each  portion  to  the  possibility  of  being  defeated  by  the 
Im.ians,  1  deemed  the  case  to  justify  the  risk.  The  wagons  were,  half 
ot  them,  turned  in  to  the  quartermaster,  and  the  remainder,  with  the 
escort  under  Lieutenant  McJVIillan,  were  to  i)roceed  dowu  the  Niobrara, 
and  await  me  in  longitude  lOfo  'M'.  Mr.  J.  H.  Snowden  went  with  this 
party  to  make  the  topographical  reconnaissances  ;  Dr.  Moffitt  also  ac- 
companied it.  My  own  party  consisted  of  Dr.  Hayden,  Mr.  Carrington, 
aiid  j\Ir.  Engel,  and  we  had  with  us  17  men  as  packers,  &c.,  and  Mr. 
Monn  as  a  guide  and  inter])ieter.    Our  supplies  were  packed  on  mules. 

feetting  out  Irom  Fort  Laramie  on  the  4th  of  September,  we  proceeded 
direct  for  the  Black  Hills  via  Kaw  Hide  Butte,  Old  Woman  Creek,  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Shyenne,  and  Beaver  Creek;  up  a  branch  of  this 
last  we  entered  the  Black  IJills.  We  continued  north  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  Inyan  Kara,  (or  the  peffk  which  makes  the  mountain,)  a  remarkable 
high  basaltic  peak,  one  of  the  highest  of  these  mountains,  and  so  far  to 
the  north  that  we  had  a  full  view  of  the  prairie  beyond. 

Here  we  were  met  by  a  very  large  force  of  the  Dakotas,  who  made 
snch  earnest  remonstrances  and  threats  against  our  proceeding  into 
their  country  that  1  did  not  think  it  prutient  for  us,  as  a  scientific  expe- 


KXPLOKATIONS    IN    NKHRASKA    AND    DAKOTA.  10 

hliji„n,to  v.'i.t.ire  fnrtl.or  i.i  this  diivctiori.     Sotno  of  thoin  wero  for 
a  tm^km^n.H  nn.mMl.itcIv  as  their  rm,nl,(,rs  would  have  ins  ^  "dZcoS' 

|o.rth..y  would  .u.twitIu<,tnl^;Cu;llt^ 
upon  tlicn..     Wo  wor«  at  the  time  almost  in  si-l.t  ,,(•  Vl  r.J.w.n    li 
those   Indians  had  j^lundered  «ir  (Jeor-V    Joi";  i„   li-     '    ^    V"''*' 
orin^  to  procoHl  through  their  <H>unt;.y^1nul'Z  o '  t^    'vv^   -IllSw 
.Mounted  on  one  of  his  best  horses,  taken  at  that    in        8ir  Ge  £ 
(.ores  party  was  only  about  half  as  numerous  as  mine       ut  there    ve?p 

|ve?;':e?s;':.^j^t?t££t^ 

.n  theirown  nnnds  in  resisting,-  and  as  th ese   ire  s   1      r.^^^n^^^^^^^        T 
j.revention  of  the  passajjo  of  a^.  v  ( ther  n^r  foAvhiMin  1     f^  *^^'  *''f 
to  resist  successfully,  tlS^y  are  o\-  ^uJlcffim^^^^^^^^^^ 
J.ere.    In  the  irst  place,  they  were  encan.ped  niar  arge  her< Is  of  bufi  hf 

tt  Zv  i::i's.;!d'  ^l^^^^^f^^^^^y  ^-^own  to  ,nake  robS;  the  l^dLn^  we  ? 
|t  may  be  said,  actua  ly  herding  the  animals.  No  one  was  permitted  To 
Ivill  any  m  the  largo  bands  tor  fear  of  stampeding  the  ot  fe  4  Ton^ 
K'  were  killed  as  straggled  away  from  the  nfaiu  he  ds  '  Tims  hi 
nutU  u'hfl  ^*  the  butfalo  was  stopped  so  that  the  clld  not  ,toceed 
t  ?     i'  I     -''^  "^"^  ^^"^  I*""**^  *«  ^^'"^'l'  tl»«.V  wt'>«  trave  ing     The  inteS 

CUev  sai'<rt;;:"'tr/,!;^K."'^'  r*"?,  Vr'-^'  "■•««'  "S^lnst  our  proceeding. 


20 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEHRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


nv- 


m 


|i    ■'••'!. 


oc(;ur,  our  passinjr  thronsli  tlu'ir  country  would  ^ivo  us  a  ktiowIedRo  of 
its  ciiann-.tir  and  the  i)ro|H'r  way  to  travcrHo  it  in  the  event  of  another 
war  l)ef  ween  themselves  and  the  troop?*.  I  was  necessarily  compelled 
to  admit  to  myself  the  truth  and  force  of  these  objections. 

The  Indians  whom  1  first  met  were  the  iMinikanyes,  to  the  number 
of  torty  hxlKCN,  near  whom,  as  ihey  were  verv  friendly,  we  emsarnped.* 
They  were  soon  Joined  by  the  wariiors  of  a  lar^e  camp  of  Unkpa|)aH 
and  Sihasapas,  and  our  position,  which  was  sutticieutly  unpleasant  in 
the  presence  of  such  a  numerous  party  of  half  avowed  enemies,  was 
lemlered  doubly  80  by  a  storm  of  sleet  and  snow,  which  lasted  two 
days  an<i  nights,  and  against  which  we  had  but  little  protection. 

A  younjf  Indian,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Fort  Laramie,  con- 
sidered the  danger  to  us  so  imminent  that  he  forsook  our  camp  and 
joined  his  friends,  the  Minikanyea. 

Under  these  embarrassinj?  circumstances  my  associates  evinced  the 
Miost  resolute  bravery  and  determiiuition  to  abide  the  result  like  true 
men. 

1  coLsented  to  wait  three  days  without  advancing,  in  order  to  meet 
their  great  warrior,  Bear's  Kib,  ai)pointed  first  chief  by  General  Har- 
ney's treaty,  merely  changing  our  position  to  one  offering  greater 
lacdities  for  defense.  At  the  expiration  of  the  time,  Bear's  Kib  not 
nujk/ng  his  appearance,  we  broke  up  camp,  and,  traveling  back  on 
our  route  about  forty  miles,  struck  ofi"  to  the  eastward,  through  the 
southern  part  of  these  moutttains.  The  point  where  we  turned  back  is 
well  maiked  by  the  Inyan  Kara  Peak,  whose  position  was  fixed  by  us. 

Atter  we  had  proceeded  two  days  on  our  journey  eastward,  we  were 
overtaken  by  Bear's  liib  and  one  other  Indian  who  accompanied  him 
He  reiterated  all  that  had  been  said  by  the  other  chiefs,  and  added 
that  he  could  do  nothing  to  prevent  our  being  destroyed  if  we  attempted 
to  proceed  further.    1  then  told  him  that  I  believed  he  was  our  friend 
but  that  if  he  could  do  nothing  for  us,  he  had  better  return  to  his  peo- 
ple, and  leave  us  to  take  care  of  ourselves,  as  I  was  determined  to  pro- 
ceed as  far  as  Bear  Butte.    After  a  whole  day  spent  in  deliberation  he 
concluded  to  accomi)any  us  a  part  of  the  way,  and  he  said  he  would 
then  return  to  his  people  and  use  his  influence  to  have  us  not  molested 
In  return  for  this,  he  wished  me  to  say  to  the  President  and  to  the 
white  people  that  they  could  not  be  allowed  to  come  into  that  country; 
that  if  the  presents  sent  were  to  purchase  such  a  right,  they  did  not'want 
them.    All  they  asked  of  the  white  people  was,  to  be  left  to  themselves 
and  let  alone;  that  if  the  presents  were  sent  to  induce  them  not  to  go 
to  war  with  the  Crows  and  their  other  enemies,  they  did  not  wish  them. 
War  with  them  was  not  only  a  necessity  but  a  pastime.    He  said  Gen- 
eral Harney  had  told  them  not  to  go  to  war,  and  yet  he  was  all  the 
time  going  to  war  himself.    (Bear's  Kib  knew  that  when  General  Harney 
left  tiie  Sioux  country  he  had  gone  to  the  war  in  Florida,  and  was  at 
the  time  in  command  of  the  army  sent  against  the  Mormons.)    He  said 
moreover,  that  the  annuities  scarcely  paitl  for  going  after  them  •  and 
that  if  they  were  not  distributed  to  them  while  they  were  on  their  visit 
to  the  trading-posts  on  the  Missouri  to  dispose  of  their  robes,  thev  did 
not  want  them. 

(It  is  a  fact  that  for  several  years,  owing  to  this  cause,  these  Indians 
nave  not  come  in  for  their  "-nnds  at  all.) 
He  said  that  he  heard  that  the  Ihanktonwans  were  going  to  sell  their 

*  I  am  much  indebted  to  tlwiiifiiienco  of  Major  Twiss,  the  Indian  aijeut  near  Fort 
Laranne,  for  his  eflforts  to  jrive  the  Dakotas  a  favorable  opinion  of  my  expedition  and 
to  secure  us  a  friendly  reception.  ■>      t-  > 


EXPLORATIONS    IN    NEimASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


21 


Iniuls  to  the  wliit«>.s.     If  tlio.v  .li.l  ho,  1„.  wi,sl,o<l   them  intbrino.l   thit 
tlM.y  c.,..hl  not  coM.e  on  his  ,H.„,,le\s  hnnls.     Tl.ev  nnist  Ht   ^w    h    I'u 

Whatever  may  have  hcon  Bear's  Ril,'s  notions  after  leaving  ns  it  is 
mtau.  we  saw  no  n.ore  Indians  in  the  Hlaek  Hills.     Wr^n  ph  ';i  onr 
iec..nna.ssanee  u  on^^  the  eastern  ju.rtion  of  these  n.oJnt      s    sV^r    i 
l''|"ar  Peak,  which  fcnns  n,.other  convenient  and  acen     t o  ^^ 
AvI.Krli  any  future  reconnaissance  may  connect  with  our  nt,.      \v  1  1 
v.s.ted  the  North  Fork  of  the  Hhyenne,  in  this  vi'     ,  ty     On'on^  et"  rn 
we  took  a  southeast  dire(!tion,  striking  the  South  Fork  nf  Ih^  ii 
at  the  n.outh  of  Sa«e  (^reek.   'we  the^  pr^eeS  n  "  the  So  th^^Sto 
rcn(th  Creek;  thence  southeast,  tiirouyii  the  Bad      -inds     o  Whifn 
.ver;  thence  alonjf  the  sources  of  WhUe  CI  y  (  rlf  ^d' Porc^^^^^^^^^^^ 
Creek  ;  and  thence  to  the  Niobrara,  striki,.j;  it  in  h>nff  tu      lO-o  o' 

We  found  the  party  under  Lieutenant  WMilhi"S,fortv  miles 
below  where  we  struck  the  river,  and  eighty  miles  el  w  herfwe^  S 
first  reached  it  on  our.journey  westward  in  August     TLsSrvtnni 

MALi,u  cxcuisions  at  ditterent  i)lace8  to  exam  ne  the  countrv  sis  I  harl 

he  chie,  Little  Thunder,  sent  four  of  his  principal  men  to  accon  ,m^^^ 
I.em,  which  they  did  for  some  days.  At  a  sn bseo  e  t  tim^  v  ,*  v 
two  warriors  diarged  into  the  camp,  thinking  tlieTity  was  a^m  ii  J' 
expedition.  Their  insolence  was  checked  by  Lieite^n^McMn  "i^^^^ 
hreatening  to  fire  on  them  ;  whereupon  thev  entered  thSusS  nro^^^^^^^^ 
against  the  jmrty  s  proceeding  further,  and  the  next  CaTw  thdrew 
li  e  last  twenty  miles  of  Lieutenant  McMillan's  route  was  thrZr  wifffl  * 
cnl   sand-hills  bordering  the  river,  the  stream   tsdf  be  ng  so  shS  in  ifv 

We^'^n'o^il^"'  ^''lr'  ''•''*'  ^^  ''^'  ""'-^^^^  to  travel  alonglt.  ^' 

We  now  found  the  route  exceedingly  laborious  for  wagor^  on  no 
count  of  the  sand-hills,  which  continue  to  the  mouth  of  ?4pid  Creek' 
Ihe  character  of  the  immediate  valley  of  the  NiobrarrpreXded  the 
S"VM^'^*™'''l*r^^"^«°S  ^*;  ««'  ^^ile  Mr.  SnowTen  m^^^^^^^      the 
route  of  the  train,  Mr.  Eugel  traveled  along  the  river  soSEs  on 
one  side  and  sometimes  on  the  other,  and  made  a  map  of  iP  E  ^n  he 
bough  ruling  a  mu  e,  found  it  diflScult  to  keep  up  in^hs  way  with  the 
«  agons,  which  slowly  wound  their  way  through  and  ove/the  san  1  hil  I 
Our  camps  at  night  were  here  alway"s  on  the  nn  n  ?iv  Jr     Aft"?  mss 
Iff  the  Rapid  Creek,  the  sand-hills  gave  us  no  longer  anXubleTexceDt 

i  .iha  )  but  he  ravines  and  precipices  still  prevented  the  wagons  from 
t  ave  ing  within  from  five  to  eight  miles  of  the  Niobrara  Zf  here  Mi 

tSnS  Xtn\V<^''tt''  ""'''''-    ''''  ^^^^^^"  alsTt'ia'^lecT'lo^ig 

ai^  Sectrng  ftsds.  '  "''''  ^^^"^^'""^  ^he  character  of  the  rock! 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Keya  Paha,  the  main  iiartv  wifl>  thp 

accompany  him,  but  on  arriving  at  the  place  of  separation  we  found 
the  same  geological  formation  and  characteristics  as^^eCew  to  exist 


22 


KXPLOKATIONS  IN  NEHRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


at  the  mouth  ;  n.Hl  m  f ho  iiiU'rvfnii.K  (lintarKU,  whh  only  sixty  .niU-s,  h<. 
Uul  iiotUcctn  It  lU'rmsai.v  to  lioowv  it.  '"lu.i,  im 

Fort  KaiHli.ll  was  ivac'lir.l  on  tho  iHt  of  NovhiiIut,  and  the  m-ort  w.m 

Ihiy  con,n,an,l.n«  tho  post,  and  ih..  otiuT  o«|,..V.s  <„  t |n,  HvZ  [      n  ,    v 
j"Hl    talu.  th.s  o(..aHi.MMo  a.l<n,,wh.dp.  n.v  ind.l,t.dru^ss  to ^^^^^^^^^^^ 

Uso  sets  ot  ol)snvationM  lor  nio.,n  ^^lalinalions  w.uc  ol.rainc.l  \wiv 

inun,  IS  IJ.so  ,{.|/^  ^vith  a  piobal.lo  limit  oli'iror  olahout  H' 

lIu'paitvNotont  troin  Foil  K'andall  on  tlio  ^fli  of  N.ivon.her  and 
Nniv<..v..d  tho  ronte  to  Wioax  Cily,  which  was  reached  on    h'V  /^'t 
soason    K.in^;  far  mlvancod,  no  stean.l.oat  was  .xpect.-d   and  riv  r 

wasinllof  ll.,a,.nj,ic..    Th.  weather  as  we  tiavele<l  o     tnvanl  For 
Leayenwortli  l.e<-aine  very  severe,  and  the  river  became  Iro/ei  over    s 
ar  down  as  Haint  Joseph's.     Daring  this  time  we  made  r     i      a   .^e 
ut  a  in.  d  spell  ot  weather  eominj;  on  made  the  road  so  heavv  that  with 
he  Kreatest  exer  .on  we  hardly  accomplished  ten  miles  a  (lay.     Duri  il 
tins  time  the  health  of  the  party  sntfered  sev(Mely  fn.n.  i.i  1  ien/a      We 
reaclR^l  Fort  Leavenworth  on  the  4th  of  December,  and  we  e  i'o  •tnimte 
enough  to  meet  therewith  a  steamboat,  by  which  weproceelcHl  to  H^^^^^^^^^^^ 
Louis,  and  thence  by  railroad  to  Washing  on.  l»'«^tcuca  to  Saint 


:■  .itil 


M 


CHAPTER  11. 

PHYSICAL  GEOGRAIMIV  OF  NEBRASKA;   rilARAOTEU   OF  THE  SOIL  AND 
RESOURCES  OP  THE  COUNTRY. 

th  Jir/i!', '''^■' {•'''''''IV''  ^'-^''"''""tions  have  nowhere  extended  west  of 
the  lObth  meridian,  there  are  certain  points  west  of  it  to  which  I  would 
direct  attention.  The  positions  of  the  Missouri  and  YeSt^.mr  v^^^^^^ 
of  this  meridian  and  north  of  the  40th  degree  of  north  latit m lo  h-i^ 
been  well  exam  ned  by  Lewis  and  Clark  and  under  Go^rnor  Steve^.s 
and  the  valuable  information  they  obtaine.l  is  widely  knowi^  Thrsec' 

sZh  ?lT.'wV^^''''r  *•'"  ^':'^  ^'^''''""^  '"  ^^'^  >'«»-^»'  «"<l  the  43d  in  the 
south,  the  JO(,th  meridian  in  the  east,  and  the  dividing  line  between  the 
waters  ot  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic,  in  the  west,  is  comparath!^    un 
known,  except  from  the  accounts  afforded  by  tn.pping'    Xs^Tho 
in  formation  given  of  it  on  the  map  of  Lewis  .fnd  Clark  fs  deriv'^  fnt 
this  latter  source  ;  as  is  also  that  on  Colonel  Bonneville's  man  nublinbed 
wi  h  Jrving's  work  on  "Adventures  in  the  liocky  Mountains,"  I'       t. 
these  are  our  most  authentic  sources  of  information.    These  mans  i.ave 
been  generally  disregarded  by  s.ibsequent  map-makers,  and  r  S  ;  to 
the  map  I  compiled  for  the  Pacific  Kailroad  Ollic.,  there  lave  ber,  n 
mountains  represented  about  the  source  of  the  Yellowstone     From    ^ 
q nines  1  made  ot  trappers  in  ISo.!,  1  became  convinced  of  the  existenc^^. 
ot  these  mountains,  ar  1  -^.presented  them  accordinglv,  endeavorinJ^  to 

S^wUhUn;';^-""V?»  r  ^^«^^«/«"^  dark's  maVaml  Bonnl^llli: 
map  with  that  whi.  n  i  !..<d  .  .ocured  from  traders  and  trapDers     In  do 

;;'if^f.',V"^'l"'"-^«^^'^^^-<!  '!l^  ^,%\i-rn  Mountains  perhaps\oo  ?{tr  to  jl^ 

P^airSn  U;;flSSf  ^'  ""''^''•""  ^'^^""""'^  ''  thelnyanKura 

Leaving  out  of  consideration  for  the  present  the  smaller  detached 

mountain  masses,  and  begu.ning  with  the  main  range  of  The  iSkv 


EXPLORATIONS    IN    XEHRAHKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


^  Hixty  inilt'M,  lio 


23 


THE  SOIL  AND 


of 

I 


M.Min  ,ni,H,  ,„,  tlM,  4()tl,  imrall..!,  w,.  (i,,,!  tlwW  n.stcn,  hum,  to  haM,  n 
(l.n..tioi.   lu-aily  northwest  HI..I  southeast,  u.mI  tl...  ru.,ir.,  .TOHsi  « tJ.« 

H(M,  lat.t  de,  40,)  ,„st  south  ot  whu-ti  it  lorinH  hi^h,  suovv-covoml  iM-aks 
i  .  M  mo  ot  .nounrau.H  ,m  brolu,,,  through  «;;aiu  by'tho  Jiig  Horn  iC" 
a.Kl  the  ir.ounta.Ms  receive  the  nan.e  of  Hijr  Horn  Mountains  The 
sm.theast  ter,ni,,ns  of  the  lU^  Horn  lountai,;.  sinks  into  e  evat^l 
tahltMan.l  prairie,  and  the  ranjje,  perhaps,  reappears  a«aiu  as  the  I  m 
nue  Monntams  (Houth  of  the  hit.t.ule  of  Fort  Laran.h,  the  11  e  ./f  tl  e 
"%':''".,  "".'\"/..J^*^  ""»'"**""«  i«  "«'a«'lv  north  an<l  south.) 

llie  llla(!k  Hills,  whose  ;jeo-rraphi('al  |><rsiti(Mi  we  have  d.'terinined,  are 
tie  most  eastern  portion  of  what  has  heretofore  heen  eonsi.lered  a  part 

0  the  ^M'eat  mountain-region  west  of  the  Mississippi ;  ami  it  is  worthv 
Of  no.e  f'Ht,  It  a  line  be  drawn  from  them  to  the  Little  K.Mjkv  Moiint- 
mns,  on  u,e4rith  parallel,  which  are  the  nmst  eastern  portion  in  tl  at     t- 

1  nde,  lus  1...  will  be  parallel  to  the  line  of  the  main  t'r<,ntV>  I  e  .  u  . 
aiiis  .vhich  I  have  already  traced.  What  is  still  more  signitlciunt  is  t  at 
«t  .  .rraight  line  be  drawn  from  the  mouth  of  the  Yell,>w8to ne  to  the 
mouth  of  the  KaiKsas  Kiver,  it  will  also  be  parallel  to  ^  ?i^ Z' ietb  e 
mentioned,  and  will  have  about  an  equal  portion  of  the  Missouri  on  each 

siuo  OI   it. 

The  line  of  the  east  base  of  the  main  mountain  mass  is  the  hiirhest 
f  course,  ot  any  portion  of  the  plains,  and  at  Kaw  Hide  Peak,**  near 

i  n  L;  T"!?«'  f  ^''"^-  '''^^y  ^^^^  elevation,  as  determined  by  the  hor 
izontally  stratified  Tertiary  deposits,  though,  owing  to  great  denudation 
the  average  height  there  of  this  line  of  the'  plaint  will  not  be  so  great 
Ihe  same  line,  near  the  49th  parallel,  has  probably  a  s()niewhat  less 
e  evatiou.  The  lowest  line  of  the  plains  is  tlmt  along^  le  Missou  and 
s  elevation,  1.tken  near  Bijou  Hills,  (a  point  about  on  the  perprdicuTr 
to  It  from  Fort  Laramie,)  is  about  2,130  feet,  which  does  not  differ  ma 
terially  from  its  he.ght  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.    The  slope  of 

n  •  i  !f .P'T  .■  ^  ^.'''"•'1  (^'^i"^'  *"  ''  direction  perpendicular  to  the  lines 
ot  (Miual  elevation)  has  therefore  its  line  of  greatest  descent  in  a  north- 
east  direction,  and  north  of  the  Niobrara;  this  is  the  direction  in  which 
n  ma,or%  of  the  rivers  flow  till  they  join  with  the  Missouri  or  Yellow 
stone.  To  the  south  of  the  Niobrara  the  greatest  slope  of  the  plai  sTs 
to  the  southeast,  toward  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  this  is  the  direction 
pursued  there  by  nearly  all  the  rivers  of  the  plains.  Thus  tl  e  Srar 
would  seem,  as  it  were  to  run  along  a  swell  or  ridge  on  the  sSe 

m  I-e  Zf f  "^'' ^M*'"  '"""'''  *■'"'"  *'^«  Missouri  to  the  mouSnt 
m.ke  nowleiHi  an  angle  greater  than  one-half  degree  with  the  horizon. 

inte^^eiohS  ^^T7':'  ''^^'-'^'^  to  tliis  change  of  slope  which  occurs 
s  tHb.  h,H.«  H.  ""i  the  course  of  the  Niobrara  is  the  shortness  of 
i^tiibutaues,  the  surface  drainage  seeming  to  be  away  from  and  not 

toward  Its  banks.    A  result  of  this  is  the  absence  of  the  amphi  hea  er 
ow,     A'^;;'^'^^  rivers  generally  have,  and  which  enable  us  to  look 

uown  at  the  stream  often  many  miles  distant.    Through  the  greater 

riou  ot  It  as  you  approach,  till  within  close  proximity,  and  then  vou 

di'd  tZl?""  f'"'?'''')  ^'^^**f  ^^"^^  «^»tch,  at  the  dista-n'ce  of  two  h^^n 
hai,.",..    .        •■••••••■^"  -.c^;:^,  oh{.>  uviciiiHi  there  a  glimpse  of  the  river 

'  e  0  V,  so  much  is  it  hidden  by  the  precipitous  blufl^s  which,  at  the 
fS  th.f^  tri  ""'  V"  ^vf  ter-edge.  So  strongly  was  I  impressed  ^ith  he 
conr.«  1  o  T  r  ^^^'""'i8<'  could  never  have  been  directed  along  its 
coui*,e  80  as  to  have  worn  out  this  channel,  that  1  think  a  portion  of 


24 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEBRASKA   AND    DAKOTA. 


In 

I  :>l 

til 


:| 


• 

it  uj.rst  have  orioinatod  in  a  fissure  in  the  rocks,  which  the  waters  I,nvA 
since  en  arffcd  and  made  more  nnilonn  in  si^e,  S  whiclf  thV^ol? 
iiatnre  o    the  rock  wonld  render  easy  of  ac..,nu)li8lunenr  It  is  wort  v 

to  tins ,   White  Ivn  er  having  there  cut  its  way  entirely  throuoh  the  Ter 
tiary  formation,  Hows  ah)n-  the  Cretaceous,  while  the  be(   o\heNn 
brara  IS  ,n  the  Miocene  Tertiary,  the  Pliocene  lormi  iff  the  bU  ti^     T h^' 
beu  o    the  >.iobrara  is  also,  in  tuo-thirds  of  its  uppei^c^rse  f ro.n    m 
Ihe  soiuh.  '''"  '''  '"'  "'  ''''  '''''''  ''''''^  ^'^  col-iesponS^  pZ t 'at 

soil'Vs''ve7vtn<rv  'lo  .TT^'T '^■*^">^^^  ''^''''^'  ^''^^  ^'^^^'^^^^  flows  the 
soi  IS  ^cl.^   sand.s    so  that  what  ram  or  snow  falls  sinks  under  tl.« 

^ir  ace  and  none  is  lost  by  evaporation.     This  is  gradu    ly  al     oured 

hto  the  streain  by  the  springs  in  the  ravines,  and  in  this  wav  th    r her 

Ih^lnrlJ^st  sKt^lJf^S!^^^  ^-^  --•'  -  ^^>'^^>"  times  S  l^'o^Z 

jrt^r-p^^^^ir  17?.---  s;;'r  on  SS 

th^fu^fnZ'f'''V^^'''']  ^^'^  ^''^'^t  ^^'''^''''y  formation  have  developed 
the  tact,  that  since  the  close  of  the  Pliocene  period,  the  eastern  b  se  of 
the  mountains,  which  is  the  western  limit  of  this  formji to  1  as  been 
elevated  trom  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  the  eastJriran  ti  is  wit  out 
S'?^e't;"^"'^S^^r:^f^'!  ^'^r  of  upheaval,  slich  astcbnaS 
wh  ch  t  e  iwi.  /  ^  "T ^  evidence  is  in  the  immense  denudation 
Milieu  the  lertary  has  undergone  probably  while  this  elevation  v^as 
in  progress,  and  which  causes  of  denudation  nnistl^^vereeX^^^^^ 
ally  extinguished,  as  there  is,  at  the  present  time,  no  foix^e  it  work 
suffaci.nt  to  have  atlected  them.  The  evidence  goes  to  shot  thaUhe 
eleva  ion  wh.di  ,as  taken  place  since  the  close  of  tL  PHSif,  er  od 
has  iM^en  in  Nebraska  remarkably  uniform,  and  along  a  Ih.e  n  -en 
era!  direction  northwest  and  southeast,  and  nearly  coinciStVthThe 
ranges  of  mountains  previously  upheaved  toiucuient  ^,lth  the 

neriod  ms^'hI  ^'"'  '•  ""JJ''^  '^^^'''  ^'^'^  ^'^^^^'^^^  upheavr.i  at  the  same 

S  IS    'The  r  eolo'w;;!.?  ^^T'""'"''^  '^'"^  ^^^'  '''  '^^  <^'«««  «f  t^^«  ^^ 
ceous.     1  e  geological  evidence  goes  to  show  that  the  Pliocene  and 

Miocene  Tertiary,  south  of  the  Shyenne,  are  fresh  water  form"  ion ^ 

to  uiis  basni.    In  the  present  relative  position  of  the  different  n-irts 
ot  these  plains,  the  elevation  of  the  Pliocene  Tertiary  tbrmS  L^now 

enife'^luld'  ir!"'  f  ''''  ""'^^'^^^^'^  «»^l  the  Crecac'eous  on    he  Shy 
enne  should  have  been  covered  with  it.    This  mi<Tht  however  h^L 

^hZun\r'ry'f  since  have  all  been  denuded^iwa7    N^nl^^^^ 
se  nr  t:  1  h' A''r''''T  '"^^'^  '-r  '^'••*^^^^'>'  «"ffl^^iently  higl[  to  have 
nSh      in    still    I'i^'  n!'''  '""'^^^' ''  '''■^•"  *''^  Lignite  Tertiary  to  the 
theTm^    ih.    .  necessary  to  suppose  that  this  last  elevation  of 

north  ot  it.  '  «o^"ewhat  greater  near  the  i2d  parallel  than  (o  the 

or  Ji^^iii^e  n!^;;^!;;^irt  :s.:l:crti;^ri^i^;^^^i;~ 


)TA. 

the  waters  liave 
which  tlio  solt 
it.  It  is  worthy 
iin  ih  longitude 
he  point  nearest 
thr()u<)h  the  Ter- 
bed  oi'  the  Nio- 
:he  blutis.  The 
ourse,  from  .'JOO 
Hiding  points  at 

brara  flows  tlie 
inks  under  the 
uallj  all  poured 
is  way  the  river 
les  it  is  cue  of 

»  which  I  have 
actical  interest, 
measure,  to  fill 
the  north  and 
iouuected  levels 

have  developed 
eastern  base  of 
atioii,  has  been 
d  this  without 

as  inclination 
nse  denudatiou 

elevation  was 
e  been  gradu- 
force  at  work 

show  that  the 
Miocene  period 

line  in  a  geu- 
;ident  v;ith  the 

.1  at  the  same 
of  the  Creta- 
Pliocene  and 
er  formations  j 
lieni  boundary 
different  parts 
mation  is  now 
8  on  the  Shy- 
however,  have 
North  of  the 
high  to  have 
^'ertiary  to  the 
t  elevation  of 
lei  than  (o  the 

these  changes 
fertiary  north 
iMiocene  beds 
he  age  of  the 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA.       .  25 

'llic  xN  i„bra,a  K.ver,  lyinK  on  a  ,„ost  desirable  line  of  eoi.Tmi  nie  fio,     mi 

1  .1.1  A  ""^^'  '^"*^  t''<^  communication  between  this  stiPim 

ami  the  P  atte  greatly  obstructed  and  in  some  places^ntire  v  cut  off 
Ihe  subiect  ot  routes  and  communications  I  shall  her^af^er  take  up  in 

For  nearly  all  of  the  knowledge  of  the  age  of  the  geological  for 
mat.ons  o  the  portions  of  Nebraska  developed  by  my  exStions  I 
am  in.lebted  to  the  services  of  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden  a.T Mr  P  B  Z;! 
o"  1^  AcS.:^:?  N  :;-<'^' -'--I-f-.  PablisJed  In  ^^I^oS^^^ 
f  the  ,  H  c  nil  ii^"^""'-^  Sciences,  have  already  made  known  some 
ot  tlie  principal  d  scoveries  and  results  due  to  their  labors  Or 
Ha,.len  was  the  only  one  of  those  mentioned  who  acVon.plnlS'me  in 

.1  my  owu  obseiviitioiis  in  the  Held."  Tlio  northeast  nortion  n7  mS 
bounda,y  of  the  Tertiary  fornmtion  between  tto  Wh  eSsiolSa 
^3  a  ,d    S5?  "'S  '""/"^  "'""*•  ."!="=<'■■"'"«  '»  "'>■  own  Ob  erva  tons™ 

eeit'ain  Sj  t'irSiSSf  H^  T.S^o^'Z!'^^''  tf:^^^^ 
nplimvec  sedin.entary  Ibrn.ations  which  eneirc^  tiie  igneois  r„°L  o? 
tlie  Black  H.lls  is  much  more  developed  on  the  western  thin  on  the 
nSr.enX'^'.r':'^*''  *''?r<li«r"'^«  "'  "iP-on  £  westernTeit' 

LriT'"  "'">' ''"s  l>eeB  said  it  will  be  seen  that  the  surface  of  Ne 
.nonntar""  "™  ''''"'  """"^^-'tat  of  the  plains  auSthat  of  Sfe 

ofThlSlSl-?amf  ,>';*"''''  '"■?  <^''";F««1  of  "early  horizontal  strata 
Ihe.Mst  section  extends  from  the  southern  boundary  north,  nearly 


jjlliiliji 

ir 


vM 


m 


26 


KXI'J.ORATIONH    IN    NEBRASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


(roil 


timioiis  to  flic  Uih  j.iiialh'l,  und  cojit 


viill.'.vs  of  (lie  Phiftc,  Loii].  Fork,  Niol 
t'xn-pt  111  Ww.  iiiiiiuMliiih!  vjilN'ys  of  M 
oC  iHHul  soil,  iiiifurally  inij^jitfid  \ 
tilths  of  inij,'jitioii,  iiiii(;li   of  tl 


iiins  ii  liirjLja  jioitioti  of  (lie 


Hiini,  and  \Vlii(«'  Jtiveis.     Ih 


10  sdeiuiis,  whicli 


re 


>.V  Hpiiiio,s  (loiii  tli(^  blulls.  Ol 


ire  coMipostul 


SIIHCM'J)- 


va(ion.     ]nJo  valiiahl 


O     III 


w  <-ouii(ry  is  sandy  and  unlit  for  ndt 
mt'ial    or   j-ood    luiildin;;-  stone  hi.s  Iw  i-ii  d 


n  \         .•  H  ''''.H  '"■''  ^'*  ••''  '■'•"""l  <•'*'  «*i"<l  "ills,  wl 

.nil  nor  li  o(  (ho  Plutte  of  no'  less  Mian  L'(MM>(»  s.,ua 
lulls  r,n  the  north  heoi,i  lu'tueen  the  White  and  Niol 
•'xteiid  south  probahly  beyond  the  Ark 


is- 


iieli  oecnpy  an 


s(piare  miles.     These 
•rara  rivers,  ami 


Miein,  they   vary  in   iiei«,dit  from   ]()  to'  i>"(i()'| 


iiisas.     Where  we  have  visited 


|>oitioniireraii-edin   ridyes  runniiif.'  e.ist  and  west-  I 


W^t,  and  in  the  westei 


II 


yon  are  rre(|iieii(ly  oblio-rd  to  cross  tl 


which  are  also  sand,  are  not  cont 


)nt  in  travelin;;;- 
m,  as  the  intermediate  valleys. 


1 


ork  many  of  the  lakes  of  water  ( 


iiMions.     About  the  sources  of  I 


salts 


oui 


und  unfit  to  drink,  and  our  sull 


■"'III* 
mill  thiMii  are  iaipre<''nat«'d  wiM 


always  hold  a  prominent  pi 


onnys  in   <^\ploriny-  them   will 


iHace  in  our  memories.     The  present  f 


or  these  hills  is-  niHinly  if  not  entn.iy  <i;  e  t     (h^  m'^  ^" mm' the 
j,Mass  protects  the  surface  the  sand  .  oes  not  dril^f  b  t  ifTi 
moved,  the  wind  whirls  th  "  "  '  '^' 


lis  IS  re- 


hol 


tvs.     1  therefore  look  upon  them  as  uttor] 


o  sand  in  the  air,  and  often  excavates  deep 


y  impracticable  for 


otrailn>ad;ibrshouhlunya;(^mpVi;m:;d^^^^ 

dHSni^;;^:""''' ''"  "'"^  """'^^ ""  "I*  ^'- -^^«  wuh'ind^a^  witl; 

of  ^^  hi  e  Kiver,  s(,  celebrated  for  their  vertebrate  lemains     S  loSv 
b  m  l^ld  ^:d  fiirili"'  /""'^^  l'a«  l>e-i.applied  is  il.  ^Ste.ft'lai^l^i^on^ 
1  m    .1     ,;     \      -^^      ''''^.   *"'«■'  "'  "  ^l'»'^'<^t'^>'i  northeast  and  southwest 
an.   abt)ut  sixty  miles  wide.    The  term  "  Bad  Lands  "  was  -ive      o  this 
section   by  the  traders,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  ffc7tti  .  .•     r  '^^^ 

wh'jf  iij^e'^'urr.:!,;;;  ,^"*^-^-'t  «^'  ^'-  ^->h^icarn";nat;or  o 

Allien  riiese  J>a(l  Lands  l)eloiiy'  is  verv  o-rejir   •mil  mu  tUn. ,.,....,.  :, 
Piopor  <,iie  to  be  applied  to  tl^  wholl^c^'J^  l  s     n'mi^'^ Z  Snn  e"" 

of'H.e')?;^hi;:  I'i;"'  "T  'r;'"'"  ^^^*'"'''^*>  '^y  '^  ^''""^  the  milidle  c  ur^ 
V.      !.  ,*''"• ,  '"  ^'"'  l*'"'^  ***  ^^''*t«  1^*^'*'^-  «<>'»»^  «t"^  beautiful  val- 

rts  H  .  •'  "r ""Vi>  '•"■V^^"«''^^  i"  tJie  Far  West,  thoufjh,  like  otier 
|M  ts,  f  le  majority  of  the  country  is  barren.  Tlies^  Had  Lands  ((•thi 
W  hi  cKiver  country  have  fre.iuently  been  spoken  of  us  a  ^i  "t  <m ive  r 
sepulchre,  from  the  amount  of  bones  found  there       m      his  ll^ne  of 


speech  has  somewhat  tended  to 


^ive  a  gloomy  idea  of  the  place  which 


It  does  not  es,»ec,ally  deserve,  as  it  abomids  in  the  niost  be     t m    md 
varu>d  fcums  in  endless  variety,  giving  the  most  stri      'v  an  u   "iU 
e fleets  Of  lij._ht  ami  shade,     it  has  also  been  <lescribe,l  a,s         i   o'«     j? 

uio   i.iack  Jlills   which  IS  not  the  case,  many  portions  of  these  IJ id 

he  t-i^r'niM 'T'  ^'''V"^  ^"r  "'^'-'-'-^  --!t.y  betweei'them    n 
J''<;'-   "ill:Sti-om  which  the  portions  on  White  liiver  are  disfuit 

tuils  al  lost  uiiinterrui.ledly  east  to  the  mouth  of  (he  Keva  I'dVi 
and  scmth    beyond  the    Platte;  and  an    instance  of  the  shi     u  «■     I  ! 

,,    ". ,' '"''•     ^^'^'   f«"»«   '•  i>ad  Lands     is   lieiierallv  aitoiied    Uv 

he   nuers  toany  section  of  the  prairie  country  ^vliere  n.      '      e  d^ 
lu  nit,  and  in  this  way  to  parts  of  many  distinct  yeolooical  torn  itions 

I'liir.:' '^r""'"^'"^'  ';?'^''!''^^"*  to  mislead,  should  norll^lT^ 
1  shall  se  It  occasionally,  1  use  only  the  name  of  the  country  as  it  w  is 
originally  given  to  mean  bad  land  to  travel  throu-h.   ^'""'"•^'  "'  '^  ''''' 


)TA. 

1  i>()rti(>n  of  the 

JiivcMs.     1 1  ore, 

I  are  ('(unpost'd 

il nil's,  or    SllHCM'J)- 

iiiilit  for  nilti- 
0.  hits  Ix  <'ii  (lis- 

liicii  o<!cii|)y  an 
■0  niilcH.  These 
rai'ii  riv<'is,  and 
>ye  have  visited 
in  the  western 
nt  in  tra veli !!;;•• 
lediate  valleys, 
i)nr(!es  of  Li)n|> 
|)re<'nat«'d  with 
in;;-  them  will 
i  present  form 
d.  Where  the 
t  if  this  is  re- 
^Kcavates  deep 
ble  for  any  line 
surface,  which 
h  sand  as  witli 

iivaises  Terres, 
.     The  locality 
c tent  a bout  one 
md  southwest, 
H  siven  to  this 
getting  a  road 
fortnation  to 
name  is  an  ini- 
e  the  term  ex- 
middle  course 
beautiful  val- 
fjh,  like  other 
Lands  of  the 
vast  <?TOve  or 
this  li<4ure  of 
le  place  which 
beautiful  and 
:  and  pleasin-;- 
having  sunk 
i'  like  steps  to 
of  these  Uad 
een  them  and 
r  are  distant 
!i  belongs  ex- 
Keya  I'aha, 
striking   ap- 
-1  louse  j{i)('k 
\'  applied   by 
■oads  are  dii'- 
l  formations, 
used.     When 
try,  as  it  was 


KXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


27 


J  he  .sccoiid  .sccUoH   is   the  (Jretncoous  fcn-mation,  fonning  the  level 
<M,untry  at  the  base  of  the  lilack  Hills,  the  valley  of 'the  Shyenn    K  ver 
ami  the.  .nunediate  valley  of  the  Missouri  River,  from  Heart  Uiver  to 
|hei5ighioux.     Inth.s  section  the  soil  is  clayey;  and  wherever  there 
IS  a  sullHMency  ot  rain,  or  streams  can  In-,  found  t)  irrigate  tl  e  lai       it 
will  be  productive.    The  great  drawback  to  its  fertility  Is  a  wair^  o 
t  .nely  rains.     A  portion  of  this  formarion,  from  the  B^  liom     "the 
h l.yenne,  is  composed  of  black  shale,  and  contains  much  .^^dine  matter 
which  renders  the  water  in  places  unlunilthy,  and  adds  to  the  si     t^^ 
o   the  soil  aU)ng  the  bluffs  of  the  streams,  where  saline  springs  a.-^  com- 
■  on.     In  this  section,  too,  there  are  no  valuable  minerals  or  Soo    bu  Id- 
mg  stone,  except  that  furnished  by  the  bowlders. 

iJn^.  ]hw/''Tr'  '''  V^i'"^'^^''^'"'^'  ^^^^«""1«  ""'t''  '^"<1  west  to  the 
Jntish  me.  Ihe  want  ot  rain,  which  is  felt  in  this  area  even  more 
than  in  the  one  to  the  south  of  it,  renders  it  nearly  barren.  Evm^ 
where  t  hrough  this  formation,  beds  of  lignite  are  to  be  fou  (h  soinetimes 

J^  e\    uks^  Hh   ^t?'"  '  'T'-     '''?  ^'"^"^•'  appearance  oM^.uth   ail"  g 
tilt  Daiiks  ot  the  streams,  shows  that  in  former  times  these  beds  h'lve 

h^ on'Kiw '?^  "■^^^'  ^"^1 '"  ^?--  -•«  ^-^^  bur^d  ^,  -uli 
those  on  1  omler  Kiver  are  said  to  be  on  fire  at  this  time      There  is 

g^olbuiSg  stiner  '    '"  ''"  "^^"'^  ^^••^  ^^"^^^^^  ^""-'^  ^'-  --'y 

foiimr'"^^'  '''^  ^"'''^  ""^  Nebraska  good  clay  for  making  brick  can  be 

The  (Carboniferous  formation  is  developed  iu  a  small  part  of  the  south- 

mS'of7)f;T  "1"  ""'^^^r''  ''  N^briska,  and  I  wi'dtuote  f^^"   0 
re  01   of  Dr.  JIa.yden  in  relation  to  the  coal  of  this  section : 

wheie  ^  X  "i  ,n!l  ""^^  *'  ^'"^  *"^'^?^  J^^'"^  '^"^^^  «^  t^^e  Missouri 
ni  .f  i!     ^^   Innestones  are  exposed.    Ascending  the  vallev  of   the 

o'ZFTlCn^U^  ''ir  ^"•'^"«^^  developed'asfar'as  tL  moS 

coV  l/vf  P.„  ?;      ?^^"i:V^«  the  country.     "Several  small  seams  of 
coal  haAe  been  found  in  these  liniestmies  at  Bellevue  and  other  lo- 

S  SitrVil   :/''/^-^  ^S  ''^^  ^1^^"^-     ^^-^    ten  ndlc's  above 
n  t  i       Lf   .  '^  ^""'^  ""^  ^''^y  ^'"'^  carbonaceous  shale,  2  feet 

ore  1  by    hetnh  uliZf.  T  "T  '"'    ''''^''''  ''^^''     '^'^'^^  wan  consiS 
ibl    bed  nf       .?         ?  '''^  ••  '^""^«»ent  proof  of  the  existence  of  a  work- 
able bed  ot  coal  m  the   vicinity.     The  evidence  now  noints   fo   H  « 

u'f  Zv  bold  "r:'«i"'"^'^  '"""^^r^  """>"« '°  ^^^^^^'m^: 

mcs,   niL.v   Uold    a   i>()sition    above    the  workable   beds    of  co'd     •md 

h^VuiUiini  li;;:'^'^:;  -'l-^^^^--^  «f  --l  wiU^Tfc^lInd  mlkh  « 
beeir   mno   /  1.  T  ^^'^^^''^'^'i-     A  bed  of  coal  of  inferior  quality  has 
oun  wioi  giit  near  Leavenworth  Citv,  Kansas  Territorv  but  ir  hnl<l«  « 

N^iin^-^^S' dii>:i'r  'rv"^  ""'^^^'^"^^  '^'  tii^^s^  ^J;^^ 

W  ..'.'.  ^\      t'^^^^^trata  being  toward  the  northeast." 

to  expec    Unt'wo;  'Ihl   T't  '^'^'^'^''^'"•^^^''^^^  ^^'"'^''^^  ^here  is  room      . 
otxi)tcttlMt  workable  beds  ot  coal  may  yet  be  found  here   bnf  ..<- 

l.resent  we  know  of  no  facts  against  the  opinion  give  Dr  Via  hII 

cii'';;iti;;:';:;!.^^:i:;r-:j^ 

i^t;;!^^:.i^r..:'s-i^ 

1    n       1,:  fi:.;}  »         %  ^'l'^  coal-seams  in  the  Platte,  mentioned  above, 

,  iviiN^.pn,;''hi";i;:ii;;^"^^'"^  ^^^  ^'^  ^"^^^^^"^  ^>-^-'»«^^  ^nose  beds  th^' 

The  section  of  .Nebraska  which  is  novv  being  occupied  by  settlers  has 


I:''': 


28 


KXI'I.OKATIONH    IN    NIOIIRASKA    AM)    DAKOTA. 


Icrhic  s(mI,iu.I  MiirpjiMscI  l>y  niiy  poiHoii  of  1  ho  piiiiiics  oI'IIm.  MissisHippi 

''•^'  J.'.'    ".'.'.V!'!"*'*'''.'  .^•'''''""  ^^'"    '"'    '<»'""'    Hie  fiMliU',  and  wooded 

ic  worxicd  piirls  of  the  vidlcy  of 


\idl 

v;dl«'.v  of  llio  lOlk  Horn  K'ivcr,  nrid  nil  tl 

tin'  river  I'lnllc.      In  the  scnithci  n   pintion  ol'  it  ;;oo(l   Imildinu  sti 


riirniNlicd  by  tlic  Cnilionilci 


ons  r<u'ks. 


inc  iH 


A  Her  pHNsinj-  |o  the  west  ol'|h<>  l»7th  nicrid 


iiiii  we.  heyin  to  meet  with 


siini.v  tracts,  eMp(.<Miilly    near   the    iL'd    parallel,   in    which    latitinle   tho 
sand-hdl.s  ex(en«l   th(Unrt.hest,  east.     In    my  former  reporh   I  said   that, 

but,  a  small   portion  of  Nebraska,  wjiich  I    had  visi*--'   • ^■■''-      ' 

cnKivalion  W(vst  (d'  llie!)7th   meridian.     I  did   not 


'"       poifioii  of  NelirasUa,  winch  I    had  visited   is  Nus<!ept,il»Ie,  of 

mean  to  imjdy  that 


ood  land  on  thes<>  prairies  wonid  not,  be  found  west,  of  if,  for  tl 


Icrtilei  tiacts  as  far  west  as  th«^  IMMIi  merid 


icre  aro 


slieams  that,  an^  valimble,  and  <'OMtaiii  wood 


mil,  ill  the  lUMjjfhborhood  of 


meiits.     In  stalin'>- that    the  Terril 


('ii(Mif,Mi   to  support  settle- 


,ory  is  overspread  by  powerful  trilies 


ol  roviiif-'  savages,  and  is  only  adaptt'd  to  a  life  siicli  as  theirs,  1  <li(l 
not,  mean  to  imply  that  white  men  could  not  occupy  it,  but  that  if 
Ihey  «>v(>r  did  they  wonhl  have  io  lead  a  life  similar  to  that  of  tho 
Indians,  depen<lin;4  mamly  lor  s|d)sistence,  not  upon  the  buffalo,  but 
heir  own  herds  and  tloeks  for  support  ;  and  this  is  most  emphatically 
line  ol   the  re^rion   between   the   !»!tth   meridian  and  the   base  of  the 


mountain>> 


Ihere  isoui^  I  hiiiK' concerning'  the  lon.nitndes  of  phuM's  west  of  tlio 
Alissoun  K'iver  which  causes  many  persons  to  deceive  themselves,  and 
IS  worthy  (d-  mention  here.  A  common  idea,  is  that  the  course  of  1  ho 
iVIissouri  IS  nearly  south  from  Sioux  City  to  lA'avenworth  (Mty,  an<l  that 
H«'ftUMs  may  .^o  as  far  west  «d'th«'  one  place  as  the  other  and'tlnd  fertil 
lands,  lint  the  conrs<>  o{'  tlu^  iMissour 
to  the  east  that  Sioux  City  is  o:iIy  lift 


lint  (he  c(uirs<>  ot'  the  i\Iiss(»uri  between  these  points  is  so  much 


ecu  miles  east  of  the  nu^ridian  of 
IS  as  far  west  as  tho  western  limit  of  the 


Korl  lliley,  ami   K,ut  Ifandall 
(.Iross  'i'imbers  on  the  ;{."»! h  i)arallel. 

Though  tiii>  western  portion  of  tiie  i)rairie8  of  Nebraak.. 
inferi«>r  to  that  of  <'orrespoudin^'  meridians  in  Ivansas  ami  Nonl 


11  is  not  much 


'I 


«'\as,  tin>i 


leru 


irreclaimabU 
the  streams. 


e  IS  no  disfiuisino'  the  fact  that  a  j^reat  i)ortion  of  it  is 


dcseit,  with  only  a,  little  Nvood  and  cultivable  land  along 

!.'.'i\.^.'!"'^'*'"^  ''!\'   ''''''^,  "V*N  ^"^^^  '"'   '"■^'iirieieney  of  timely  rains;  2d, 

•roper  constituents :  .id, 


over  iar<je  areas  the  soil  <loes  not  possess  tlie  j  . 
the  severity  of  the  Itiu.-v,  cold  winters  and  short 
mi.ulu   be  included  in  the  eloinls  ot 


on 


summers  ;  and  a  4th 

•nisshoppers  tliat  occasionally  do- 

I.     They  are  nearly  the  same  as  the  locusts 

u 


stroy  the  useful  y«'>ietati  

of  I<:.i»ypt,  and  no  one  who  has  not  traveled  ., 

f(U'  iiimself   can    appreciate   the  magnitude   of  tliesi 
Often  tliey  till  tiie  air  t 


on  the  i)rairie  and  see 


insect   swarms. 

or  many  miles  of  extent,  so  that  an  experienced 

ye  can   s,-aree  distuijiuish   their  appearance  from   that  of  a  shower  of 

may  bo 
nuvs  saw  them  above  liis  head  as 


liiin  (u-  the  smoke  of  a  prairie  fire.     Tiie  hei^'llt  of  tlieir  ili<'iit 
somewhat   appreciated,  as  :\Ir.   K.  ,Ia 


far  as  their  si/e  would  render  tii 


it'in  visible  wliilo  standing  on  the  top 
!,.;':'''"''/*'   '  .    I^H'Uy  Mountains,  8,.")00  feet  above  the  level  of  tho 

sea,  iu  tlio  region 
pers(ui    standing  in  one  of 


plains,  and  an  elevatiim  of  li,."»iUi  above  that  of  tin 
where  the  snow  lies    all  tli 


th< 


e    year, 


To  a 


^se  swarms  as  they  i)ass  «»ver  and  arouiul  him,  tlie  air  becomes  sou 


si.>ly  {.nrkened,  ;tnd  iho  souiui  {.loduced  by  their  wings  resembles 
that  ot  the  passage  of  a  train  of  cars  on  a  railroad  when  standing  two 
or  three  huiulred  yards  from  tiie  track.  T!ie  .Mormon  settlements'have 
suttered  more  from  the  ravages  of  these  insects  than  probably  all  other 
causes  combined.    Tiiey  destroyed  nearly  all  the  vegetables 'cultivated 


KXI'LOKATJONS    IX    NKMRASKA   AND    DAKOTA. 


29 


last  vcar  at  Fort  Uiindall,  and  i'xteii(UMl  tlioir  ravages  east  as  far  as 

It  .mist  bn  observed,  liowever,  that  ffood  grass  wdl  generally  be  found 
:ill  over  tliese  plains,  var.yinj,^  in  <|iiant,itv  and  kind  witli  dilferent  local- 
itM's,  and  that  the  (h'sert  eliaraet.'.r  of  the  country  is  not  like  that  found 
in  lli.i  d.'serts  on  (Jreen  Itiver  and  Snak*..  River,  west  of  the  South  Pass 
where,  even  a  sullleieney  f(>r  animals  cannot  be  found.  ' 

A  very  different  condition  of  soil,  water,  and   buihlinff-material  of 
I     stone  and  wo.xl,  exists  when  we  reach  the  mountain  region. 

Theljhielv  JIiil«,  or  more  properly  mountains,  Iving  l)ctwe(ui  the  forks 
ol  tliehhyenne,on  the  44th  i)arallel,  between  the  lO.Jd  and  lO.lth  me- 
ridians, cover  an  area  of  <i,0(H)  square  miles.  Their  basf^s  are  elevated 
Ironi  -,.i(M)  leot  to  .{,500  ieet,  and  the  highest  peaks  are  about  0,700  feet 
above  th(^  ocean  level.  ' 

TIm!  different  rocks  which  compose  these  mountains,  as  determiued  bv 
our  exploration,  are —  ^ 

I.  Afetamorphosed  azoic  rock,  including  granite. 
11.  Lower  Silurian,  (L'otsdam  sandstone.) 
III.  Devonian? 
J  v.  Carboniferous. 

V.  Permian. 
VI.  Jurassic. 
VII.  Cretaceous. 

.1  '^'l  *^'?«^"?'*  ^^\^:^,  t^'^  SiUirian  are  igneous  and  metamorphic,  and 
the  stratification  which  they  exhibit  stands  everywhere  nearly  vertical 
with  a  strike  varying  between  northeast  and  northwest.     So  constant 
IS  this  vertical  dip,  that  it  may  not  in  reality  indicate  primary  strati- 
i(!ation   but  some  mechanical  arrangement  due  to  the  molecular  forces 
brought  into  existence  during  its  cooling  from  the  heated  state.    All 
the  rocks,  froin  the  Silurian  to  the  close  of  the  Cretaceous,  apparently 
be  c.nformable  to  each  other.     Tho  shape  of  the  mass  is  elliptical ; 
the  direction  ot  t!ie  longest  line  of  this  or  major  axis  being  about  north 
-oo  west.    On  the  west  the  rocks  dip,  as  a  whole,  very  gently,  and  at  a 
d.s  ance  of  five  mi  es  from  the  foot  of  the  hills  the  Cretaceous  is  a;^>par 
eiitly  undisturbed  tbough  at  the  base  these  rocks  in  some  places  strand 
at  an  angle  of   45o      The  manner  in  which  this  rock  lies  suggests 
the  Idea  that  the  Cretaceous  probably  forms  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  ^i; levated  plateau  between  the  Black  Hills  and  Big  Horn  Mount- 
ains.    Ihe  dip  of  the  upheaved  rocks  on  the  west  side  is  as  a  whole 
very  gentle,  not  amounting  to  more  than  from  5o  to  15°,  and    con- 
S(M,ueutly     they  are    considerably    'eveloped,   and   form    more   than 
oiitiiair  the  mountain  mass  composing  some  very  high  ridges.    These 
rocks  have  a  much  greater  inclination  on  the  east  side  of  the  mouut- 
a  US    and  soon  disappear  under  the  Cretaceous,  forming  a  compara- 

^  no  ^"T."T  ^'^'1-  ^^^  ^''^^  ^''^^  «*•  ^^^  luountains  is  tiom  2,000  o 
d,000  feet  belcw  the  western.  ' 

The  rocks  seem  also  to  dip  mu(di  more  suddenly  down  on  the  south 
tiau  on  the  north  side.  The  strike  of  these  upheaved  strata  Tin 
.1  niost  every  direction  corresponding,  on  the  exterior,  nearly  with  that 
o       e  tangent  to  the  outline  of  the  mass,  and  on  the  interior  being  more 

"  '^^  -^  itt^KixjiiE  nitii  tuo  luiecLioii  or  the  iuii|ur  axiH. 

nbnufHrn,  '^li^'''''-  /«™^t'oii  is  that  the  upturned  rocks  break  off 
m  M^v^ii  •*  "^  ^'"^'^  ^^'''''""'^  ^^^  "'^^"^^  o^'  t'^e  mass,  and  leave  an 
m«  IvV-  1*^  '"  many  places  between  this  steep  slope  and  the  gentle 
th^  j!^^l.lT''''''^''l^'^\'''^  approach  the  interior.  In  these  valleys 
trie  best  loads  are  found,  and  one,  which  nearly  encircles  the  Black 


30 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEJJRASKA    AND   DAKOTA. 


w 


m 


"'I 


M 


Hills,  is  known  amon.i,'-  the  Indiuns  and  trad 


Kiinnin<,'  Koad 

Tlie  Jnyan  Kara  Peak  is  basalt  ..,  .. 
erful  s|).v-o|ass  of  tlio.sc  to  tlie  nortli,  I 


ers  as  the  Itace  Course  or 


ic,  and  the  appparane<'  t1iroii<>h  a  pow- 
^'  ,  known  as  the  '•  Dear's  Lodae"  and 


"  Littk'.  Missomi  Buttes,"  indicates  tiiat  th,^v  are  also  of  tUis  fonnation. 
More  recent  volcanic  action  is  visible  at  Bear's  Peak,  and  t«o  circular 
spaces  to  the  west  ot  this  peak,  now  ocenpicd  by  nnuldy  lakes,  indicate 
the  existence  here  informer  times  of  volcanic  forces 

The  highest  mountain  masses,  such  as  Uarnev's  Peak,  on  the  east 
mde,  are  all  granite,  the  rocks,  as  seen  at  a  distance,  appwiriug  in  the 
same  unmistakable  form  as  those  on  the  Itaw  Hide  and  Laramie  Peaks 
namely,  coarse  granite  or  gneiss,  standing  in  layers  and  slabs,  indi- 
cating a  vertical  stratirtcation.  A  full  description  of  these  mountains 
must  be  left  for  the  hnal  report.  They  derive  their  name  from  bein<' 
covered  with  pine,  xyhose  dark  green  gives  them  a  black  appearance.   " 

111  reference  to  the  Carboniferous   rocks   in   these   mountains,  Dr 
Hay  den  says:  ' 

"The  exact  iiositions  in  the  Carboniferous  system  to  which  the 
limestones  around  Fort  Laramie  and  in  the  Black  Hills  belong,  are 
not  sufhciently  clear  from  the  evidence  yet  obtained.  They  dJ  not 
seem  to  be  the  equivalents  of  the  beds  above  described  along  the 
Missouri,  though  they  may  be.  The  texture  of  the  rock  is  quite  ulilike 
.any  of  the  limestones  of  the  Coal-Measure  with  which  we  are  acquainted, 
and  there  seems  to  be  an  absence  of  the  fossils  characteristic  of  the  Coal- 
Measure  limest<)nes  on  the  Missouri,  and  in  Northeastern  Kansas.  The 
latest  opinion,  however,  of  my  associate,  Mr.  Meek,  is  that  they  belong 
to  the  true  Coal-Measures."  '^ 

In  these  mountain  formations,  which  border  the  great  plains  on  the 
west,  are  to  be  found  beautiful  flowing  streams,  and  small  rich  valleys 
covered  oyer  with  fine  grass  for  hay,  and  susceptible  of  cultivation  bv 
means  of  irrigation  Fine  timber  for  fuel  and  lumber,  limestone  and 
good  stone  lor  building  jmrposes  are  here  abundant.  Gold  has  been 
found  in  places  in  valuable  quantities,  and  without  doubt  the  more  com- 
mon and  useful  minerals  will  be  discovered  when  more  minute  examina- 
tions are  made. 

I  think  it  exceedingly  desirable  that  something  should  be  done  to 
encourage  settlements   in    the    neighborhood   of  Fort  Laramie.    The 
wealth  ot  that  country  is  not  properly  valued,  and  the  Indian  title  not 
being  extinguished  there  is  no  opportunity  to  settle  it.    Those  who 
ive  there  now  support  themselves  by  trade  with  the  Indians,  which 
being  already  overdone,  it  is  to  their  interest  to  keep  others  away. 
If  the  Indmn  title  were  extinguished,  and  the  protection  of  the  ter- 
ritorial government  extended  there,  so  as  to  be  effectual,  there  would 
soon  spring  up  a  settlement  that  would  rival  that  of  Great  Salt  Lake. 
Ihe  Laramie  Liver  is  a  beautiful  stream,  with  a  fine  fertile  valley,  and 
there  are  such  everywhere  along  the  base  of  the  mountains.    Pine 
timber  of  the  finest  quality,  in  abundance  grows  there,  easy  of  access, 
from  which  the^flnest  lumber  can  be  made;  building  stone  of  good  qual- 
ity abounds.    The  establishment  of  the  military  post,  and  the  constant 
passing  of  emigrants,  have  driven  away  the  game,  so  that  the  Indians 
uo  not  set  a  high  value  on  the  land,  and  it  could  easily  be  procured 
irom  tiiciii. 

The  people  now  on  the  extreme  frontiers  of  ]S"ebra8ka  are  near  the 
western  limit  ot  the  fertile  portions  of  the  prairie  lands,  and  a  desert 
space  separates  them  from  the  fertile  and  desirable  region  in  the  western 
mountains.    They  are,  as  it  were,  on  the  shore  of  a  sea,  up  to  which 


iiico  Course  or 

Iirou<>li  }i  i)o\v- 
's  L()(l;;e"  ami 
i*i8  toniiatioii. 
(1  t«o  circular 
lakes,  iiidicato 

k,  on  the  east 
•eariu",^  in  the 
araiuie  Peaks, 
III  slabs,  indi- 
ise  mountains 
e  from  bein«f 
-ppearance. 
ountains,  Dr. 

to  which  the 
8  belong-,  are 
They  do  not 
ed  along  the 
I  quite  unlike 
e  acquainted, 
ic  of  the  Coal- 
iansas.  The 
i  they  belong 

)lain8  on  the 
rich  valleys 
altivatiou  by 
mestone  and 
)\d  has  been 
lie  more  com- 
ute  examiua- 

be  done  to 
iramie.  The 
ian  title  not 

Those  who 
ilians,  which 
)thers  away, 
n  of  the  ter- 
there  would 
Lt  Salt  Lake. 
}  valley,  and 
tains.  Pine 
iy  of  access, 
if  good  qual- 
Lhe  constant 
the  Indians 
be  procured 

i^re  near  the 
md  a  desert 
the  M'estern 
up  to  which 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA.        31 

population  and  agriculture  may  advance,  and  no  further     But  thi^ 
gives  theni  much  of  the  value  of  places  along  the  At  i      ('frontier  in 
V  e»M)f  the  future  settlements  to  be  formed  in  the  niountains,  In   wk 
which  and  the  pi^sent  frontier  a  most  valuable  trade  would  "xistT^ 
western  frontier  has  always  been  looking  to  the  east  for  a  market   but 
assoonasthewan.  of  en.igration  has  passed  over  the  dese  4^^^^^^^^ 
of  the  plains,  to  which  the  .liscoveries  of  gold  have  Xafu   .  ive^^^ 
impetus  that  will  propel  it  to  the  fertile  vallevs  of  the  rS^Mo,  nt  it?s 
then  w,l     he  present  frontier  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  become 
njg  pomt  tor  all  the  products  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  wS  tJie  i>on 
Illation  ot  the  mounta  ns  will  require      Wo  iL  +hl  Jk'll      e  ■^-  ^   I 
benefits  which  the  western  fronS^of  Mis'soud  la's    Sved'fJom  tt 
bantaFe  trade,  and  still  more  i)lainlv  in  the  imnotn^  n-ivJ.  L  t 
worth   by  the  operations  of  the  armv  ot'  Utah  in  tl.f  In  L*^  ^^^^^ 
This  flow  of  products  has,  in  tl^^^Z^.^te^S^i^^':{-:S:^ 
but  when  those  mountains  become  settled,  as  they  eventuX  iS    ho  ,' 
there  wdl  be  a  rec.proc;il  trade  materially^oenefiial  to  both         '^'*^'"  " 
These  settlements  in  the  numntains  cannot  be  nmu.nU,ll^.l\\^  +i 

How  far  the  fine  timbers  in  the  interior  of  i^ebraska  can  b^  tpHa^i 

Z^iot'm,"i!S/?"'''"'"*^  ""  ^^^  ^*«^^«"^''  i«  -  Sion  upon  tvhfch  I 
aui  not  qualified  lo  give  a  very  positive  opinion. 

ihe  pine  extends  along  the  Niobrara  and  its  side  ravines  for  about  1 90 
mi  es,  and  there  is  nearly  an  equal  extent  of  it  on  wSte  Kivef  but  nn 
thf  Black"i?i/.V' "'  ^"fT^  quality  and  difficult  of  accSs     That' ^ 
irfnn  I        ^^'^\'^  °\"''''  ^*^"^^'  ti'»^er,  and'  covers  an  area  of  about 


CHAPTER  III. 

EEMARKS  ON  TUE   CLirvIATE-IvIETEOROLOaY 


32 


KXPLORATIOXS  IN  NEBKASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


,>'■•'! 


im 


il 


In  tho  yoar  18jo  wo  left  Fort  Lciivonwortli  on  tlio  lotl.  of  Jniio,  and 
miched  lort  Pierre  on  the  KHIi  of  July.  J)inni-  the  i.iis,sa{,'e  up  the 
river  we  had  V.i  days  of  nearly  ealiii  weather ;  10  days  of  south  or  south- 
east  wind,  sometimes  very  strong;  seven  thunder-storms,  some  of  tliem 
ot  great  violence,  with  much  rain,  the  amount  diminishing  as  wo  as- 
cended the  river,  (there  being  no  heavy  rain  after  the  liOth  of  June,  all 
ot  which  time  we  were  above  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara.)  The  highest 
temi)eraturo  observed  was  on  July  15,  at  2  p.  m.,  at  which  time  the  dry 
thermometer  gave  102°  in  the  shade,  and  the  wet-bulb  thermometer  «9o 
When  we  reached  Fort  Pierre  we  were  informed  that  there  had  been  no 
rain  or  snow  there  for  more  than  a  year.  The  ai)pearanco  of  the  vege- 
tatioii  confirmed  this  statement,  as  scarcely  a  green  spot  was  anywhere 
to  be  seen. 

Uourly  observations  on  the  wet  and  dry  bulb  thermometers  and  ba- 
rometers were  made  at  Fort  Pierre  from  July  17  to  25,  and  at  the  hours 
ot  t  a.  m.,  9,  and  2  p.  m.,  till  August  7.  The  mean  height  of  the  baro- 
inetric  column  at  this  place  is  (reduced  to  3iiO)  28.436:  the  altitude 
above  the  sea,  1,500  feet.  Tlie  highest  temperature  observed  during 
this  time  was,  at  3  p.  m.,  July  22,  dry  thermometer,  80°:  wet-bulb  ther- 
mometer, (UO;  the  barometer,  reduced  to  32°,  reading  2f.310.  On  the 
same  evening  we  had  a  heavy  tall  of  rain,  with  thunder  and  lightning, 
about  o  miles  south  of  the  fort;  this  was  the  first  rain  experienced  m 
the  neighborhood.  From  July  22  to  August  7  there  were  three  violent 
thunder-storms  from  the  west,  one  of  which  was  attended  with  a  heavy 
tali  ot  rain.  An  abundance  of  rain  continued  to  fall  here  duriuff  the 
summer.  * 

While  on  the  journey  from  Fort  Pierre  to  Fort  Kearny,  between 
August  7  and  August  22,  we  had  much  overcast  and  misty  weather 
nearly  all  the  time,  and  on  seven  of  the  days  rain  fell  in  small  quantities 

inom  August  2o  to  September  12  we  were  on  the  road  along  the 
Platte  Kiver  between  Fort  Kearny  and  Fort  Larairiie;  during  this 
time  we  had  two  heavy  thunder-storms,  attended  with  a  large  fall  of 
rain.  \\  hile  at  Fort  Laramie,  we  had  heavy  frost  about  the  25th  of 
feeptember.    Fort  Laramie  has  an  elevation  of  4,200  feet. 

From  September  29  to  Oi;tober  19  we  were  on  the  roatl  to  Fort  Pierre 
The  weather  at  times  was  very  cold,  and  snow  fell  to  the  depth  of  four 
inches  on  the  night  of  the  3(1  of  October ;  for  several  days  in  the  first 
part  of  this  month  the  thermometer  stood,  at  daybreak,  at  29°.  On  the 
20th  and  21st  of  October  we  had  a  violent  storm  of  rain,  sleet,  and  snow 
with  high  winds,  which  covered  everything  with  ice.  We  were  quite 
surprised,  on  reaching  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Pierre,  to  find  the  grass 
green  and  abundant,  for  it  was  such  a  contrast  to  its  appearance  in  Au- 
gust, when  everything  seemed  to  have  perished  for  want  of  rain.  Much 
snow  tell  here  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  there  were  heavv 
showers  of  rain,  so  that  a  more  beautiful  prairie  country  could  not  be 
found  than  this,  as  it  appeared  in  May  and  June,  1850.  At  the  same 
time  the  previous  year  the  grasses  scarce  gave  an  indication  of  life. 

VVe  left  Fort  Pierre  on  the  28th  of  June,  1856,  and  reached  Fort 
Union  on  the  10th  of  July;  on  the  passage  the  weather  was  compara- 
tively clear,  with  light  winds.  Up  to  this  time  no  rain  had  fallen  there, 
and  in  many  places  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  grass.  On  the  15th  a 
heavy  storm  of  ram  and  wind  commenced  at  9  p.  m.,  and  continued  till 
10  p.  m.  on  the  17th.  The  wind  for  several  days  previous  had  been 
light,  and  came  from  the  north.  On  the  15th,  at  2  p.  m.,  the  thermome- 
ter was  at  90°,  the  barometer  (reduced  to  32°)  reading  27.827.  At  9  a. 
m.,  on  the  16th,  the  barometer  read  27.735  j  thermometer  58°.    The 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


33 


wind  blew  with  great  violence  from  the  north  all  day  on  mo  i 
hat  .was  with  great  (l.(u;ulty  we  kei,t  our  tents  standi  ng;  ami 
tionot  the  inclo.snre  of  the  American  Fur  ( 


iiy  on  the  IGth,  so 
ii  per- 

aow.    This  stonn  was  .u;t^.u;:om,;;;n[ea  C;  lluSCaS^Z:^^'':^ 

r mom  ^.T''»  r(^"r''''^\^''"^  ''^"^  ^^-'^  themlSea^' 

While  at  Fort  Union  anil  iu  the  neiglihorhood  we  had  after  thi^ 
ab  ndance  ot  rain   so  that  the  whole  landscape  in  Angusr^  „  "  entem 
berworo  a  beantitul  green,  and  ffrass  was  plenty  i.f  I'la^csv^^^^^^^ 
July,  there  was  not  a  blade  of  it.    The  hi'WiPsr  t.Mn.Vor.  /..^  .  '  • 

encedher.w..ont1.e20thofJnly,ll.:tKm^^ 

'n^in^'o^Zil^J^'^r  "^"^'^'^  ^"  "^'-'^  "^^-'-^ »--  -«^"  thS 

fh^^nl^'If  n""?  .^^'"O'Ljj'e  l«t  of  September  and  reached  Fort  Pierre  o» 
the  oh  ot  October     We  were  again  struck  with  the  variable  iiatuie  o  f 

he  climate  on  hn<l.ng  that  but  little  rain  had  fallen  here    lu  our 

absence,  and  the  grass  had  all  dried  up,  though  -it  thiJ  ,  i ,,.«  ni*' 
period  of  the  previous  year  it  was  every^iiere  green         ' '"'"  ''^'  '"'"^ 
In  the  year  ot  mi,  we  started  from  Omalia    the  28th  of  Juno  in 

he  midst  ot    he  rainy  season,  and  reached  Fort  Laramie  Imn  st  '> 
l)nr,ng  tn.s  journey  .ve  had  fifteen  rainy  days,  or  a bou    one 7     four' 
and  on  many  other  oays  there  were  showers  wth  t  uu  dei    in     IM    ' 

Prior  to  our  arrival  at  Fort  Laramie  not  much  rain  Ind  fiiiAn  fi.n.« 

r«bered  to  have  ever  seen  ,o  ,„«eU  ru'in  fall  at  one  thue  at  S 

1  left  Fort  Laramie  on  the  4th  of  September  •  wp  Ivwi  nno  u^..^ 
on  the  10th  at  the  base  of  the  Black  lliYll'^Vh^LiturBhck'^HZ 
^^^J  had  a  stovm  that  lasted  from  0  a.  m.  on  the  lOtV   1    9  p.  m  oif  he 

stoi  r      -  ^i^^T  '''^'''"•"^'  ^^"^^  '^■'"''^''^  «"^"  altitude  du    no  this 
stoi-v  vh„e  It  was  coming  on,  the  indications  of  the  barometer  are 

^^.     .nt  £  l^^  S^^a  ^1^^ -;Mi 

andXs!"  '"  '''  ""^  ^'^^'  "'^'^  ^'^^"«-  '^'  «^^^-  oVthe  hi^hTak: 
.Im^Ih  *^'-^l^^^i^>«»(^ed  a  very  violent  storm,  of  about  twenty-four  hours' 
(I  nation   on  the  8th  of  October,  while  ou  White  Kiver,  ami  h  td  ^  f^U 
ot  about  SIX  inches  of  snow  on  the  ^'iobrara  on  the  iVh    .f  A  ^  i 
F^  the  18th  of  October  to  the  31st,  we  bad  Zu'sto'ms  ^f  r^iuISS 

^^1  have  not  attempted  here  to  give  the  direction  of  the  wind  'i-i"-- 
tue  period  as  it  couid  only  be  done  satistactorily  by  copvini  the  d«ilv 


34 


EXI'LOUATIONS    IN    NKHRASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


i 


m 


1,'  "! 


OctolxM-  IS  proiionilly  ii  vtM\v  windy  inontli.  In  isr»(!,  Hfteoii  diiyH  of  tliis 
niontli,  wiiilo  we  wer.'  tniv«'liii{.-  down  tlio  Missomi  in  a  Macliinac  boat, 
troui  I'ort  IMoiro  to  Sioux  City,  it  blow  ho  wo  coidd  not  pnx^oed.  The 
provaihnif  wind  at  tliis  time  was  IVoui  the  soutli,  and  wo  had  one  vio- 
lent rain-stonn  with  a  south  wind. 

A  true  indication  of  the  nature  of  the  eliiuate  of  Nebraska  is  to  bo 
lound  ill  the  eharaeter  of  the  phiiits  which  }>r()w  there.  Certain  kinds 
unable  to  live  throu^'h  the  lonjj  periods  of  drouj-ht  which  occur,  are 
rarely  to  be  seen,  and  those  which  tlourish  best  are  such  as  reciuire  but 
little  moisture,  or  whose  roots,  i)enetratin}4-  deep  into  the  soil,  enable 
them  to  draw  asuHiciency  of  moisture  from  below.  In  the  hi^'h  i)rairies 
where  there  is  a  good  soil,  we  find  the  bunch-«,nass  growing,'  la  tufts' 
but  in  many  pla<!es  inter8i)ersed  with  patches  of  ,  acti.  The  bottom 
lands  of  many  of  the  streams  support  no  trees  but  the  cottonwood  and 
willow,  and  some  of  them  produce  rank  growths  of  the  wild  sage. 

The  absence  of  trees  on  all  the  prairie  regions  is  another  evidence  of 
the  dryness  of  the  climate,  and  even  in  places  where  they  can  grow,  as 
in  the  ravines,  the  excessive  cold  of  the  winter  winds  prevents  them 
trom  reaching  their  full  development,  as  is  proved  by  the  dead  tops  of 
nearly  all  the  trees  which  extend  their  braiuihes  above  the  level  of  the 
prairie.  The  prairie  lires  have  done  much  toward  preventing  the  growth 
of  trees  in  places  adapted  to  them,  but  it  is  uot  a  sulUcieut  cause  to 
account  for  the  general  absence  of  forests. 

An  interesting  instance  of  the  effect  of  climate  on  the  growth  of  trees 
18  to  be  seen  in  the  cedar  as  you  asceud  the  Missouri.  At  the  first 
Cedar  Island,  in  latitude  4;J,  these  trees  grow  in  the  bottom  lands  of  the 
river,  and  are  large  and  straight,  those  growing  on  the  bluffs  being  of 
an  inferior  quality. 

The  cedars  diminish  as  you  ascend,  ami  the  last  of  these  in  any  num- 
ber together  are  to  be  seen  in  the  bluffs  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Little 
Shyenne,  in  about  latitude  45,  and  here  they  are  exceedingly  crookad 
and  twisted.  Along  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  in  the  Lignite  Ter- 
tiary formation,  we  And  the  cedar  unable  to  support  itself  above  the 
ground,  and,  spreading  itself  over  the  surface,  presents  the  appearance 
on  the  hill-sides  of  grass  or  moss. 

During  the  time  I  have  been  in  Nebraska  I  have  found  everywhere 
an  abundance  of  grass,  except  in  places  near  the  posts  and  others, 
where  it  had  been  eaten  oft"  by  the  buffalo. 

A  considerable  quantity  of  a  small  variety  of  corn  is  raised  by  the 
Mandans,  Rees,  and  Gros  Ventres,  near  the  47th  parallel,  on  the  Mis- 
soun,  and  it  is  probable  that  this  corn  can  be  raised  along  the  base  of 
mountains  as  tar  north  as  the  40th  parallel.  The  entire  mountain  sec- 
tion of  Nebraska  will  produce  good  wheat,  where  the  land  can  be  irri- 
gated, and  the  abundance  of  grass  for  pasturage  will  permit  of  the  rais- 
ing of  immense  herds  of  stock. 

This  western  portion  of  Nebraska  may,  therefore,  in  the  future  be 
valuable  tor  occupation  for  a  people  partly  engaged  in  agriculture,  but 
relying  mainly  upon  the  raising  of  stock. 

Many  valuable  inferences  in  regard  to  the  climate  may  be  drawn  from 
an  examination  of  the  catalogue  of  plants  growing  in  Nebraska,  pre- 
pared by  Dr.  Hayden,  and  appended  to  this  report. 

It  is  my  intention  to  ^ive  tables  of  the  meteorological  observations  iu 
a  subsequent  report.  These,  besides  the  indication  they  afford  of  the 
climate  of  Nebraska,  will  be  useful  in  aidiug  the  determinations  of  the 
progress  and  limits  of  storms  over  large  areas  incouuectiou  with  exteu- 


KXPL0UATI0N8    IN    NEMRASKA   AND    DAKOTA.  35 

Hive  invoHtiffationa  on  tliis  subject  r.mWd  ou  by  the  Hmitli.soniau  Iii8ti. 

Tho  tlMuulcT-storms,  so  far  as  we  have  ohW-rved  thiM.i    have  -i  Lneif 
nn.N.n.Ht.v      The  day  after  one  has  i.assed  ..ver  is  ge   11^0,1;     wi 
a  n«ht  north  w.nd  aM<l  hi^ri,  ,t.,te  of  the  ban.n.eter.     T  is  (^     d    i 
lasts  troM,  one  to  three  ihiys,  when  the  win<l  changes  to  t   e  so 
^aadnaly   ine.eases   .n  fon^e   durinj;  the  dav,  and  sonie    n.es  f  1     , 
alrnosttoaeahuat  ni^^ht.    The  barometer  litis  <iurmrth      i.n         d 

,.  i  n  -^  '  .,  "t'' .^^^'"*  ^""'^"^^  ^'■"'"  the^vest  t-enerallv  in  the 
ni«lit;  the  south  wind  often  blowing  a  hurricane  all  the  tine  he  storm 
IS  approaclnn-  from  the  west.  This  storm  is  a^ain  s  ccee  le  bv  <3 
woather  an«  a  luKh  state  of  the  baron.eter,  an(l  Yn  1.  m  end  we  n.nd  i 
sure  indication  of  the  approach  or  termina  ion  of  a  su  m  i  i  t  e  1^^^^^^^^^^ 
or  rising-  ot  the  barometric  column.  These  stonr \?;^  seen  on  the 
pia.ne  have  a  number  of  indei>endent  centers,  so  that  tL'v  ofttM  n  iss 
neross  the  landscai»8  to  the  north  and  south  without    our  4e  vinL'^^^^^ 

viot^^t';;;;^  :i^'^i.;r  ^^^''^^"'^  ^^^•^"•""'^"'-'  ^^^'^  f^^^a^^^ 


CHAPTER  IV. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  PRINCIPAL  RIVERS  AND  DISCUSSION  OF   THE    MERITS 

OF  DIFFERENT  ROUTES. 

In  pviuga  description  of  the  character  and  importance  of  the  rivers 

ioTof  VlteV'n'i  ih '"'^^'  '■''^''''  '?  ^'«^"'^«  ''  tui  s.!,^e  time'  he    ub 
^  mu    tTi-       '  ^^  ^^^y  ^^^  intimately  connected. 

hnfn  Missouri  tlierefore,  claims  our  first  attention,  and  thoncli  it  Las 
been  so  repeatedly  described  by  others,  a  few  of  its  LeuS  ffe.tnre^ 
may  be  enumerated  here.  A  detailed  account  of  the  vSs  points  we 
SrTM.''^?e^r'/''  military  posts  must  be  reservedlbiTe  final 
fn  Sn  3^H  .f  ^''^  n ''^^'°  ^^^  generally  a  uniform  width  from  the 
^nnni  i;^'^^**'^^^"'*^''*^«"«  ^^  '^^  mouth,  varviug  froui  oue  third  to 
fe  s 'md  drTb  JM-  ''"  ^"^^ ""''  ^""-    I"^  ^^^  ^^^te?the  widS  s  mucE 

iTte;  ii  ^^thdrnl^'f  ?r"P^  1^^'^'^"'^  «*■  ^^«  ^^^1'  from  which  the 
water  nas  withdrawn.    In  the  upper  part  of  the  river  where  the  trpe« 

do  not  destroy  the  force  of  the  wind,  the  sand  I^Lwu  about  in  the 

S'%Tdt.'nkTar[i  ^"?  ''''  1'^''  «V«-^  Lnbrse^ntr  "an; 
u  lies,    aana-banks  are  thus  formed,  genera  ly  at  the  edjres  of  the  trees 

i:^Z'!trS^:^S^^^^'  ^'^^^^  -^  «ften  manyTet^Vbtr^l 

consHnev!inf  •*'''''*''  T'"''^  '"'^y,  ^^  "^^^"'^'^  f'-O"!  this,  and  from  their 
S'  eHn^  of  t  !? 'f  ^'i  T^^^''  especially  in  October,  are  of  them 

ThP  .T.n2    ^^.^^'^^'^test  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of  the  river. 
ofThe  ^^HnV«  "'?  ^^'-^f  «and-bank8  exhibit  are  those  of  the  perimeters 

?hose  of  t1?«  V'r"^  P"*"'*'  ^.'^  ^"^"^^  ^^'"^y  ^ere  farmed,  and  not  unlike 
luoseot  the  Indian  mounds  in  the  Mississinn!  v^oii^v  .v'>'-"!>  U'"  n» 

^m^J^t^T  f  r^*  fortifications:  "TtsrbankTaSg 
■iwJ!;-  .^'  theretore,  been  considered  as  the  works  of  th$ 

aborigines,  such,  for  instance,  as  those  described  and  figm-edbv  Lewis 
•Clark  as  existing  at  Bon  Homme  Island.  I  have  conclusiv^  evf 
Uence,  from  personal  examination,  that  these  were  formed  by  ?!ie  wind 


36 


EXPLORATIONH    IN    XKHHASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


f'fll 


and  are  not  the  work  of  the  ancient  Tolteos,  as  .some  \uitei\s  have  sup- 

1)()S«'«1. 

The  river  has  jjrnerall.v,  in  the  same  stayvs  of  the  lh)0(lH,  about  as 
;>oo(!  navifjafion  on  aiicouiit  of  \\w.  (icpth  above  .lanies  Hiver  m  it  lias 
at  tliat  |)oint,  bnt  an  iniiirovcnicnt  takes  place  below  this  point,  in  the 
<lcpth  of  the  water  on  the  sand  bars  in  low  stayes,  as  you  descend  to  its 
month. 

Alon*;  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  the  bluf!'s  are  y'eiieraliv  clothed 
with  various  species  of  trees  as  far  up  as  tla^  month  of  the  IMatte; 
above  this  point  the  timber  is  jjenerally  coiitlned  to  the  ravines  and 
bottom  lands.  These  bottom  lands  attain  a  width  of  trouj  ten  to  tlfteen 
miles  after  wo  {»('t  aliove  CouikmI  Bliiirs,  which  is  almost  continuous  to 
the  mouth  of  .lanu's  Kiver.  Throujihout  this  section  the  ed^'es  of 
the  banks  are  lined  with  heavy  cotton  wood  ami  other  trees,  and  fuel 
for  8teand)oats  can  now  jjenerally  be  found  cut  up  and  prepared  for 
their  use. 

At  James  Tiiv<'r  the  bin. is  dose  in  so  that  the  oenoral  width  of  the 
space  between  is  only  from  one  to  two  miles  all  the  way  to  the  Upper 
lJi«'  IJend,  near  the  4.Sth  parallel.  Jlere  afjain  the  bottom  lands  betiome 
wider,  and  continue  at  a  width  of  from  three  to  six  miles  to  a  jmint 
about  filty  miles  above  the  Vcllowstoiu'.  In  this  last  section  there  is 
also  an  abundance  of  lar}>ecottonwood  timber,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
river  is  quite  similar  to  what  it  is  at  8ionx  City.  Alter  passing-  the 
Niobrara  the  steamboat's  crew  will  have  to  cut  the  wood  required  for 
gencratin<;-  steam,  and  the  only  scarcity  will  be  in  tinding  dead  trees 
at  null  points  as  the  boat  can  land  at.  Abundance  of  fuel  exists 
everywhere,  if  the  wood  was  cut  beforehand  and  hauled  to  suitable 
landings.  The  portion  of  the  river  most  deficient  in  wood  is  between 
the  mouth  of  the  Little  Shyenne  and  Cannon  Hall  rivers,  but  even 
here  there  is  an  abundancci  for  the  purposes  of  navigatiou  for  years  to 
come. 

One  of  the  greatest  obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  the  Missouri 
consists  in  the  great  number  of  snags  or  trees,  whose  roots,  embedded 
in  the  channel  by  the  caving  of  the  banks,  stand  at  various  inclinations 
pointing  down  the  stream.  These  obstructions  are,  comiiaratively,  quite 
rare  above  the  mouth  of  James  Kiver,  but  from  this  point  down  to  the 
JMississippi  it  is  a  wonder  often  how  a  steamboat  can  be  navigated  through 
them.  As  it  is  they  cause  the  boats  to  lie  by  during  the  night,  and 
thus  occasion  a  loss  of  nearly  half  of  their  running  time.  But  this  is 
not  the  only  delay,  for  often  on  account  of  the  wind  the  bends  tilled  with 
snags  cannot  be  passed,  and  the  vessel  is  frequently  detained  for  days 
on  this  account.  This  effect  of  the  wind  is  much  more  seriously  felt  as 
you  ascend  above  Council  Bluffs,  for  the  protection  allorded  by  the  trees 
on  the  banks  is  constantly  diminishing. 

Our  examinations  extended  but  sixty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone,  but  the  portion  between  this  and  Fort  Benton  was  exam- 
ined carefully  by  the  parties  under  Governor  Stevens  in  1853,  and  the 
results  are  given  in  his  report  on  the  Tacitic  Bailroad  explorations.  It 
is  the  almost  universal  opiuion  of  those  who  have  examined  this  portion 
of  the  river  that  it  would  be  navigable  in  its  best  stages  for  light-draught 
boats.  From  our  reconnaissance  in  185G,  I  feel  convinced  that,  notwith- 
standing the  diflicnlties  to  navigation  which  exist,  the  Minsouri  igi  a  supe- 
rior river  to  any  in  this  country,  except  that  portion  of  the  Mississippi 
which  is  below  their  junction.  The  navigation  is  generally  closed  by 
ice  at  Hioux  City  by  the  ](»th  of  November,  and  at  Fort  Leavenwort'h 
by  the  1st  of  December.    The  rainy  season  of  the  spring  and  summer 


I'A. 

iters  have  sup- 

l«)0(l.s,  about  as 
:<iver  as  it  lias 
lis  point,  in  the 
I  «Iosci'ikI  to  its 

ticraliy  (rlotliotl 
of  tlio  IMatto; 
lie  raviiu's  ami 
rn  t«Mi  to  lit'teeii 
t  continuons  to 
I  the  ed^es  of 
trees,  and  fuel 
il  iirepared  for 

111  width  of  the 
V  to  Whs  lJ[>per 
n  lamls  become 
iles  to  a  point 
section  there  is 
pearanceof  the 
;er  passing;-  the 
)d  re(piire(l  for 
ling  dead  trees 
of  fuel  exists 
led  to  suitable 
jod  is  between 
k'ers,  but  even 
uii  for  years  lo 

)f  the  Missouri 
ots,  embedded 
us  inclinations 
iratively,  quite 
nt  down  to  the 
i gated  through 
the  night,  and 
e.  But  this  is 
mds  tilled  with 
;ained  for  days 
Briously  felt  as 
ed  by  the  trees 

e  mouth  of  the 
ton  was  exara- 
I  1853,  and  the 
plorations.  It 
ed  this  portion 
•  light-draught 
.  that,notwith- 
souri  isi  a  supc- 
;he  Mississippi  ^ 
rally  closed  by 
Leavenworth 
i'  and  summer 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA.        87 

commcncas  in  different  years  between  the  15th  of  May  and  the  .'{()th  of 
.  une  (Ml  the  lat,itude  of  Kansas,  Missouri,  Iowa,  and  Sou        n  Nel  r  si 
a  Id  lasts  about  two  months.     Daring  this  period  tiie  trib.t/uls  ,f  tl  m 
Mis.s.mn  in  these  latitudes  maintain  this  river  in  good  bo      ,r«  .,! ' 

V  1    '  V"'  ^^'^  SI'.venne,  the   Yellowstone,  and  the  Missciur  above 
the  Yellowstone,  and  reach  the  lower  river  about  the  first   Xt  of     ulv 
and  It  IS  niainly  on  these  that  the  navigator  of  the  M  ss m  r   abov      Im 
Niobrara  depemls.     The  length  of  timeNlie  llo,.  Masts  ^,,000^^ 
t(  the  quail  ity  01  snow  in  the  mountains,  which  varies  gm  til  iil^i 
e  It  years     ( ),,  the  average  it  may  be  said  to  last  a  inontlU  it  a  st  '    ler 
starting  Imm  Saint  Louis  on  the  tirst  indication  there  osurLfw     Id 
.0   genen.Ily  reach  the  Yellowstone  before  it  was  neaHy    ast   ii  s  at  er 
oint.    K.vers  like  this,  whose  mu'igation  depends  upon    I  e  te  m.orarv 

i  e  a;  fZ^'f^  l"^"'"'"'"  *r,  r«"'li"K  tHa,.  .les<,ei.d!ng  boa         Tie 
use  at  t  e  ^  ellowstone  would  be  about  ten  days  reachin-  Saint  Lou  s 
niHl  any  good  system  of  telegraphing  along  the  streaii  fwl  ieh  wou  d 
apprise  those  below,  would  more  than  double  the  advS^^^ 
ward  navigation.    If  a  miscalculation  is  made  by  tal  luffte  nX^^^^^^ 

till  the  mam  rise  comes.    From  this  cause,  I,  starting  on  the  1  tl    of 

.^  i'.'  'Sf '7'-'''"/^^V"  «'^"'"«  '«  ^^'^  l^ierr^^l^io  mile    from 
Saint  Louis.    Again   if  the  boat  starts  too  late,  the  main  rise  mav  a 
pass  the  upper  river  before  she  reaches  it,  and  he.v  prog  "ss  will  hen  be 
slow  and  tedious     By  starting  June  «,  1855,  (which  wSo  1  te  it  bein.^ 
an  early  season,)  we  were  forty-one  days  gJing  to  Fo;t  P  eixe  '  ^ 

lie  American  Fur  Company's  boats  are  of  the  largest  class  of  frei^rht 
boats  now  navigating  the  Missouri.  They  are  ably  luana'tnl  '  ml  t^ 
company  possesses  information  by  expresses  sent  im.  s  tmli.^^^"^ 
uear  the  mountains,  as  to  the  amount  of  snow  that  has^lle  md  tl  e 
probable  extent  and  time  of  the  rise  produced  by  itlnelLg  The  boats 
reloaded  and  time  of  starting  tixid  accordingly.  S  ^bmUs  ca?rv 
isance^M";HM.:?r'  fifty  to  two  hundred  toiiVlo  tit!  i^Ho  S^^^^^^^ 
uistance  ot  1,900  miles,  drawing  from  3  to  3A  feet  of  water  and  ma  -a 
the  passage  up  in  from  twenty-two  to  thirty.fn4  d  y^    CoSeribln 

hundl^d  nlESlj:^"'  '^"^'  ^"  ^"^  ---"/^one  to  Mil^  "i^^^^X 

]oSor'nnd%if«7''^'''  r^T-  ^'•''^  ayerage,  about  equal  from  the  Yel- 
n,?™f  ^^;fO"ii  «it  their  junction,  and  above  this  point  steaii - 
S;  n  Jt  iT  V^^  ''}"*'^"-  ^^'«  ^'^^^  risk,  in  proceeding  farther  of 
ha  11  g  the  boat  caught  in  the  upper  river  during  the  winter  mireTh'iii 
.:ouii  erbalances  the  prospective  gain.     The  Ireioht  is  tliei'i  t .  e,    on 


38 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEBRASKA   AND   DAKOTA. 


ii'':'l 


m-r 


I 


miles  are  from  four  to  five  miles  broad,  with  boautifnl,  soft,  rouiuled 
bluffs  to  tlic  west;  the  banks  of  the  river  are  clothed  with  large  cotton- 
wood  trees,  and  the  country  presents  one  of  the  finest  locations  for  a 
military  jwst  and  Indian  reservation  anywhere  to  be  found.  After  you 
advance  about  forty  miles  up  the  left  bank,  the  bluffs  begin  to  come  on 
this  side  almost  to  the  river,  and  the  bottom  lauds  narrow  and  the  tim- 
ber diminishes.  A  good  route  for  wagons,  ho\\ever,  exists  on  this  side 
for  one  hundred  miles  above  the  mouth.  Having  gone  thus  far  you 
meet  with  very  impracticable  bluff's,  barely  permitting  of  the  passage 
of  pack  mules,  to  get  around  which  with  wagons,  without  crossing  the 
Yellowstone,  you  must  travel  out  into  the  prairie  one  or  two  days'  jour- 
ney, so  as  to  head  the  difticult  ravines.  Bluff's  similar  to  these  exist  on 
the  right  bank  all  the  way  from  the  mouth  to  this  place,  but  here  the 
river  suddenly  changes  its  position  in  the  valley,  so  as  to  leave  the  open 
valley  on  the  right  bank,  and  causes  the  difficulty  which  exists  on  the 
other. 

This  point  is  also  the  highest  point  navigable  for  steamboats,  and 
those  even  of  very  light  draught  cannot,  except  at  high  water,  go  further 
than  about  fifty  miles  from  the  mouth,  as,  in  the  next  space  of  fifty 
miles,  the  channel  is  so  very  much  divided  up  by  wooded  islands  anil 
obstructed  by  gravel-bars.  But  at  the  point  before  nutiti  ned  as  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation,  ledges  of  rock  begin  iu  the  hed  of  the 
stream,  and  about  one-half  mile  below  Powder  Eiver  we  encounter  a 
dangerous  rapid,  called  by  Captain  Clark  "Wolf  Bapid."  Two  miles 
above  Powder  Biver,  Captain  Clark  describes  another  serious  rapid, 
which  he  calls  "Bear  Bapid;"  and  twenty  miles  above  this  another, 
which  he  calls  "Buffalo  Shoal,"  and  which  he  speaks  of  as  being  "the 
most  difficult  part  of  the  Yellowstone  Biver."  All  these  rapids  are 
passed  every  year  by  the  Mackinac  boats  of  the  American  Fur  Company 
on  their  way  to  Fort  Alexander  Sarpie,  and  there  are  probably  no 
obstacles  sufficient  to  prevent  them  from  reaching  the  point  where  this 
river  debouches  from  the  mountains. 

The  valley,  all  the  way  to  the  mountains,  is  said  to  be  practicable  for 
wagons.  Above  this  point  the  river  is  said  to  be  much  inclosed  by  the 
mountains,  which  are  rugged  and  difficult,  and  covered  with  pine  forests. 

From  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Alexander  Sarpie,  on  the  Yellowstone,  the 
Mackinac  boats  are  from  50  to  60  feet  long,  drawing  from  15  to  20  inches 
water,  and  make  the  distance,  225  miles,  in  from  fifteen  to  thirty  days. 

None  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Yellowstone,  (Clark's  Fork,  Big^  Horn, 
Tongue,  and  Powder  rivers,)  above  their  mouths,  have  ever  been  visited 
by  any  exploring  expedition,  except  those  of  trappers  and  hunters. 

The  Big  Horn  l?iver  is  by  far  the  most  important  of  thovse  streams, 
and  has  been  navigated  by  the  traders  iu  skin  boats,  carrying  their  pel- 
tries, from  the  point  where  it  debouches  from  the  Big  Horn  Mountains 
to  the  Yellowstone,  a  distance  of  perhaps  150  miles.  Above  where  the 
stream  escapes  the  mountains,  it  is  not  navigable  for  anything  but  the 
smallest  boats,  and  the  gorges  by  which  the  stream  passes  the  mount- 
ain range  is  impracticable  for  any  kind  of  land  transportation  ;  a  con- 
siderable detour  being  required  even  for  pack  animals.  The  portion 
navigable  will,  ]>erhaps,  according  to  the  opinion  of  Colonel  Eobert 
Campbell,  of  Saint  Louis,  furnish  a  depth  of  Vi-ater  for  ^Mackinac  boats, 
in  high  stages,  of  about  18  inches,  but  he  thinks  the  navigation  of  this 
stream  for  ascending  boats  could  not  be  used  to  any  advantage.  An 
undue  importance  has  been  given  to  the  navigability  of  this  stream  from 
the  erroneous  position  of  the  Yellowstone,  as  laid"  down  on  nearly  all 
recent  maps,  except  those  from  this  office,  as  they  make  its  }>os{tion 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


39 


,  soft,  rounded 
h  large  cofctoii- 
locatioiis  for  a 
id.  After  you 
gin  to  come  ou 
\v  and  the  tim- 
)ts  on  this  side 
J  thus  far  you 
>f  the  passage 
it  crossing  the 
Dwo  days'  jour- 
these  exist  on 
,  but  here  the 
leave  the  open 
I  exists  on  the 

eaniboats,  and 
iter,  go  further 

space  of  fifty 
id  islands  and 
iti  ned  as  the 
the  hed  of  the 
re  encounter  a 
\"    Two  miles 

serious  rapid, 
!  this  another, 

as  being  "the 
ese  rapids  are 

Fur  Company 
B  probably  no 
)int  where  this 

practicable  for 
uclosed  by  the 
th  pine  forests, 
sllowstone,  the 
L5  to  20  inches 
to  thirty  days, 
•rk.  Big  Horn, 
er  been  visited 
I  hunters, 
those  streams, 
ying  their  pel- 
3rn  Mountains 
ove  where  the 
thing  but  the 
es  the  niouut- 
tation ;  a  con- 
The  portion 
lolonel  Eobert 
ickiuae  boats, 
igation  of  this 
Ivantage.  An 
is  stream  from 
on  nearly  all 
:e  its  ]>osition 


nearly  J  00  miles  too  far  south.  The  manner  in  which  T  have  been  able 
to  correct  this  is  given  in  my  report  on  the  compilation  of  the  General 
Pacihc  Eailroad  Map.  ^Jcul.i.n 

Poialer  A'im-.-This  stream  rises  near  the  southern  point  of  the  Big 

M^'tf/y^H"^ Tn'  ''"'1  ^^^\'  •'  ^'^?^  ^""^^  »^"  "«^'<^1^-     The  route  from  thi 

latte  to  the  Yelowstone  along  the  stream  is  practicable,  but  as  a  route 

tor  wagons  it  is  difficult,  requiring  the  stream  to  be  frequently  crossed! 

fuicks^nid''  '^'^  ''^"^^^  "'"'^'^•^''  "°*^  ^^"^^^'^  '^  occupied  in  places  by 
The  Little  Missouri  Elver  rises  near  the  North  Fork  of  the  Shyenne 
in  longitude  lOoo.  I  bave  seen  the  country  near  its  source,  where  it 
orms  the  northern  part  of  the  upheaved  stratified  rocks  of  the  Black 
llills  and  at  the  mouth  where  the  Lignite  Tertiary  exists.  Its  general 
direction  is  noitheast,  and  its  course  through  the  main  portion  must  be 
m  this  Lignite  Tertiary  formation.  From  the  statements  of  members  of 
bir  George  Gore's  party,  which  traveled  up  the  stream  in  1856,  I  infer 
tlijit  the  route  along  or  near  its  valley  is  practicable  for  wagons,  though 
'^'^}},7^\:  .^^^  ^^^"e.V  IS  one  of  the  great  buffalo  regions.  '       ^ 

JJrt^u{fJ-'Z'  ^'''KK^i^y^^  C'^'^non  Ball  Eiver,  Grand  and  Moreau 
men,  al  use  in  the  prairie  ridge  east  of  the  Little  Missouri,  and  thev 
contain  but  little  water  in  the  winter  and  latter  part  of  summer  I 
have  never  seen  any  of  thein,  except  at  their  mouths,  and  their  lengths 
on  my  map  indicate  their  comparative  size.         '  ieut,tu8 

^v^i't'J-lftT'''^  is  a  most  important  river,  and  has  its  extreme  sources 
west  ot  the  Black  Hills,  which  its  two  main  branches  inclose.  These 
torks  are  supplied  by  numerous  streams  from  the  mountains,  and  thev 

UHtlZ  !i?'lV*"^f  ^".^V^^^  '^''  ^^"  '''^''  fl°^'"^  i'^t^  t^«  Missouri  m 
Mitude  4io  48'.    In  its  lower  course  I  am  informed  there  is  fertile  land 

on  ts  banks,  and  there  are  considerable  areas  in  and  around  the  Black 
Mills  Ihe  hhyenne  Kivercan  probably  be  rafted,  and  the  streams  that 
come  from  the  hills  could  be  used  to  drive  the  logs  down  to  the  rive^ 
.um^'u  /  ""''"^  "'  ^'J'*^  ^^'^^  ^^'^  1""6  growing  on  the  Black  Hills  is 
.nnnillf  .^T"*^'  """'^  *  {c  expeuso  of  getting  it  out  may  render  this  fine 
f\£ti  %\  T^f ''  miavailab le  to  the  Lower  Missouri.  The  Missouri  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Shyenne  is  in  the  center  of  the  Dakota  country,  and 

fet^ongEls"!"  '"  '"  '^''^''^  '^"'^  ^"'^  '^"^"  ^^'  ^^^'^^  ^«  ^^^^^ 
Bad  Eiver,  Wakpa  Spichu,  (sometimes  called  Teton  Kiver,)  receives  its 
'onll^llT  "»<5 .""l^aj'-^table  state  of  its  water  in  low  stages,  and  the  diffi- 
Si  ^^^7^?^t^''!\  '^  ^"  ^^^  y^eathev.  It  lies  throughout  in  the 
bUxck-shale  bed  of  the  Cretaceous  formation.    It  is  along  the  sources  of 

is  located"''      ''"'""  ^  ^*  *''^  '""'^'^  ^'^'"^  ^^'^  ^^""'^  "^  ^""'^  ^•^''^'^^^ 

E^h'^ifi!' r. ""'  ^^^^it^f^^^-th  River,  (Mankisita  Wakpa,  or  Smoking- 
Larth  River,)  has  generally  an  open,  well-wooded  vallev,  with  a  flue  soil 
Inilf ""  i!'*^  ^J^'^':  ^^^  ''*^''^^^  ^«^^^^e»  ^o^-ts  Laramie  and  Pierre  fol- 
'M  iffi^;fi7l  f-  '*"?  '^'  f  V'^^-  \^  ^^^  ^^''^^^  ^'""'''^^^  ^^'*'ere  the  river  enters 
Tl  P  T^  wi  T  i"""  bounded  with  precipices  like  tnoso  on  the  Niobrara. 
Fnri  iT^""^  ®?^"^^  continuously  down  the  stream  to  the  South 
1  ork,  a  distance  of  about  seventy  miles.  Below  this,  the  river  winds 
.rough  a  handsome,  weil-wooded  valley  of  the  Missoud.    Any  «ne  who 

of  Im,  I'^i^.f -^"f  f  '*''"  ^^r7^'^  feel  rejoiced  when  he  reaches  the  banks 
o    t'Ms  beautiful  stream.    It  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  Brules.    It  has 
nerous  omnches,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  the  South  Fork.    The 
o     he  xlbrfrn   T^  tributaries  is  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  that 

on  the  Niobrara.     Ihis  stream  has  been  used  by  the  traders  to  float 


40 


EXPLORATIONS    IN    NEIUIASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


down  tlirir  i)olfiioH  by  means  of  skin  boats  from  tlioir  former  tradiriff- 
lionse  near  r.utfe  C^aehe.  1  believe  it  can  also  be  used  to  raft  down  the 
l»ine  timber  on  tlie  South  Fork. 

TlivMohrm-a  beiuff  a  stream  heretofore  unknown,  and  one  in  whieh 
the  peojde  of  Nebraska,  feel  mueli  interest,  I  shall  describe  it  in  detail. 
This  river  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  lonj;-.     ]''rom  its  source 
to  longitude  KKP  15'  it  is  a  beautiful  little'stream  of  eh'ar  runninjf  water, 
of  a  width  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  {j^radnally  wideninj^  as  it  descends. 
Its  valley  furnishes  here  very  good  };rass,  aboiiiuliu};  in  lushes  or  prele, 
but  is  for  the  nu)st  part  destitute  of  wood  even  for  cooking.    After  tlow- 
i»ig  thus  far  it  rapidly  widens,  till  in  longitu«le  1013o  30'  it  attains  a  width 
of  fsixty  to  eipiity  yards;  it>«  valley  is  still  quite  open  and  easy  to  travel 
along,  but  destitute  of  wood,  excei)t  occasional  ])im's  on  the  distant  hills 
to  the  north.    In  longitude  l()2o  .'{()'  it  enters  between  high,  steep  banks, 
which  closely  eonfliK^  it,  and  for  a  long  way  it  is  a  comi)lete  cafion  ;  here, 
lK)wever,  wood  beccmu's  more  abundant  and  pine  is  occasionally  seen  on 
the  blnfls,  while  small  clusters  of  cottonwood,  elm,  and  ash  oc(Mipy  the 
luuTow  points  left  by  its  windings.    In  longitude  lOlo  45'  the  sand'hills 
cojue,  on  the  north  side,  close  to  the  river,  while  on  the  south  side  they 
are  at  the  distaiu-e  of  from  one  to  tw»)  miles  off,  leaving  a  snumth  road 
to  travel  on  along  the  bluffs.    The  bluffs  gradually  ai>pear  higher  aud 
higher  above  the  stream  as  it  descends  until  they  reacdi  the  height  of 
three  hundred  feet.    The  sand  mostly  ceases,  on  the  north  ?,!  !e,  in  longi- 
tiule  ]()()o  L>;i' ;  but  it  lies  close  to  the  stream,  on  the  south  side,  nearly  all 
the  way  to  the  Wa/i-honska.    Throughout  this  section,  Iving  between 
longitude  lOl'o  00'  and  longitude  lM»o  L»0',  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles,  the  Niobrara  is  in  every  resjx'ct  a  i)eculiar  stream,  and 
there  is  none  that  1  know  of  that  it  can  be  compared  with.     It  flows 
here  between  high,  rocky  banks  of  soft  white  and  yellowish  calcareous 
and  siliceous  sandstone,  standing  often  in  i)recipices  at  the  water's  edge, 
its  verticality  being  preserved  by  a  capping  (►f  hard  grit.     It  is  here 
iujiHissible  to  travel  any  considerable  distance  along  its  immediate  banks 
without  having  frequently  to  climb  the  ridges  which  rise  sometimes  per- 
pendicularly from  the  stream.    As  you  approach  from  the  north  or  south 
there  are  no  indications  of  a  river  till  you  corue  within  two  or  three 
miles  of  the  banks,  and  then  only  by  the  trees  whose  tops  occasiomdly 
rise  above  the  ra\  ines  in  which  they  grow,  so  completelv  is  it  walled  iii 
by  the  high  bluffs  which  inclose  its  narrow  valley.    It  stu'ms  as  if  it  had 
resulted  from  a  fissure  in  the  earth's  crust,  amrnow  flows  at  a  depth  of 
about  three  hundred  feet  below  the  general  level  of  the  i)rairie.    The 
soft  rock  which  forms  the  bluffs  is  w<un  into  the  most  intricate  labyrinths 
by  tlie  little  streams,  all  of  which  have  their  sources  in  beautiful  gush- 
ing springs  of  clear  cold  water.     Jn  these  snuill,  deep  valleys  the  grass 
is  luxuriant ;  i)ine,  ash,  and  oak  are  abundant.    To  the  agriculturist  this 
section  has,  however,  comparatively  little  attraction,  and  that  between 
longitude  StOo  20'  ami  the  mouth,  an  extent  of  about  niiu'tv  miles,  is  per- 
hai)S  far  more  valuable.    Here  the  bottoms  will  probably  average  a  width 
of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  are  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and  cottonwood, 
oak,  walnut,  and  ash  will  furnish  settlements  with  all  the  timber  and 
fuel  they  will  need.     The  river  banks  seem  to  present  no  good   building 
stone,  nor  did  we,  though  searching  diligently,  discover  anv  siuiis  of 
coal  or  other  valuable  minerals.  '      . 

In  describing  the  tributaries  lo  the  Niobrara,  I  shall  begin  at  the 
mouth  and  take  the  north  side  flrst.  The  Poidia  LMver,  which  has  a 
very  flue,  well-wooded,  and  fertile  valley,  runs  into  the  ^Missouri  about 
live  miles  north  of  the  Niobrara,  in  latitude  4'J"'  4S'  north.     Its  course 


iiiii 


oriiicr  tiading- 
}  rnt't  down  the 


I  i)rairie.    The 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASK   AND  DAKOTA. 


41 


7'/////c  7////  fairer  (Ke.va  Paha  Wakj.a)  is  the  main  branch  of  the 
Niobrara,  and  Ksabont  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  lonff.     l»Hor  to 
the  i)nbhcation  ot  my  report  ami  map  of  re(..nnais8ances  in  1855,  Jh is 
branch  was  represented  erroneously  as  being-  equal  to  the  main  I'iver 
jn  81/e,  above  their  junction.  ' 

1  crossed  it  in  1855,  sixty  miles  below  its  mouth,  and  it  has  a  verv 
i.ne  valley,  one-ha  to  three-,,uarters  of  a  mile  wide,  with  good  soil 
;.nd  a   imited  quantity  of  cottonwood  timber.     The  bed  of  the  stream 

vud^'Vhe  first  two??  ^^V'"V;r''^  '^^^^^^'  "''^^'^  ^'^^^  mttfX 

^;a;^rivi;'^:L!;:i:;r{i;'t^hnl" '''"''  '^^"^^"  ^^'^  ^^^-^^  -^^^  «- 

lOOo^'o.r^.*,  '!;"n'''T'\r''"'\^''  Y'""^'l  -i^'"'"  t^'«  Niobrara,  in  longitude 
lOOo  .3  s  named  i\lini-cha-duza-Waki)a,  or  ]{apid  Creek  At  its 
mouth  It  ,s  about  eight  yards  wide,  with  a  valley  about  a  quarter  to 
vi  ;'s?n'  IVV;  ''  ''''Vr^  ^'"f*^  ^■^••^''^-  ^^«  ^^^^^^^^^^  scantiirfi  nged 
.     .e  no    h      I'^-nf-  n  *%'"1  "^^"^  *'■"  "'^'^^^'"'  ^^''^'''  of  the  sand-hills 

There  are  nunierous  ravines  with   steep  rocky  banks,  containinsr 
.spnngs  andrunuH.g  streams,  extending  out  fron/five  to  seven ^^^^^^^^^^ 
between  this  branch  and  the  Keya  Paha,  at  the  heals  of  which  occa 
sionally  good  camping-places  may  be  found. 

Ihe  mouth  of  the  next  stream  is  in  longitude  lOlo  18';  it  has  scareelv 

asttiui  and  descend  ;  it  is  about  live  yards  wide,  with  clear  deen  swiff 
lunning  wa  er,  and  is  probably  about  35  miles  long  '        ^ '        "" 

Ihe  mouth  of  the  next  northern  tributary  is  in  longitude  lOlo  SO' 
"i^uM^^  w  hichir'"  "^'T?''  '^  '^  about  three-t^Suie'L/of 
miles  oniTTn-uv^^^-T  »'  ^''^''^' 1^'''^^'«"'«»'' «»<l  ^^  ^^o^t  25 

"    .nil  J  f*  *-^^'  "'  '/^"S'tiHle  10i»o,  is  a  small  spring  rivulet  about 

?  o       he  bl  S'^'""^  ^'^'^IT  ^  "'  ^^'"^  ^""'^"^''^^  '-^^^  ^^^  «'"a'l  runs  con  hg 

Km  "to  sp^^lktV.^  "''""''  '^'^'  '-^""P'  ''^''^'  ^'^"»«'  ''^'^'  ««'^^-«e'y  any  vab 

On  the  south  side  of  the  Xiobrara  tliere  are  numerous  small  branches 

owning  in  between  its  junction  with  the  Missouri  an    th    point  where 

It  receives  the  waters  of  the  Turtle  Hill  Kiver.    Three  of  these     re  of 

consulerable  size,  probably  35  miles  long,  the  bluffs  Soi^s  i  eirlv    H  of 

hem  being  more  or  less  covered  with^scatter*^^"  pi,  e,!^ their  vnl 

i?;VT;P'n^  "'t  '.  t'la>»Ps  of  cottonwood,  oak,  ash  &,     The  no  ition 

o    the  Llk  Horn  River,  about  30  miles  south  of' the  xVjbnara  p^re'4nts 

any  o    these  southern   branches  having  a  length  oreater  th'in  1   hnvp 

i^s^:^u^l^yj'^ZT']^''''-  '"'^'"^  '""""^'■»  b'anches,  all  contain- 
N\  .7    mn.i  .,  '     ^  abounding  u,  pine  and  beautiful  oak  groves. 

mo    sir    rni    To    'ii  '"'!^  ^'"•'  '1'"'),'"'  '^'^'^'^^^  '"^^"th  is  in  longitude 

ffeei\  wiM     i,^^^         "/''n   '^'If ''"l^  "''  ^^'  ^'>"^*"«  and  side  ravines  are 
gicni  ^^nh  pme.     Its  valley,  though  not  so  wide,  is  very  similar  to  that 


Snake  Kiver,  wh 


m  lius  i)art,  which  has  been  dcMcrlbed. 


stn 

low  valley  like  the  Wazihoiisl 


ose  mouth  is  in  longitude  KKP  45 


»m   some  thirty  yards  wide,  its  blutls  covered  with 


y,  IS  (piite  a  large 


i\ 


Al 


Ka. 


pine,  with  a  nar 


><)ve  this  there  is  scarcely  any  branch  coming  in  fr 


eserviiig  mention 


0111  the  south 


42 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


ii:-.;! 


1 1-"  I-"'  ■ 


:N^iobrjira  is  a  very  shallow  and  "  swift-flowing  stream,"  as  the  Cana- 
dians say  "TEau  qui  Court,"  aboundinf?  in  rapids  in  VAvo-thirds  of  its 
upper  course,  and  in  its  middle  portion  tilled  with  small  islands.  In  the 
lower  portion  its  width  exceeds  that  of  the  Missouri  Kiver,  and  is  spread 
out  over  sand-bars.  The  bed  in  the  broad  portions  is  quicksand  and 
difficnit  to  fortl.  Its  waters  rapidly  increase  in  volume  through  its  mid- 
dle portion,  from  the  multitude  of  springs  and  streamlets  that  constantly 
flow  into  it  from  the  foot  of  the  bluffs  and  out  of  the  ravines. 

The  traders  of  the  American  Fur  Company  have  naviiiatGu  it  with 
skin  boats,  carrying  peltries  from  their  former  trading-house  near 
Snake  liiver,  and  the  stream  might  permit  of  rafting  if  the  timber 
should  be  found  of  quality,  and  quantity,  and  accessibility  to  defray 
the  expenses.  I  cannot,  however,  look  upon  it  as  capable  of  furnish- 
ing timber  for  the  country  on  the  Missouri,  for  the  reason  that  much  of 
the  pine  is  too  small,  crooked,  and  knotty,  and  grows  in  jdaces  diflicnlt 
to  transport  it  from.  The  species  is  what  is  called  the  Itocky  Mountain 
pine,  has  a  yellowish-white  appearance,  and  abounds  in  resin.  The  dis- 
tance on  the  Niobrara  over  which  these  pine  ravines  extend  is  about 
120  miles. 

A  road  could  not  be  made  on  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Niobrara ;  it 
must  keep  out  on  the  high  prairie  so  as  to  head  the  ravines.  From  the 
mouth  to  Turtle  Hill  liiver  it  would  take  the  narrow  divide  between  the 
Niobrara  and  Ponka  liivers.  It  should  remain  on  the  north  side  of 
Turtle  Hill  liiver  from  20  to  30  miles  farther,  and  then  cross  that 
stream,  as  it  would  thus  avoid  the  san^  at  the  junction  of  the  Niobrara 
and  Turtle-Hill  rivers,  and  cross  the  latter  where  there  is  a  better  ford 
or  narrower  stream  to  bridge.  Turning  then  toward  the  Niobrara,  this 
river  must  be  crossed  in  longitude  101°  20'  to  avoid  the  sand-hills,  and 
the  route  must  continue  on  the  south  side  to  about  longitude  102°,  when 
it  should  again  cross  to  the  north  side.  These  crossings  for  a  w  igon-road 
could  easily  be  made  at  a  ford  or  by  bridging,  but  a  proper  badge  for  a 
railroad-crossing  at  these  places  would  be  a  stupendous  undertaking ; 
for,  on  account  of  the  nature  of  the  banks  and  ravines,  good  approaches 
could  not  be  found  so  as  to  descend  to  the  level  of  the  stream,  and  the 
bridge  would  have  to  be  built  very  high.  From  longitude  102°  west 
there  are  no  difficulties,  beyond  a  scarcity  of  wood,  in  reaching  Fort 
Laramie,  or  continuing  direct  to  the  South  Pass,  and  in  this  course 
abundance  of  excellent  pine  would  be  found  near  Raw  Hide  Peak. 

A  preferable  road  might  be  found  by  continuing  up  Turtle  Hill  River 
to  its  source,  and  then  along  the  divide  between  Niobrara  and  White 
Rivers,  striking  the  former  streaiu  in  longitude  102^ ;  but  these  divides 
are  generally  bad  for  wagon-routes,  on  account  of  scarcity  of  water, 
and  it  is  not  certain  that  we  would  by  t^  it  route  avoid  the  sand-hills. 

I  consider  the  north  side  of  the  Niobrara  superior  to  the  other  for  a 
road  for  the  flrst  90  miles  above  the  mouth,  as  the  greater  number  of 
streams  coming  in  at  the  south  side  would  occasion  considerable  detours 
in  gaining  good  crossing-places  and  ai)proaches.  The  portion  of  the 
river  flowing  through  the  sand-hill  region  has  the  sand  on  the  south  side 
generally  foronehalf  a  mile,  blown  away  by  the  wind,  leaving  a  smooth 
route.  On  the  north  side  these  hills  are  crowning  the  very  edges  of  the 
precipices  that  rise  from  the  river,  and  cannot  be  avoided.  The  evi- 
dence that  this  difference  between  the  two  :.ides  was  due  to  the  wind  \a 
very  comj)lete,  and  shows  that  tlie  prevailing  winds  blow  mu(!h  more 
from  the  north  here  than  from  the  south. 

The  Elk  Horn  River  rises  in  about  longitude  99^,  about  2.>  miles  soutli 
of  the  Niobrara  River.    Its  general  course  is  southeast,  and  it  empties 


A. 

"  as  the  Cana- 
o-tlnrtls  of  its 
lands.  In  the 
,  and  is  spread 
luicksaud  and 
rongh  its  mid- 
hat  constantly 
iues. 

i gated  it  with 
ig-house  near 
if  the  timber 
lity  to  defray 
)le  of  furnish- 
i  that  much  of 
)laces  difidcult 
tcky  Mountain 
isin.  The  dis- 
:tend  is  about 

3  Niobrara;  it 
es.    From  the 
le  between  the 
north  side  of 
len  cross  that 
f  the  Niobrara 
3  a  better  ford 
Niobrara,  this 
sand-hills,  and 
de  102O,  when 
■aw  igon-road 
3r  badge  for  a 
undertaking ; 
od  approaches 
ream,  and  the 
ude  102°  west 
reaching  Fort 
in  this  course 
lie  Peak, 
•tie  Hill  River 
ra  and  TVhite 
these  divides 
city  of  water, 
he  sandhills. 
Q  other  for  a 
ter  number  of 
srable  detours 
)ortion  of  the 
the  south  side 
ring  a  smooth 
'  edges  of  the 
ed.    The  evi- 
o  the  wind  in 
V  mu(!h  more 

}>  miles  south 
ind  it  empties 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


43 


into  the  I  latte.    As  far  up  as  I  have  seen  it,  which  is  in  latitude  42o,  it 
hasa  broad  fertile,  and  well-wooded  valley.    Where  crossed  by  Liei- 
enant  ^mith  in  18.. ,,  nearly  south  from  Fort  Randall,  it  is  described  by 
S  '^indy  boUom  ""''  '^''''  ^''''''  '''''^  well-timbered  banks  and 

The  valley  of  the  Loup  Fork  is  broad,  fertile,  and  well  wooded  up  as 
ar  as  the  old  Pawnee  villages,  a  distance  of  about  80  miles.  Above 
his  the  valley  begins  to  grow  sandy  and  wood  more  scarce,  and  about 
he  meridian  of  lOUo  becomes  worthless.  An  occasional  farm-site  coul 
however  be  found  almost  to  its  head.  Near  its  source  it  flows  tliroug 
high  rocky  precipice^  similar  to  those  on  the  Niobrara;  but  its  source 
IS  in  the  open  and  desolate  sand-hills,  a  miserable  region,  impassaWo 
for  ordinary  wagon-trains,  and  by  all  means  to  be  avoided     The  same 

iSbVofrLrsncr '  ^^-^-^^  ^-^^  ^'  ^^^^^-^  ^^--'  -^ 

The  Platte  River  is  the  most  important  tributarv  of  the  Missouri  in 
he  region  under  consideration,  and  its  broad  and  grass-covered Tallev 
leading  to  the  west,  furnishes  one  of  the  best  wagon-roads  of  ft^  ength 
in  America.  From  its  mouth  to  the  forks,  the  bluffs  are  from  two  to  Ive 
miles  from  the  water,  making  an  intermediate  bottom-vallev  of  from 
four  to  eight  miles  wide.  From  the  forks  to  Fort  Laramie  the  bluffs 
occasionally  come  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and  the  road  has  to  cross 
the  points  of  the  ridges.  From  Ash  Holloa  to  Fort  Laramie  the  road 
IS  sometimes  heavy  with  sand.  Fine  cottonwood  grows  along  the  banks 
and  on  the  islands  from  the  mouth  to  Fort  Kearney  ;  from  here  upTtis 
scarce  and  of  small  size.  Cedar  is  found  in  the  raVi'nes  of  the  b  uffs  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  forks  and  above.  The  river  is  about  a  mile 
wide  and  flows  over  a  sandy  bottom.  When  the  banks  are  fuU  iT  s 
about  SIX  feet  deep  throughout,  having  a  remarkably  level  bed ;  but   t 

tt^iw  «"  «•  ^-'  ?^^'^f,ti^"'  f  the  bed  is  so  broad  that  the  water  seldom 
attains  su&cient  depth,  and  then  the  rise  is  of  short  duration. 

initnfn  S'Mif  ^^  6''^'"^'  of  Nebraska  below  the  Yellowstone,  flow- 
ing into  the  Missouri  River,  are  none  of  them  navigable  to  any  reliable 
extent;  and  as  most  of  them  r,  x  from  west  to  east,  their  grSesrirac 
tical  value  is  in  attbrding  the  land  route  of  communication  b<ftwferou;' 
present  western  settlements  and  those  to  be  formed  in  tLmrntaias 

S  jfirVfwf  \'^  "'  '"I'  ""^^  ^r*^«  ^-^  ^^^^1^  t«  traverse  the^tlv- 
vcniug  desert,  for  here  only  are  such  supplies  of  water  to  be  found  as  are 

anTsumlS'?'  '""^  '^  '!f  •^"'^•^*'"  '''''''  ''''^  ^^  cultivated,  ^nd  such 
nf    ,^"P1^"^^  *^t  ^ood  as  the  region  produces. 

PiV/fo  fn.^  •  I  ^^".7^  ,^^  "^'^^^^  running  into  the  Missouri,  that  of  the 
Platte  furnishes  the  best  route  for  any  kind  of  a  road  leading  to  the 
interior,  and  the  best  point  of  starting  is  the  vicinity  of  Omaha  Citv 
An  appropriation  of  $50,000  has  bee.i  expended  on  bricl^es,  &c    on 

n'  totZ'7tT  "'  ''■'  """f  ''''  ""^^'  ^•"I^^' ^^'^t  improvement'remC 
k  fii  V\V\  ^^"^  superior  to  any  route  on  the  south  side  of  the  Platte 
S-  feriv  So  'h  :;?T.'-1  "  good  crossing  of  Loup  Fork,  either  by  bridge 
0  tl  e^strP^m  1  o  r' ' ''?  ^'^^'^t:  the  first  on  account  of  tlie  width 
nml  ti.m-  ')?  ^'-'''^'^   '''"^  t^^  ^''^tter  on  account  of  the  shoals 

Twen  t  five^luM^l'^-^f 'i  ,.^^"  ^'''\}'  ^'''^^  by, reason  of  quicksand 
tofl  l^«H      *''""''«"'J-  '- *^"'^''"-  '-^^'-^^^  probably  inako  a  good  crossing 
10  this  stream,  as  the  place  is  within  the  limit  of  the  settlements     nS 

!™t  oTrmilT;/"  '''  'J'''  ^""^^  ''.'  «f  8-^'«^ter  value  to  the  eni' 
noUinrvb^lil  «.  '^.''f''^*'^"'\'^^^  «"^«  ^^«"^  tJ^e  route  would 

mom    iin.  In  t  1\T^  ?■;?  "'  ^  "''  ^'"^^'^"^^^  ^■^•«'"  the  Missouri  to  the 
mountains,  but  would  not  throughont  have  -  ue  serious  obstacle  all  the 


44 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEI5RASKA   AND    DAKOTA. 


way  to  tbo  bontli  Pass.  Any  i^ute  tlifit  takes  the  south  side  of  the 
1  Ijitte  Kivor  lias  the  South  Fork  to  cross,  (which  is  about  as  difllcult  a 
stream  as  the  Loup  Fork,)  at  a  i)oint  where  bridging  it  or  establishing  a 
terry  is,  at  this  tune,  impracticable;  the  road  then,  along  the  North 
iMMk,  has  bad  places  at  Ash  Hollow  and  Scott's  liluffs,  and  has  to 
cross  the  Laramie  Kiver  and  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte  by  bridges 
oyer  which  the  emigrant  must  pay  toll.  The  route  by  the  north  side 
ot  the  1  latte  crossing  the  Loup  Fork  is,  therefore,  of  iiarticular  value, 
especially  tor  early  travel  in  the  spring,  when  the  streams  are  generally 

1  liave  spoken  of  the  locality  of  Omaha  being,  in  my  opinion,  superior 
to  any  other  as  a  point  from  which  to  supply  the  interior  portions  of  the 
country  along  the  Platte.  This  in  a  measure  d' ,.  ■'  r?  iipoa  uie  improve- 
nients  being  made  of  the  crossing  of  Loup  Fori  ,  a  Present  Nebraska 
City  18  a  ])oint  presenting  almost  as  short  a  roa(:  uch  could  be  made 
quite  so  if  bridges  were  placed  over  a  few  small  streams,  and  which 
could  bo  done  at  an  expense  to  the  General  Government  of  not  more 
than  l:$20,()ao.  A  considerable  distance  of  river  transportation  would 
also  be  saved  to  stores  brought  from  Saint  Louis  by  selecting  Nebraska 
City  instead  of  Omaha.  Besides,  the  first  mentioned  must  always  be  a 
sui)erior  point  from  which  to  supply  Fort  Kearney.  The  cost  of  river 
transportation  to  this  point  is  about  75  cents  per  100  pounds.  The  dis- 
tance from  Nebraska  City  to  Fort  Laramie,  by  the  proposed  improved 
route,  IS  about  ftve  hundred  and  twenty-tiye  miles.  From  Fort  Leaven- 
worth to  Fort  Laramie  it  is  about  six  hundred  and  forty-live  miles. 

The  price  paid  for  transportation,  by  the  Quartermaster's  Department, 
on  these  roads,  is  about  $L50  per  100  pounds  per  hundred  miles. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  transportation  of  stores  to  Fort  Laramie, 
by  the  route  from  Nebraska  City,  would  be  a  saving  over  that  from  Fort 
Leavenworth  of  about  $1.5.)  per  100  pounds.  The  total  expense  from 
Saint  Louis  via  Nebraska  City  would  thus  be  $8.02*  per  100  pounds,  and 
I  shall  use  this  route  in  making  a  comparison  of  the  advantages  ottered 
by  any  route  to  the  north  of  it. 

The  first  place  which  apparently  offers  a  superior  route  is  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Fort  Kandall.  Stores  can  be  delivered  at  this  i)oint  from 
Saint  Louis  at  a  cost  of  about  $2.25  per  100  i)ouii  Is.  The  distance  to 
Fort  Laramie  is  about  three  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  which,  at  the 
rate  of  $1.50  per  100  pounds  per  hundred  miles,  would  give  a  total  cost 
of  about  $7.95  per  100  pounds,  which  would  apparently  indicate  a  sav- 
ing over  the  Nebraska  City  route  of  $0.07  per  100  pounds.  There  are 
two  reasons,  however,  why  this  advantage  is  practically  not  now  attain- 
able: first,  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  liaudall,  as  a  depot  for  supplies, 
men,  and  animals,  is  not  to  be  coaipared  with  Nebraska  City,  tbe  former 
being  in  a  comparatively  barren  country  destitute  of  inhabitants,  and 
where  the  necessary  store-houses  can  only  be  constructed  at  an  expense 
not  less  than  $100,000;  second,  the  great  difficulties  of  the  route  from 
lort  Kandall  west.  That  it  is  practicable  to  take  wagons  along  the 
Niobrara  is  shown  by  our  expedition  in  1857.  The  wagons  were  loaded 
with  about  2,000  pounds,  and  drawn  by  eight  good  mules  to  each. 

Our  time  of  traveling  from  Fort  Laramie  to  Fort  Kandall,  counting 
the  days  necessary  to  stop  to  rest  the  animals,  was  thirty  days.  About 
one.  huT'.drcd  miles  of  this  route  was  through  sand-hiiis,  where  I  do  not 
think  the  ordinary  transportation  trains  could  have  traveled  except  in 
the  8lo\yest  and  most  fatiguing  manner. 

The  route  I  have  already  indicated  on  the  south  side  of  tbe  Niobrara, 
in  my  description  of  that  stream,  \vould  be  preferable  to  tbe  one  wo 


nion,  superior 
portions  of  the 


EXPLORATIONS    IN   NEURASKA    AND    DAKOTA.  45 

tnm^Ied,  o.i  account  of  the  .sand,  but  the  dinicnlrv  of  crossin-  the  river 
NV<    l.l  cuntorbalance  the  advantage  gained  by  so  .ioinr    " 
'J  he  route  b(.twoen  Sioux  City  and  Fort  UanVhdl  is     %erv  ..o<hI  on^ 

iiillSPisii 

S",!™;; -^'S  tns riS" K  ""V"'4 

tl.e  jo,Uc  I  l,„vo  „„l,.  cxannned  ia  part  'b  t- feel  cSo,"  K  iM,",' 
;™.UUoo,„u,.  to  the  co„.e»,l/„"-';Lr„V:,^l?™'ZaTaS 

mfof  /.  '7r  'i?'^'^\H^^'^"-    ^t  ^«  Relieved  that  an/route  wh^ch  keen. 

r„  ^       •  1     ^V "''On  IS  lavorable  to  mi  itarv  movements 

,„a„!'r,dTn "•"'":■""'  "'''  ^"'"^  '■"'  «"PP'.Virtbe  interior.  I  ,.»ve 
AV  ,  t,  1  1  *  ,,  '"*  '^'""''  "f  I'reseiit  occupation  of  the  cou  trvT 
e ve a  ,.,!  ," ,'":,''"'''"«  P"''""""  of  Nebraska  bccoiae  occmS  as    hev 

«  Sins  a      tb"  t  JJinotl  Jf'  '"'"'•''"  i'"""-"""  f™"'  «"™'^  "Ot  'o-J 

a^o  .ow'aCj^^osrw^^  ?™  ^  ii.s  \b^f  rutux^Lt': 


46 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


m 


t  ■• ''■ 


effect  of  natural  cansea  and  tlie  structure  of  tlie  country.  The  same 
routes  now  nuist  used  and  best  adapted  to  tlio  wants  of  military  occu- 
patiou  were  long  before  used  by  the  trader,  the  Indian,  and  tlie  butlalo, 
as  best  adapted  to  their  wants ;  and  when  future  reipiirements  shall 
demand  increased  facilities  of  transportation  and  locomotion,  and  rail- 
roads shall  be  built,  then  they,  too,  will  be  found  near  the  main  routes 
now  traveled  by  the  trains  of  the  emigrant  and  the  army. 

As  I  before  stated,  an  irreclaimable  desert  of  two  hundred  to  four  hun- 
dred miles  in  width  separates  the  points  cajjable  of  settlement  in  the  east 
from  those  on  the  mountains  in  the  west.  AVithout  doubt  these  mountain 
regions  will  yet  bo  inhabited  by  civilized  men,  and  the  communication 
Avith  the  east  will  require  railroads,  independent  of  the  want  of  an  interior 
overland  route  to  the  racitic.  For  this  purpose  the  valley  of  the  Platte 
offers  a  route  not  surpassed  for  natural  gradients  by  any  in  the  world, 
and  very  little  more  is  to  be  done  west  of  the  Missouri  than  to  make  the 
superstructure.  A  cheap  road  for  light  trains  and  engines  could  easily 
be  built,  and  when  settlements  are  formed  in  the  mountains  will  become 
profitable ;  and  the  gold  that  has  been  discovered  there  in  valuable  quan- 
tities may  produce  this  result  much  sooner  than  we  anticipate.  The  Nio- 
brara ap])arently  presents  a  more  short  and  direct  route  to  the  interior 
than  the  Platte,  but  its  natural  features  are  not  so  favorable.  The  direct 
route  from  Sioux  City  to  Fort  Laramie  by  the  Niobrara  would  be,  for  a 
railroad,  about  forty  miles  shorter  than  by  way  of  the  Platte  and  Fort 
Kearney. 

I  do  not,  however,  consider  the  route  by  the  Niobrara  as  impracti- 
cable, but  think  that  the  diiliculties  iu  the  way  of  constructing  it  will 
overbalance  the  advantages  of  being  a  shorter  route  from  the  Missouri. 
If  the  route  be  considered  as  starting  at  the  city  of  Chicago,  thence  via 
Kock  Island,  Omaha,  and  the  Platte  Valley,  the  distance  is  about  the 
same  as  that  by  Dubuque,  Sioux  City,  and  the  Niobrara;  the  one  large 
bend  which  the  former  makes  at  Fort  Kearney  being  counterbalanced 
by  the  number  of  small  ones  of  the  latter. 

A  route  for  a  railroad  to  the  Pacific  from  the  neighborhood  of  Saint 
Paul,  by  way  of  the  South  Pass,  would  keep  on  or  near  the  general 
course  of  the  wagon-road  lately  laid  out  by  Colonel  Nobles  to  the  Mis- 
souri, at  Fort  Lookout,  and  thence  along  the  north  side  of  White  River, 
as  before  indicated. 

Should  a  route  ever  be  required  from  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior to  the  South  Pass,  it  could  be  located  on  a  very  direct  and  prac- 
ticable line,  via  Fort  Kipley,  Lake  Traverse,  and  the  Big  Shyenue,  and 
deserves  examination. 

But  a  route  from  Lake  Superior  west  to  the  South  Pass  would  prob- 
ably not  compete  in  advantages  with   that  examined  by  Governor  i 
Stevens  near  the  49th  parallel.     It  may,  however,  be  questionable 
whether  one  of  equally  as  many  advantages  could  not  be  found  by  i 
proceeding  directly  west  from  the  Bois  de  Sioux  to  the  Missouri  at  Fort ! 
Clark ;  thence  by  way  of  Knife  River  to  the  Yellowstone  River  at  the 
mouth  of  Powder  River.    The  valley  of  the  Yellowstone  then  offers  a  | 
direct  route  west  to  the  mountains,  where  Captain  Clark  crossed  them  | 
in  1806,  and  thence  near  the  route  he  pursued  to  the  Bitter  Root  Valley. 
The  more  direct  route  would  be  dowu  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  River; 
but  the  information  we  possess  of  this  stream  indicates  its  character ! 
through  the  mountains  to  be  one  of  great  difficulty. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NKBRAHKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


47 


s  its  character ! 


CHAPTER  V. 
INDIAXS-MILITAUY  PJSTS-ROUrES  FOR  MILITARY  OPERATIONS,  ETC. 

I  Shall  here  repeat,  with  some  additions,  the  account  of  the  Dakotas 
given  in  my  report  of  explorations  in  18r,5.i  The  Dakotas  are  scattered 
overanimmense  territory,  extending  from  the  Mi^Sp^on  the  east 
to  the  Black  II.lls  on  the  west,  and  from  the  forks  of  the  Pla  to  on  the 

""t,:^':"  ^Ihe^  nSn'  "^^^''-..T'-y  -y  their    il^l^' me  ^^ 
uagnea    oi  "allied,"  and  they  sometimes  speak  of  themselves  as  the 

''Ocheti  Shaowni"  or  "Seven  Council  Flris/'    TheUm'  the  seven 

principal  bands  which  compose  the  nation,  viz  :  "' 

1.  Ihe  Mde-wakan-tonwans,  meaning  <'  Village  of  the  Spirit  Lake  " 
J.  Wah-pe-kutes,  meaning  "  Leaf-Shooters."  ^ 

t  ^Vl'l-Pe-tonwans,  meaning  "Village  in  the  Leaves  " 
4.  Sisi-tonwans,  meaning  "Village  of  the  Marsh." 

ov/ .T  /^ur  constitute  the  Mississippi  and  Minnesota  Dakotas    and 

C^^O   ou  s  "^  tZ  of  .?'  ^''''T'  "J':^^"?ties."    They  are  esUma  ed  a 
0,-uu  souls.    Some  of  these  on  the  Mississii)])!  have  long  been  in  con- 
tact with  the  white  settlements,  and  having  sold  much  of  theiri-inds  to 

c um?aTed'?hTso/l  'r  '-^^'-^"^l^.^-^  -^--y  of  their  former  habis'^ml 
cuitnated  the  soil.  Communities  have  been  formed  which  have  m  ha 
sonie  appmach  toward  civilization  ;  others  of  them  si  1  ve  nri^c  mlh 
by  the  truits  of  the  chase  in  their  'primitive  wildnels  and  hiTon  ^ 
years  occasioned  much  trouble  to  the  settlers  of  Northern  lowT  It  was 
they  who  committed  the  murders  last  winter  on  Spirit  Lake 
tim^s  o!;it^lTvT;T''  (Ya"^^tons,)  "  Village  at  the  End."    These  are  some- 

mSh  of  tit  T^f.  ^^f ''  '"'TV"F  "  ^''''^  ^'^^•^"•"  '^^'^y  '-^re  found  atThe 
,^  ?ni  T?  It  ,  ^  ®'^"^  ^^"^  between  it  and  the  Missouri  River  as  hiel, 
up  as  Fort  Lookout,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  of  theSrissouri  Tl  !v 
are  sirpposed  to  number  3G0  lodges.  Contact  wUh  the  whi?es  has  co7 
siderably  degenerated  them,  and  their  distaucefrom  the  present  buffX 
ranges  renders  them  comparatively  poor.  A  treatyhas  been  mile  wS 
them  by  which  they  have  ceded  most  of  their  hSotLuidted  States 

as  De;il'?TTv  """^^  ^'^"''?"  '^'^'"^^  ^^'^'^r  '-^"d  t^«  Missouri,  as  high  north 
as  i)ev il's  Lake,  number  about  800  lodges,  and  are  spirited  and  warlii.^ 

ir?  ^''^^  T^^  ^'^"^^^  to  the  settler's  in  D^cot^'CiW  4ev 
sflered  severely  from  the  ravages  of  the  small-pox  in  the  winter' of  1856 
d  r  lof  •    ,f  «•»«»  l>ortion,  under  a  chief  called  Little  Soldier,  Hve  in 


iamuel 
,1st 


i: 


i'f 


48 


EXPLORATIONS    IN    NEIJRA8KA    AND    DAKOTA. 


r«'\v  of  tlio  IJi  iiU's,  oil  Wliito  Uiver,  and 


.soiiio  of  tlio  faiiiilioM  coiiiuM'ttMl 


with  tlio  wiiitcs  l.y  iiiarria;,'!',  have  never  plantetl  corn.    Thoy  are  dividetl 
into  s«n«'n  principal  bands,  vi/. : 

I.  (Jnkpapas,  "  they  who  camp  by  themselves."    They  roam  i 


IV\'^  Shyenne  up  to  the  Yellowstone," and  west  to  the  niaek 
hand  Mato  (Jhiipikesa,  or 


•oam  from  the 
ills;  to  tills 


the  Bear's  Kil),  belongs,  who  was  made  by 
General  Harney  the  tirst  chief  of  the  Dakotas.  They  number  about  305 
lodjics. 

L'.  Sihasa|)as,  (Ulaekfeet.)  Haunts  and  homos  same  as  the  Unkpapas 
Ihey  number  Km  lod<,'es.  These  two  bands  have  very  little  respect  for 
the  po\\«'r  of  the  whites. 

3.  Jta/ipchos,  (Sans  Arc,  "  no  bows.")  lioam  over  nearly  the  same  ter- 
ritory as  the  Unkpapas.  They  number  about  170  lodges.  It  is  ditUcult 
to  say  how  these  bands  received  their  present  names;  the  ltazii)chos 
bein^r  as  well  provided  with  bows  as  any  other  band,  and  use  them  as 
skilllully. 

4.  .Minikanyes  or  Miiini-kan-jous,  (meaning  "they  who  plant  by  the 
water.")  They  number  about  L'OO  lodges,  and  roam  i)rincii)ally  froiii  the 
i>lack  Hills  south  to  the  Platte.  They  are  generally  well  disposed 
toward  the  whites. 

o.  Ogalalas  or  Okandandas.  They  number  about  400  lodges,  and  are 
generally  to  be  found  on  or  near  the  i'latte  near  Fort  Laramie.  They 
are  the  most  friendly  disposed  toward  the  whites  of  all  the  Titonwans. 

0.  Sichangns,  (meaning  Burnt  Thighs,)  Brules.  They  number  about 
J80  lodges,  and  live  on  the  jS'iobrara  and  White  ltivers,'and  range  from 
the  Platte  to  the  Shyenne.  They  include  the  Wazazhas,  to  which 
belonged  Matoiya,  (the  Scattering  Bear,)  made  chief  of  all  tlie  Dakotas 
by  Colonel  Mitchell  of  the  Indian  Bureau,  and  who  was  killed  by  Lieu- 
tenant Grattau. 

7.  Oo-he-uon-pas,  (Two  Boilings,  or  Two  Kettle  band.)  These  are  now 
ve;y  Lnuch  scattered  among  other  bands.  They  number  about  100 
lodges.  Some  of  them  are  generally  to  be  found  in  the  neighborhood  of 
I  ort  Pierre. 

The  IJakotas,  on  and  west  of  the  Missouri,  which  includes  all  but  the 
Isanties,  are  the  only  ones  I  have  heard  estimated.  I  should  think 
eight  inmates  to  a  lodge,  and  one-tifth  of  them  warriors,  an  ample  allow- 
ance.   We  would  then  have — 


Name  of  baud. 


Lodges. 


Iliankt,oiiwaii8,(Yai]ktons) 

Iliankt«ii\vaniias,(Yauktouais) 

Unkpapas 

Siliasapas,  (IMackfeet) 

Itazipclios,  (Haua  Arc) 

Mini-kan-jous 

Oj^allalas 

.Sicliauj^iis,  (lirules) 

Oo-h(--iiuii-pas,  (Two  Kettles)., 


mo 

fUO 

165 
170 
200 
4()0 

:wii 

100 


3,000 


luiuates. 


2,880 
(i,  400 
2, 920 
1, 320 
1,  300 
l,(iOO 
3,  (380 
3, 010 
800 


24, 000 


Warriors. 


57() 
1,280 
584 
204 
272 
320 
73(5 
61C 
160 


4, 800 


In  the  summer  the  Dakotas  follow  the  buftaloes  in  their  range  over 
the  prairie,  and  in  the  winter  fix  their  lodges  in  the  clusters  or  fringes 
of  wood  along  the  banks  of  the  lakes  and  streams.  The  bark  of  the 
Cottonwood  furnishes  food  for  their  horses  during  the  winter  snows,  and 


►TA. 

iiilios  coiiiiocttMl 
L'lu'y  aiodivitlo(l 

V  roam  from  the 
Iv  Ilill.s;  totliiH 
lo  was  made  by 
imber  about  3G5 

s  tlio  Unkpapas 
ittlo  respect  for 

*ly  the  same  ter- 

.     It  is  dillicult 

tlio  Uazii)clios 

iid  use  them  as 

lo  plant  by  the 

;il)ally  froiu  tlie 

well  disposed 

lod{>es,  aud  are 
jaramie.  They 
the  Ti  ton  wans. 
,'  number  about 
!ind  range  from 
dias,  to  which 
ill  tlio  Dakotas 
killed  by  Lieu- 

Theseare  now 
ber  about  100 
eighborhood  of 

ides  all  but  the 
I  should  think 
in  ample  allow- 


KXPLORATIONS  IN  NEHKASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


mates. 

Warriors. 

2,880 

57() 

(),  4(10 

1,280 

5>,  y^o 

584 

1,320 

2C4 

i,:5()0 

273 

l,(iOO 

320 

:?,  (i80 

73(5 

3, 040 

61G 

800 

ICO 

4,000 

4, 800 

eir  range  over 
ters  or  fringes 
e  bark  of  the 
ter  suows,  aud 


to  obtain  it  many  Htroams  have  I.. 

their  former  beantifid  groves.     Their  h 


49 

»een  thinned  or  entirely  stripped  of 


the  Indiuis  fiiH...,.  u,7.,n        i  ~'. »'«i;><  are  obtained  by  trartic  with 

DMe  inai.ins  tai  t  lei   south,  who  have  stolen  them  in  New  Mexico  nr 

caught  them  wild  on  the  plains  toward  the  licM^kv  M^ntJus     co.Hid 

erabh,  nu.nbers  are  also  raised  by  themselves.    The  nation  is  o.^ete 

nmst  sk.lltul  and  warlike,  and  n.ost  numerous  in  ouV  torritZ    a  ml 

c.»uld  they  be  made  to  feel  more  confidence  in  their  own  powers   ;oM 

s;;;;t  r^tm  ™i"-,  /'^  -'^^--^'^^  on  horseb!;ckS;^;;:^e 

no  suptrio  s,  a  skill  acciuired  by  constant  practice  with  their  bows  nml 
arrows  and  lances,  with  which  they  succeed  in  killing  theirLame^t  full 
spe(3d.  The  rapidity  with  which  they  shoot  their  a  rows  a.S  the  ace 
mcy  of  their  aim,  rivals  that  of  a  practiced  hand  S  ?l  rrevoTve  ' 
.Notwiths  anding  the  destruction  of  their  numbers  brsmal.no^.uK^ 
cholera  .t  IS  the  opinion  of  some  that  they  are  increa^iir  umbers 
on'the  flintier'"""'"'""'  '''''''  "'"^^  they'mingle  witfuhe  set;iL\nents 

iver,  to  the  Big  Shyenne  of  the  Missouri,  and  to  the  secthm  o  ^-ountrv 
hey  now  occupy  between  the  Platte  and  the  Arkansa^    The  D  tko  is 
hen  lived  on  much  (,f  the  land  now  occupied  by  the  Chi ppewas   uid^^^^^^^ 
(jM,.pewas  at  that  time  inhabited   the  region   betweet'ieS^^^^^^^^^ 
Mane  and  Lake  Winnepeg,  the  Crees,  theirSdlie.s  occu^^^^^^ 

Wind^^r  ;;i''r  '^^'f  ''^  *i!^  ^^^  Ki.is.kad  Jl-wa.!  Sanlc^S^S 

lasVs  ren  n  werl  f  1    Ass.niboin  K.ver.     The  plains  to  the  south  of  the 

ast  s  ream  were  the  scene  of  many  contentions  and  bloodv  combafs 

e     utfr'th  tf  n-itf"  '""'"i"^  i^^'*^-^  ^'^^"^'^'^  than  ofXotTertw^; 
tiioes,  unt  1  that  nation  was  divided  into  two  bodies    orio-in.Hiu.-  in 

;;;' "rtuLdu^Ti,';.',:''"''  ""'if  ■",  !,"»'^  "-"^  i^^siim  e 

mits  CO  tuis  day.     riie  less  i)ower{ul  and  tly  ng  party  took  refuoe  in  fhA 
ro(,ky  precipices  of  the  Lake  of  the  VVoods,  and  k!cei  veTfroi.   tfe  ("l  n 
pewas   he  name  of  Assiniboins,  or  Dakotas  of  the  Uocks  u     er  which 
ame  they  are  now  generally  known  to  the  whites     Thev    ho^vever 
T  e    thT"]?  t'lenise  ves  the  name  Dakotas,  and  speak    ha  Ian  Juage' 
.memies.  '''''  "'  '^^"^^'^^"^  ""^  *^"^"'  always  call   them  Sf or 

Tlie  Assiniboins  then  allied  themselves  with  theChinnewis  and  (>pa« 
and  forced  the  Dakotas  to  abandon  all  the  co  intry  S  S'  i  S^^^^^ 
enne,  which  is  now  regarde.l  as  the  boundary  betwee    these    rbes    ^" 

la.ting  peT  c^rt^  ?  ^^  ^^  'SC    Ui  Jm  "'i^i::f^f' *^  ''"'  "'^ 

t.  rv     'iw  1  V?  ""^  P'H'tion  of  their  lands  is  in  the  British  terri- 

\     <1     ot  w^t  to^^  ^^'7  ''T  I'^^,^ticular  to  inform  us  that  they 

I  ..ow  occu.ry!  '"'''  '''"^^  ''""'^  ""'^  «I'^''«  ^"^'  «t"  ^vhat  they 

'n. —    I,"  1- 

conii 


I  <logs,  of  which  they  h. 
<>(  these  animals  also 


ive 


iparatively  few  horses,  and   rely  largely  on 
great  numbers,  for  t'aiKs[)ortation.     The  flesh 


serves  them  as  food.     The  A 


Dout  4o0  lodges,  or  3,000  souls.     They  suttered 


4  N  D 


ssiniboins  number 
severely  from  the  small- 


50 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


ii.i' 


I)().\  in  I8.">()-'r)7.    Their  country  extends  from  tlie  Ue«l  River  wont  nIonL' 
the  MisHonri  as  far  as  tiie  month  of  the  Milk  River. 


Tlie  AhsarakoH  or  (-row 


H  o(!('Ui)y  the  eonntry  ahont  the  Ydhiwstono 


and  its  hran(;he,s,  heinj;  honmh'd  oii  the  east  l»v  the  Dakot 


as,  south  by 


the  i'hitte,  and  west  l»y  the  dlvidlnfjf  line  between  the  waters  of  the  At- 
huitie  and  I'aeific. 

Tiieir  eonntry  abounds  with  everythinj;  Indian  life  recinircs,  ami 
they  nn^  generally  well  disposed  toward  the  whites,  bnt  have  as  yet 
seen  little  of  them  in  their  country  since  is;{(),  when  the  trappers  were 
HO  numerous.  They  were  then  much  dreaded  by  these  a<lventnrers. 
The  Crows  are  tine  wariiors;  have  plenty  of  horses,  mainly  derived 
from  tralhc  with  the  Flatheads.  They  live  ^^enerally  in  skin  lodges,  and 
number  about  (iOO  lodjics,  or  4,.S0(»  soids. 

.Minnetarres,  or  (Jros  Ventres.  This  is  a  small  band  of  the  Crow 
Nation,  liviny  in  a  vilhifre  of  dirt  lod^jes,  surrounded  by  a  rude  stockade, 
near  Fort  lierthold.  They  raise  corn,  beans,  punii)kins,  iSrc  They 
number  now  about  SOO  souls,  but,  from  a  variety  of  causes,  arci  dimiii- 
ishiiiff. 

The  Arricarees,  or  Ifees,  are  a  branch  of  the  Pawnee  Nation,  from 
which  they  have  become  separated  by  the  migration  of  the  Dakotas 
and  by  these  latter  they  are  both  known  by  the  same  name Pedanis.  ' 

The  Ixeos  live  in  a  villafte  near  Fort  Claik,  in  a  n)anuer  exactly  simi- 
lar to  the  Gros  Ventres,  and  number  about  HIO  souls.  Formerly  they 
were  numerous  and  powerful  and  occu|»ied  a  larjje  \\\h\<n)  at  the  nioutii 
of  Grand  Itiver.  This  was  destroyed  during  the  expedition  under 
Colonel  Leavenworth,  sent  there  in  1  HIT)  or  1.S2U  to  chastise  them  for 
the  attack  on  the  trading  party  of  (ieneral  Ashlev.  The  remains  of 
dirt-lodge  villages  all  along  the  Missouri  attest  how  numerous  the 
Indians  of  this  tribe  must  have  been  before  the  invasion  of  their  lands 
by  the  Dakotas. 

The  Mandans  live  in  a  village,six  miles  above  Fort  Clark,  in  the  same 
nianiier  as  the  Gros  Ventres.  They  seem  to  be  the  last  remnant  of  a 
distinct  tribe  from  any  of  those  around  them.  They  have,  through  the 
agency  of  the  small-pox,  rapidly  diminished  since  they  were  visited  by 
Lewis  and  Clark,  and  now  number  about  1*50  souls.  They  live  in  con- 
stant dread  of  the  diseases  which  white  men  have  been  at  times  intro- 
ducing among  them,  and  the  main  and  oft-repeated  request  which  they 
made  to  the  Indian  agent  when  I  was  there  in  .July,  1850,  ^vas  that  he 
would  keep  sick  white  men  away.  When  I  returned  there  in  Septem- 
ber, and  saw  them  again  a  victim  of  that  scourge,  the  small-])ox, 
brought  among  them  that  year  by  the  steamboat  of  the  rival  company 
to  the  American  Fur  Conipany,  and  saw  the  despair  depicted  on  every 
countenance,  it  made  me  feel  heart  sick  to  think  what  wrongs  these 
poor  savages  have  suffered  from  the  cui)idity  of  my  own  race.  The 
authois  of  this  calamity,  which  visited  all  the  tribes  in  this  region,  are 
fully  exposed  in  the  report  of  the  Indian  agent.  Colonel  Vauglian,  in 
185(]-'57.  *       ' 

Bear's  Eib,  the  Unkpapa,  gave  me  the  following  list  of  persons  that 
died  of  this  disease,  from  tlii-  cause,  in  1850  and  1857,  that  ho  had 
heard  of,  though  the  disease  was  still  at  its  work  of  death  in  some 
parts  of  the  Crow  country : 

Persons. 
J^es ICC 

}Jol»es 1  500 

Big  Head's  band  of  Ihantouwans 30 

Sihasapas 130 


1,  831' 


iver  west  alon^ 


iiH,  iNcc.     They 
iwes,  ani  (liiuiii- 


eath  in  some 


KXPLOUATIOXH  IN  NKHUA8KA  AND  DAKOTA.        51 


<Jr<»s  Vriifrcs  and  MaiKliiiiH 
Absaralios 


.MakiiiH"  a  total  ot  at  least  3,000  .souls. 


KiO 
1,000 

1,  KiO 


tl 


tu 

laty 


iM'fo re  8.101,  bl<nvM  as  tins  the  red  niee  would  soou  disa|)i,ear  •  no  war 
I'-nId  he  so  fatal  to  then..  The  (JovernnuM.t  shouhl,  by  iV  t  , ,  ^ 
humane,  eiur,loy  some  <.oa.petent  person,  at  a  pr,,per  ^ahuy    t    t h  t 

i^;;:^';';;;,;";;':"'"'"^^  ^'"^^'  i.Miians,and  ti..jarrost'u^v;;„e;;::e 

These  threelittle  hands,  the  Cros  Ventres,  Mandans,  and  Rees  are 

as   dwMuli.nf;  away      Th,>y  never  <,an  work  mueh  harm  t      he  whites 

; mdthe.r  n.odeol  I.te  ata  fixed  abode  requires  them  to  be  Z  S 

Ihey  exist  now  rarher  by  sulferanee  of  the   Dakotas  than  by  t lei"  ow  i 

l...uer,  for  the  Dakotas  e<»uld  soon  destniy  them  if  they  cl  ose,  as  thev 

1    ;0     Vll  ''li:;;';  i  "     '^^^^^^^-}^  the  L,>up  Fork,  in'aboutthe    e^i 
IMO.     J    e  Dakotas  find  it  eonvenient  for  themselves  to  permit  the  ox 
.st.mee  of  these  vilh.ijes,  as  their  produce  of  corn,  &Z     rms     va    aWo 
eo.i.modity  of  trade  between  them.  '  -i  ^aiuabio 

The  l»onkas  are  the  small  remnant  of  a  onco  powerful  tribe,  and  no' 
V.'  year  t  .e  mouth  of  the  Xiobraru.     They  are  on  friendly  terms  wU 
.e  Dakotas.     Tlie  (Government  agents  have  lately  eftecidreay 
u  th  tlumi  by  which  a  r.^^ht  to  most  of  their  lands  has  been  purchased 
and  a  reserve  marked  out  for  their  location  on  the  Niobrara  in(l  ronka 
Kivers,  near  Fort  Kandall.    The  treaty  has,  1  believe,  not  ye    been  rat 

iH'il  by  the  Senate.    They  number  about  ~ souls 

llie  rawiiees  were  formerly  one  of  the  most  numerous  and  powerful 
and  warlike  ot  the  Indians  of  the  piairie.  They  have,  thro...  Ii  the 
agency  ot    he  small-pox  and  their  constant  wars  with  the'  l)Sti  and 

exS'llmfT'^S'''''''^"?,^'-'"'^  their  numbers  now  do  not  iSably 
n^.v  wl'  r  1^^  'f ''"P/  ^''^  country  on  the  Platte  below  Fort  Kear- 
ney, and  on  J.oup  Fork.  A  treaty  was  made  with  them  in  the  winter  of 
1^0-,  by  which  they  cedeil  a  large  portion  of  their  lands  to  the  UniLd 
States,  and  agreed  to  retire  to  a  reserve  on  the  Loup  Fork,  where  vvere 

iJrty^t^&r^t^S.""^  '"^"^^^^  ''''''  ''^''^-     ^'-  '^^^^^ 

vJJlt  ^.^-V'""^*!  0^^^'II^V  tli«  country  between  the  Platte  and  Arkansas 
ri'  •^"!l  ""'"^^^  «»^o»fc «0"ls.     These  Indians  have  alwavs  been 

m  er''o  Vs-^'tf  "^:!  '"^*  ""'''''"^^  '""^'^»  ''''^  ^liem.  During  the 
sni iimer  ot  IHot,  while  the  vigorous  expedition  conducted  by  Colonel 
Numner  was  operating  against  them,  a  number  to  the  amount  of  40 
lodges  took  retuge  among  the  Dakotas,  in  the  neighborhood  ot  the  Black 

They  will  probably  unite  with  the  Dakotas  in  the  event  of  auv 

ilu  cTlrthi  '^"^"  %  '',  ""Ir^^  ^^'^"^  ''''  ^^'^^  moral  effec  pro^^ 
•<^^ntrv  \l  .^^1 1^^^^^  1  '^^  ^V^"^^.  ^.^Pe^"tion  through  their  common 
?.  in  f  \h   rUve^  •"[    .^^^^^.^^.^"tility  of  ever  being  able  to  contend 

-I  .ii!ih(.  laepowei  ot  die  united  States. 

■ire  n;'!L\^^v''.\'''"^''"®!,"         Territory  under  consideration,  the  Dakotas 

f  t  .in  ,^^  ^^  ''^ -^^  ^^'^\  have  undergone  the  least  raateri  .1  diminution 

ot  their  numbers  since  their  discovery  by  the  whites.    Thev  are  sHll 

••nmerous,  independent,  warlike,  and  powerful,  and  contain  SiXml 


It :,  '•■■>!■■ 


52 


EXPLORATIONS   IN    NEBRASKA    AND    DAKOTA. 


1'^ 


If  -fff"  f  7 


'm- 


m.,^ 


selves  means  of  prolonged  and  able  resistance  to  further  encroachments 
of  the  western  settlers.  Under  the  present  policy  of  Government,  which 
there  is  no  reason  to  believe  will  ever  be  changed,  these  encroachments 
will  continue  and  new  wars  will  result.  1  do  not  mean  to  say  that  a 
peaceable  adviuice  of  the  settlements  westward  might  not  be  effected, 
but  under  the  operation  of  present  causes  it  will  not.  All  of  these  con- 
flicts end  in  the  discomfiture  of  the  native  races,  and  they  are  fast  melt- 
ing away.  It  is  not,  as  many  suppose,  that  those  dispossessed  retire 
farther  west;  this  they  cannot  do,  for  the  region  to  the  west  of  one  tribe 
is  generally  occupied  by  another  with  whom  deadly  animosity  exists. 
Hence,  when  the  white  settlements  advance  their  frontier,  the  natives 
linger  about  till  disease,  poverty,  and  vicious  indulgence  consign  them 
to  oblivion.  The  present  policy  of  the  Government  seems,  therefore, 
the  best  calculated  that  could  be  devised  for  exterminating  the  Indian. 

The  advance  of  the  settlements  is  universally  acknowledged  to  be  a 
necessity  of  our  national  development,  and  is  jnstitiable  in  displacing 
the  native  races  on  that  ground  alone.  But  the  Government,  instead  of 
being  so  constituted  as  to  prepare  the  way  for  settlements  by  wise  and 
just  treaties  of  purchase  from  the  present  owners,  and  proper  protection 
and  support  for  the  indigent  race  so  dispossessed,  is  sometimes  behind 
its  obligations  in  these  respects ;  and  in  some  instances  Congress  refuses 
or  delays  to  ratify  the  treaties  made  by  the  duly-authorized  agents  of 
the  Government.  The  result  is,  that  the  settler  and  pioneer  are  precip- 
itated into  the  Indian's  country,  without  the  Indian  having  received  the 
just  consideration  promised  him  ;  and  he  often,  in  a  manner  that  enlists 
the  sympathies  of  all  mankind,  takes  up  the  tomahawk  in  defense  of 
his  rights,  and  i)erishes  in  the  attempt. 

It  is  frequently  the  case  that  the  settlers  are  unjustly  charged  with 
bringing  about  these  wars,  and,  though  I  feel  for  the  Indian,  I  cannot 
but  sympathize  with  the  pioneer,  whose  life  is  liable  to  be  sacrificed  to 
the  Indian's  vengeance. 

The  western  settlers  are  now  fighting  the  battle  of  civilization  exactly 
as  our  forefathers  did  on  the  Atlantic  shores,  and  under  circumstances 
that  command  an  equal  amount  of  our  admiration  and  approval. 

VVe  are  in  the  habit  of  looking  on  the  power  of  the  United  States  as 
invincible,  but  it  is  far  from  being  so  regarded  by  the  savages  on  our 
frontier.  Many  of  them  have  never  seen  or  felt  it.  There  the  Indians 
far  outnumber  the  whites,  and,  if  our  sympathies  must  go  with  the  weak, 
they  should  be  with  the  settlers,  who  are  only  able,  after  all,  to  main- 
tain their  ground  by  the  aid  of  the  Army. 

One  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Dakotas  told  me  that  they  had  a  grand  coun- 
cil in  the  sunnner  of  1857,  on  the  North  Fork  of  the  8hyenne,  and  that 
tiieir  hearts  felt  strong  at  seeing  how  numerous  they  were;  that  if  they 
went  to  war  again  they  would  not  yield  so  easy  as  they  did  before.  At 
that  council  they  solemnly  pledged  to  each  otiier  not  to  permit  further 
encroachments  from  the  whites,  and  he  fully  believed  they  were  able  to 
whip  all  the  white  men  in  the  world.  In  truth,  they  are  not  without 
reason  in  thinking  so.  They  have  never  seen  the  whites  except  in  small 
parties,  stealing  through  their  country,  unable  to  resist  them  or  protect 
themselves  from  insolence;  or  they  find  them  shut  up  in  little  trading- 
posts,  where  for  days  they  dare  not,  at  times,  open  the  gates  or  show 
their  heads  above  the  inclosure,  and  where,  whenever  a  band  of  young 
warriors  wish  to  have  a  frolic,  they  go  aiul  shoot  their  dogs,  chickens, 
cattle,  &c.,  break  the  windows,  and  commit  any  other  outrage  their 
fancy  may  suggest,  as  a  <liversion.  They  have  seen  the  Iiulian  agent, 
■(their  father,  as  he  is  called,)  the  direct  representative  of  the  President, 


EXPLORATIONS   IN   NEllRASKA   AND    DAKOTA,  53 

tor  the  power^of  our  Go  ernm^ut     X  unbPr!  ^.f^Vf  "^"'/'"'^  "^  ''''^'^''' 
a  soldier  of  tl.o  Uiiifed  Sf.,tT  a  .^       -^"'»l>ers  <>t  them  have  never  seen 

their  largest  force,  a„,l  hero  1  bSo  !  n  w„„w  make'a,M'^,ri'''S''' 

with  .■ro;;:',"! ''writ '^i^TrouTo..',^ 

iiecess  irv  to  P^fnUiLi.     I       Pr«it.ticable.    In  this  event  it  might  become 
jn_cfM(.vii>  10  estaoiisu  a  temnorarv  nnsif 'ilmi-o  fi.n  ai...«  "w^uiuc 

not  even^l.on  ?ear  the  re^nk^^  ^^^^^^    ^"'''^''  """'^  commanders  .ve  need 

rin  e^,si'irr.?"^f  l'''"^f/'?'"P''^«t««l»"^n-'^  i«  necessarily  slow,  and  chev 
n     n      ri.      '^^^'^1«^'' "•I'lcli  the  least  military  skill  teaches  the  IidS 

iii.«t  "serul  alii  ,  i„  irJa.i'wtu''  l  mS^^^     ?"""""'  """'''  '',»  '"'"""' 


th 


•  ■  wiiites  . 
ill  jJri vino- 


id  thus  spare  the  lives  of 
my  opinion  of  the  best  way  of  bringing  the  Dakotas  to  sub- 


54 


;j : 


'0^ 


EXPLORATIONS    IN    NEBRASKA   AND   DAKOTA. 


mission,  in  tlio  event  of  a  war,  I  tl»iuk  it  my  duty  to  state  that  1  believe 
inany  of  the  eauses  of  war  with  them  might  bo  removed  by  timely  action 
in  relation  to  the  treaties,  which  are  from  time  to  time  made  with  them, 
and  a  prompt  and  faithful  fullillment  of  our  own  part  of  the  stipula- 
tions, and  it  is  to  bo  hoped  that  Congress  will  afford  the  means  of  car- 
rying into  effect  the  treaty  made  by  General  Harney  in  185G,  and  those 
made  by  the  Indian  Bureau  in  1857  with  the  Ihanktouwans  and  Poncas, 
and  that  it  will  provide  liberally  for  those  who  have  been  dispossessed 
of  their  lands  or  impoverished  by  having  their  game  driven  off"  by  the 
approach  of  the  whites. 

1  have  always  found  the  Dakotas  exceedingly  reasonable  beings,  with 
a  very  ])roper  appreciation  of  what  are  their  own  rights.  What  thev 
yield  to  the  ^vhites  they  expect  to  be  paid  for,  and  I  never  have  heard  a 
prominent  man  of  their  nation  express  an  opinion  in  regard  to  what 
was  due  them  in  which  I  do  not  concur.  Many  of  them  view  the  ex- 
tinction of  their  race  as  an  inevitable  result  of  the  operation  of  present 
causes,  and  do  so  with  all  the  feelings  of  despair  with  which  we  should 
contemplate  the  extinction  of  our  nationalitv. 


MEDICAL    REPORT 

By  Dr.  Samuel  H.  MoFiarr. 


Washington,  B.  C,  Jawwarj/ 31,  1858. 

Sir:  I  submit  a  report  of  the  most  important  cases  of  sickness  that 
i-equire(l  medical  treatment  in  the  party  under  your  command,  from 
June  li)  until  December  4,  1857. 

After  the  party  reached  the  Loup  Fork  it  was  necessary  to  remain 
III  camp  tor  a  number  of  days  awaiting  the  an.ival  of  the  escort.    The 
mouth  of  that  stream  was  reached  July  4,  and  we  encamped  near  the 
river  not  far  from  the  town  of  Columbus.    It  was  in  this  locality  that 
the  most  serious  cases  of  iUness  which  occurred  in  the  party  were 
generated.    In  passing  up  the  Tlatte  we  tr£<.veled  principally  at  some 
distance  from  the  stream.     Near  the  river,  and  along  some  of "^its  tribu- 
taries, swampy  districts  of  country  exist  which  might  endanger  the 
health  ol  persons  living  in  their  vicinity  during  the  summer  and  autumn 
1  notuicd  long  marshy  tracts  of  this  kind  overgrown  with  heavy  vegeta- 
tion  aion;r  the  Loup  Fork  at  this  point.     Soon  after  our  encampment  a 
good  deal  ot  bilious  derangement  prevailed  in  the  party,  and  the  pres- 
ence of  muismatic  poisons  was  soon  made  apparent  in  the  occurrence  of 
a  number  of  cases  of  intermittent  fever.    Nearly  all  of  the  party  exne- 
nenced  unpleasant  disturbances  of  health  here.    The  season  had  been 
unusually  wet  and  the  heat  was  extreme.     Vegetation  was  consequently 
developed  very  rapidly,  and  it  was,  therefore,  not  difhcult  to  account  for 
the  early  appearance  of  disease  among  us.     Under  ordinary  circum- 
stances I  would  consider  this  region  as  healthy  as  most  prairies,  but  the 
past  seasons  were  particularly  favorable  to  the  deveIoi)ment  of  malaria. 
All  ot  the  cases,  however,  that  were  treated  here  yielded  readily,  and 
when  we  commenced  our  journey  up  the  Loup  Fork  no  complaint  was 

We  seemed,  however,  peculiarly  unfortunate  in  the  start:  for,  a  few 
(lays  u.ter  we  had  got  finally  under  way,  the  most  serious  case  of  sick- 
ness which  we  had  to  encounter  during  the  trip  commenced.    On  July 
-o,  i\Iay,  a  teamster,  exhibited  the  symptoms  of  fever,  and  it  soon  be- 
eatiie  api)arent  that  this  man  must  suffer  a  long  and  severe  illness  • 
under  the  most  favorable  circumstances  his  chances  for  recovery  would 
have  been  considered  few,  and  the  circunstances  under  which  we  were 
ot  necessity  placed  tended  greatly  to  diminish  those  chances.    Delay 
was  out  ot  the  quesMon,  as  his  case,  if  it  resulted  favorably,  would 
req line  at  least  a  fortnight,  and  we  therefore  placed  him  in  the  best 
situation  that  was  possible  in  traveling,  and  did  all  in  our  power  to 
proinote  his  reciovery.    This  case  was  an  interesting  one  to  the  medical 
practitioner;  it  was  one  of  those  in  which  the  signs  and  symptoms  of 
typhoid  and  ot  remittent  bilious  fevers  were  intimately  blended      De- 
inum  commenced  early,  with  stupor,  diarrhea,  and  that  peculiar  con- 
<iition  of  the  tongue  and  mouth  noticed  in  tvphoid  fever ;  with  tliosf. 
.MHiie  of  the  common  symptoms  of  remittent  fever  were  exhibited,  and 
i i  m"    ^^*?/"'^,«''  ?"'^1  ""t  be  cut  short  by  quinia,  its  violence  was 
gUMtly  modified  by  that  agent.    The  sickness  of  this  man  embarrassed 
our  progress  seriously,  but  after  nearly  three  weeks  of  trouble  and 
anxiety  with  his  case  we  were  gratified  to  note  his  convalescence.    A 


56 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


I'  '■ 


-?l! 


fi'^;- .:■';! 


Pfilr: ' 


^ils''- 


!%,■ 


halt  of  three  days  dnritig  the  most  excited  period  of  his  disease  tended 
fjreatly  to  promote  a  favorable  teriuinatiori.  May  was  hauled  the  entire 
distance  to  Fort  Laramie,  not  beinj?  able  to  perform  any  duty  until  we 
reached  that  point.  On  the  8th  of  August  I  was  attacked  with  bilious 
remittent  fever  myself,  and  can  testify  from  experience  to  the  incon- 
venience from  being  sick  on  the  prairies.  My  attack  was  not  severe, 
and  yielded  in  eight  or  ten  days.  These  and  the  cases  of  intermittent 
were  the  only  cases  of  fever  that  occurred  in  the  party  during  the  season. 
Tlie  country  through  which  we  passed,  up  to  tliis  point,  was  along 
the  Loup  Fork.  That  portion  of  it  most  favorable  to  the  production  of 
fever  is  near  its  mouth.  As  you  approach  the  sources  of  the  river  there 
are  fewer  wet  tracts  near  tlie  stream,  and  the  country  generally  is  not 
so  flat.  1  notice  the  marshes  particularly,  as  that  is  the  only  condi- 
tion observed  which  could  intertere  with  the  henlth  of  the  population 
if  the  country  were  inhabited.  These  are  not  numerous  after  you  leave 
the  mouth  of  the  river  some  distance,  and  there  is  nothing  to  warrant 
the  inference  that  the  country  is  not  highly  favorable  to  health. 

Indeed,  in  most  respects,  this  region,  so  tar  as  heallli  is  concerned, 
may  be  considered  as  highly  favored.    As  you  approach  the  elevated 
regions  near  the  mountains,  the  atmosphere  is  exceedingly  dry  and 
pure.    Much  has  been  said  of  the  favorable  ett'ects  of  a  residence  in 
this  region  upon  persons  laboring  under  i)nlmonary  diseases.    As  this 
far-western  region  becomes  more  generally  known,  I  think  the  subject 
will  attract  greater  attention.     I  think  the  rational  explanation   of 
the  improvement  in  consumptive  cases  that  has  been  noted  in  this 
quarter  is  found  in  the  <lryness  of  the  atmosphere.    Sudden  changes 
of  temperature  here,  if  not  less  frequent  than  in  some  of  our  Eastern 
States,  are  certainly  not  productive  of  the  same  bad  consequences  to 
the  invalid.    The  lungs  of  those  who  are  suftering  with  phthisis  are 
here  free  from  that  constant  irritation  to  which  they  are  subjected  in 
an  atmosphere  loaded  with  moisture ;  and  the  feeling  of  buoyancy  and 
strength  that  is  imparted  encourages  the  invalid  to  make  new  exer- 
tions to  promote  recovery.    A  residence  in  such  an  atmosphere,  com- 
bined with  habits  of  active  exercise,  and  constant  living  in  the  open  air, 
might,  in  some  cases  I  am  sure,  be  productive  of  the  best  results.    An 
intelligent  friend,  now  residing  at  Fort  Laramie,  informed  me  that  in 
his  youth  he  was  attacked  with  phthisis,  that  horrible  disease  being 
hereditary  in  his  family.     He  was  rapidly  declining,  and  went  to  this 
far-western  region  in  hope  flat  the  climate  might  prove  beneficial.    He 
made  his  home  among  the  wandering  bands  of  Indians,  and  avoided 
none  of  the  exposure  incident  to  such  a  life.    He  lay  constantly  in  the 
open  air,  and  took  as  much  exercise  as  possible.    His  health  improved, 
and  in  a  year  or  two  he  was  entirely  restored,  and  is  now  residing  at 
Fort  Laramie  a  strong  anil  healthy  man.     I  have  heard  of  many  other 
cases  similarly  restored.     In  New  Mexico  consumption  is  unknown,  I 
am  informed,  as  a  disease  originating  in  the  country,  where  the  climate 
has  the  additional  advantage  of  being  warm. 

During  the  extremely  hot  weather  that  continued  during  our  journev 
up  the  Loup  Fork,  our  party  suli'ered  very  little  with  diarrhea  or  dys- 
entery. A  number  of  cases  of  the  former  occurred,  but  only  a  lew 
required  any  treatment,  and  but  a  single  case  of  dysentery,  which  was 
mild.  After  reaching  Fort  Laramie,  those  who  hail  been  sick  rapidly 
recovered,  and  whcu  wc  left  that  post  all  of  the  party  were  in  excelleut 
health. 

During  the  fine  weather  that  continued  for  a  few  weeks  in  the  bo- 
ginning  of  the  fall  no  cases  of  sickness  occurred.    In  October  the  weather 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  NEBRASKA  AND  DAKOTA. 


57 


became  inclenieut,  and  was  very  cold  and  wet.    During  our  trip  down 
the  Niobrara  no  complaint  was  heard,  except  in  some  chronic  cases 
which  were  somewhat  aggravated  by  tlie  bad  weather  and  exposure 
and  when  tlio  party  reached  Fort  Kandall  all  were  in  good  health     Sev- 
ens of  the  soldiers  had  suffered  from  scurvy  during  the  summer;'  these 
improved  during  the  trip  down  the  Niobrara,  along  which  stream  we 
ouml  an  abundance  of  plums  and  grapes.    After  leaving  Fort  Randall, 
(Nov^ember  i,)  the  members  of  the  party  were  attacked  with  influenza 
and  this  disease  prevailed  during  the  entire  trip  from  Kandall  to  Leav- 
enworth, and  only  four  or  five  members  of  the  party  escaped  an  attack. 
Some  ot  the  men,  who  were  much  exposed  to  the  inclement  weather  that 
wo  experienced  on  the  trip,  suffered  severely,  and  at  times  a  sufficient 
number  were  not  off  of  the  sick-list  to  carry  on  the  train  propertv     All 
recovered,  however,  and  when  we  reached  Leavenworth  the  partv  was 
in  good  health.    Below  is  an  enumeration  of  the  most  important^cases 
treated  during  the  season.    Many  trifling  cases  occurred  of  which  no 
note  was  taken. 


Diseases. 


Intcriniltcnt  fever..'..  . 

IMlious  remittent 

Diarrhe.i 

Dysentery 

Gonorrhea,  acute 

Orchites 

Gleet 

Chronic  cystitis 

Diabetes 

Granular  conjunctivitis 

Tarsal  ophthalmia 

Intiuenza 


Respectfully, 


Results. 


Recovered. 

Recovered. 

Recovered, 

Recovered. 

Recovered. 

Recovered. 

Recovered. 

Recovered. 

Improved. 

Improved, 

Recovered. 

Recovered. 


Lieut.  G.  K.  Warren, 

Topographical  Engineers. 


Samuel  H.  Moffitt, 
Physician  to  Expedition. 


9,  and  avoided 


